Whirlpool W10447783 Bearing Installation Tool OEM Part

After ignoring for a couple of years that the bearings were bad on our Whirlpool Cabrio washer and just closing the door to the laundry room, it started slinging grease underneath during the spin cycle. Knowing that the cost to call out a repairman would be close to the cost of a new washer, I decided that it would be a nice Saturday project after reviewing AppliancePartsPros’ repair video. The bearing & tub seal kit and bearing installation tool arrived in two days. I’ve done a lot of self-repairs over the years by following repair videos and I have to say AppliancePartsPros’ video for this repair is one of the best I’ve used. I simply took my tablet to the laundry room and followed the video step-by-step. The repair is pretty involved but doable for anyone who wants to tackle it. The washer is now quiet and I wonder why I waited so long to repair it. Here are a few pointers based on my experience: 1) Since the bearings had been bad for a couple of years, our drive shaft was in pretty bad shape. I used the jack and 2x4 method shown in the video to remove the tub. However, after jacking up the tub to the point that the tub bottom was flush with the bottom of the jack, the tub still had not popped free. I realized that if I tried a 1x4 instead of a 2x4 to give me a little more jacking range the 1x4 would break. I took one of the bearing seating parts from the bearing installation tool and balanced it on top of the drive shaft, and balanced the jack on top of the bearing seating part, and the tub popped free after just a few more turns on the jack. 2) When installing the bearings with the bearing installation tool, make sure you crank it down until you can’t turn the nut anymore. I am always worried about tightening too much, so I turned the nut to where the lower bearing was seated well but not until I couldn’t turn the nut anymore. When attempted to install the drive shaft, I couldn’t seat it properly against the upper bearing. So I knocked out the drive shaft and reseated the bearings, this time turning the nut until I couldn’t turn it anymore. The drive shaft easily seated properly after doing this. 3) Before disconnecting the recirculation hose at the top of the tub, make sure you remove the recirculation hose clamp that is about halfway down the recirculation hose. You will have to remove the back of the washer to get to the clamp. I didn’t and when I pushed the recirculation hose out of the way while struggling to remove the tub, I cracked the recirculation hose just above the clamp. Of course AppliancePartsPros had me a new hose in two days. 4) After you finish the repair, make sure you run the automatic diagnostic test to make sure everything is working properly. It’s implied but not explicitly stated in the video. I thought about skipping it but went ahead and ran it. That is how I found out I cracked the recirculation hose. If I had not run it I would have had a laundry room full of water with the first load of clothes. As it was, it wasn’t too much to clean up.

I ordered the spin bearing replacement kit and the recommended tool. I recruited a friend of mine to help me. By the way, we are both women, (age 63 & 55) our husbands were not available to do the job and I (the 63 yr old) was adamant about not calling a repair man! I had never repaired a washing machine before but I have done other repair jobs, I like a challenge and with all the YouTube videos available I felt confident that we could do the job. We watched 3 videos total, one would skip a step and another would not explain things so we could understand it. One video showed to put lubricant on the bearings and another did not. (We did put lubricant on them.) The most difficult step was getting the tub out - when the video says to use a 2x4 board with the jack, don’t use a 1x4, it will break. When the video says not to tighten the bolt too tight don’t tighten it too tight - it will break. One video said to put the BOTTOM bearing on the tool, then put the washer on the tool, (instead of putting the washer in by itself under the spacer) then put these parts on the all-thread of the tool. This will keep the washer straight - this worked perfectly. The spacer was actually off center but the shaft straightened it without needing to re-do that step. We could have used a little more muscle doing some of the repair but we managed. It took us about 8 hours but 3 hours of that was was searching for tools and cutting the 2x4 to use to get the tub out. If we had to do it again I think we could do it in 2 hours or less! My machine purrs like a kitten now! I used my previous Maytag washer and dryer for 18 years then passed it on to a young married couple. Not sure if it is still working for them or not. I was a little surprised when I had problems with my current machine that is only 4 years old. BUT the first machine was used for 2 people and my current one was used doing laundry for 12 people for the past 6 months. Two families (our good friends) lost EVERYTHING in Harvey (the flood), therefore my machine was used every day! I am very pleased with my Maytag Bravos XL washer and dryer AND I am very pleased that we were able to repair it WITHOUT calling on the repair man or our husbands!!

This repair took a long time mostly because I think I had every problem that could happen. First it took awhile to pop open the top of the machine. Once it was open the piece covering the top of the inner tub came off easy. After removing the adjuster and the two plastic hub pieces under it the inner tub would not come out easy so I used a small bottle jack and a 2/4 with a flat piece of metal between the 2/4 and the jack ( I tried with out the piece metal first and the jack split through the 2/4). The inner tub finally came out. I tilted the washer back and removed the stator cover like like on the video with a screw driver and allen wrrench then carefully removed the stator and all the wires connected to it. I unscrewed the nut holding the old bearing with an adjustable Wrench and pair of pliers. Using a hammer I pounded the old shaft out and then using the metal rod that came with the bearing installation tool and a hammer I carefully knocked out the upper tub seal. I put the washer back upright and then again using the hammer and rod tapped out the lower tub seal. Using the bearing installation tool I was able to seat the upper and lower seals. Like in the installation video which I re-watched for every step while doing this job the new seals seated just right when I slid the new bearing in there was a 1/8 inch space to screw the nut onto it. After the new seals and bearing was installed I reconnected the wires onto the stator and installed it along with the plastic shield that goes over it. (This was very difficult). After putting on the stator cover I untitled the machine. I then installed the new seal after packing it with grease and applying the glue around the outer side of it by using the piece of pvc pipe that came with the installation tool and a block of wood to pound the seal in place. I cleaned up the excess grease and put more glue over the seal then put the inner tub back in. I put the two basket hubs in and then put the basket cover on and reconnected the hose to it. Then I put the addjitator back on and the cap over it’s bolt. I put the top back on and waited close to 24 hours for the glue on the tub seal to dry before doing a wash. When I did a wash everything worked and the washer runs like new and is a lot quiter.

First an up date on my last submission about my Whirlpool dryer repair. it turns out that appliancepartspros.com was right all along. there was a thinpad of my wife's in the outlet side of the blower between the blower, and the 4" outlet on the back of the dryer. I checked all areas of the dryer duct and found nothing. I found this by removing the blower and looking into the outlet of the blower. I'm happy to report that the dryer works perfectly now. unfortunately I didn't need any of the parts I bought. Now onto the Whirlpool washer. I ordered the bearing and seal kit and the tool to install the bearings. first the video that was sent as a link with my receipt to my email address was great. I will say that the machine in the video was older than my machine. I have a Whirlpool Cabrio platinum. to open the top of my machine was different than the video. With mine, I had to remove screws on the hinges on the back of the machine, then move the top of the machine forward to release it from the hooks that hold it down, and then tilt it up and it hinges back like the video. my machine only has a nub of an agitator, unlike the full size one in the video... however it comes off with one bolt under the center cap like the full size one. all other steps were just like the video. I will say that a had to pound very hard on the shaft to remove it and the seal. in the video it didn't take much effort to get it out. also when I installed the bearings I used the tool, and tightened the tool until it stopped. It felt like I would break it if I tightened anymore. it was obvious that the lower bearing was in all the way, so I removed the tool and I could tell that the top bearing was not in all the way because the sleeve and small spacer were loose in-between the two bearings. so I reinstalled the tool and tightened it again and the top bearing must have been slightly cocked and it now started to move into place and the tool as it was moving into place was easy to tighten again. this time when it stopped and I removed the tool I could tell it was seated all the way because the sleeve and small spacer were tight against each other. The only thing that I did differently was the amount of sealant on the seal. after installing the seal in the video he said to put extra sealant on the outer edge of the seal but I think it was to much. in the video he got sealant close to the lip of the seal where it rides on the shaft. I think it might make the edge of the seal ridged from the excess sealant instead of pliable. so I did put extra but I kept it away from the lip of the seal. I did wait the 24 hours that was recommended in the video for the sealant to dry. And I'm happy to report that the washer works perfectly and back to silently. special thanks to Appliancepartspros.com !

I bought the bearing/driveshaft repair kit, along with the specialized tools that are needed. These are OEM replacement parts, not cheap knockoffs. Please note that this is a two-person repair unless you are Hercules. It is also a two-day repair, because after the bearing, driveshaft and seal are in, you must apply a sealant that has to dry for 24 hours before final reassembly can take place. This project is so labor-intensive that if you find a repairman, they will probably tell you to just buy a new machine, as it it will be cheaper. However, if you do it yourself, you will save $500+ in labor. It's not complicated, more time-consuming than anything. Just watch the videos first and make sure that you have ALL of the necessary tools. These include a small sledge hammer, a small scissors jack from a car, a piece of wood to put across the lip of the tub to raise it up off of the old driveshaft, the parts kit, and the specialty Maytag/Whirlpool tools, which are necessary to remove and reinstall the bearings. Please note that I could not install the new driveshaft into the new bearing without putting a thin film of grease around the driveshaft first. It's not ideal, you want a press fit, but the driveshaft would not push through the bearing without it, even though I was striking a piece of wood on top of the driveshaft with a small sledgehammer. I also purchased the Washer Basket Hub, just in case, but as it turned out I really didn't need them. They are a couple of nylon gears that go beneath the washer plate, which are pretty easily removed anytime. I put them in anyway, as mine were a little bit worn, but they may not be needed. All in all, I would do the project again. It was too good and expensive a machine to throw away over this repair. Just have a partner, watch the video along the way and above all be patient. All told we probably put in 4-5 hours of labor over two days.