Whirlpool W10435302 Bearing And Tub Seal Kit OEM Part

After about 6 months of use with our Whirlpool Cabrio washing machine it started to sound extremely loud in the spin cycle, we should have called Whirlpool at this point to have it looked at under warranty. Fast forward 5 years later our loud washing machine ended up leaking out the bottom, we had a local service company come out to take a look at doing the repair and they quoted $800 to replace the outer tub assembly. I was not going to pay $800 and figured that most likely we would purchase a new washing machine. After browsing the AppliancePartsPros website and speaking with my father I determined that the problem was a bad bearing which eventually caused the seal to fail, the bearing was the culprit of the loud noise and the failed seal caused the leak. I found that the bearing and tub seal kit included the bearings, seals, shaft and everything I need for around $65. After reading the DIY stories I found that this repair was not for the faint of heart and I needed to determine if I wanted to spend the time to tackle the repair or go ahead buy a whole new washing machine. I decided to go ahead with the repair. I ordered the part Friday afternoon and received on Saturday - Wow! The repair is definitely not for the novice and honestly I could not have done the fix without my father's assistance as he is very technically inclined. We did the repair over 2 days and we probably put 6+ hours into the fix, if we were to do it again we would probably would be able to do it in 3 hours. I have to admit I was a bit nervous once turning on the washing machine that it would be louder than ever or that it would instantly leak. We must have done a good job as my wife said the washing machine is quieter than the day we bought it and she can't believe she put up with the loud noise for so long. Thanks so much AppliancePartsPros it was truly a great experience working with you and saving me $750 in the process. Patrick - Orlando, FL

After ignoring for a couple of years that the bearings were bad on our Whirlpool Cabrio washer and just closing the door to the laundry room, it started slinging grease underneath during the spin cycle. Knowing that the cost to call out a repairman would be close to the cost of a new washer, I decided that it would be a nice Saturday project after reviewing AppliancePartsPros’ repair video. The bearing & tub seal kit and bearing installation tool arrived in two days. I’ve done a lot of self-repairs over the years by following repair videos and I have to say AppliancePartsPros’ video for this repair is one of the best I’ve used. I simply took my tablet to the laundry room and followed the video step-by-step. The repair is pretty involved but doable for anyone who wants to tackle it. The washer is now quiet and I wonder why I waited so long to repair it. Here are a few pointers based on my experience: 1) Since the bearings had been bad for a couple of years, our drive shaft was in pretty bad shape. I used the jack and 2x4 method shown in the video to remove the tub. However, after jacking up the tub to the point that the tub bottom was flush with the bottom of the jack, the tub still had not popped free. I realized that if I tried a 1x4 instead of a 2x4 to give me a little more jacking range the 1x4 would break. I took one of the bearing seating parts from the bearing installation tool and balanced it on top of the drive shaft, and balanced the jack on top of the bearing seating part, and the tub popped free after just a few more turns on the jack. 2) When installing the bearings with the bearing installation tool, make sure you crank it down until you can’t turn the nut anymore. I am always worried about tightening too much, so I turned the nut to where the lower bearing was seated well but not until I couldn’t turn the nut anymore. When attempted to install the drive shaft, I couldn’t seat it properly against the upper bearing. So I knocked out the drive shaft and reseated the bearings, this time turning the nut until I couldn’t turn it anymore. The drive shaft easily seated properly after doing this. 3) Before disconnecting the recirculation hose at the top of the tub, make sure you remove the recirculation hose clamp that is about halfway down the recirculation hose. You will have to remove the back of the washer to get to the clamp. I didn’t and when I pushed the recirculation hose out of the way while struggling to remove the tub, I cracked the recirculation hose just above the clamp. Of course AppliancePartsPros had me a new hose in two days. 4) After you finish the repair, make sure you run the automatic diagnostic test to make sure everything is working properly. It’s implied but not explicitly stated in the video. I thought about skipping it but went ahead and ran it. That is how I found out I cracked the recirculation hose. If I had not run it I would have had a laundry room full of water with the first load of clothes. As it was, it wasn’t too much to clean up.

Bought the bearing and seal kit and installation tool. I watched many videos on doing this job. I have pretty good mechanical skills and knew I could do it. Well....in the short run I got it done in about 7 hours plus I had to buy a 1/4" hex socket (set) to get enough leverage to break the bolt loose. Long story... It took over an hour just to get the lid open. The Maytag does not open by popping the front clamps loose. Finally went and searched for Bravos lid release and it has to be done by the rear, not shown in any videos. Next the screws holding the agitator down must have had lock tight on them, removed slow and easy. The tub kept hanging up when pulled but finally came out. The bottom counter weight hex bolt also must have had lock tight also, need the socket as mentioned above. Got to the shaft, the retaining bolt from the factory was loose. Then I had to beat it silly to get the shaft out. Same problem with the upper bearing, it was rusted. Bottom bearing came out easily. I cleaned up the grease and gunk from the bearing seats. It took 5 attempts, using the bearing seat tool, to seat the upper bearing down far enough to get enough threads on the shaft to get the retaining bolt on . Each time I seated the bearing it was tight and I didn't want to over tighten it. Each attempt did seat it a little deeper. This doesn't make sense, but it happened. Then the seal didn't seat as deep as the videos show, but I was committed to the depth I had. I wonder if the was a little more depth I could have seated the top bearing (shaft was seated on top bearing). The seal was in the seat about 2/3 to 3/4 of the depth. Considering it is glued in, I hope/expect it will work. My machine is only three yeas old. There may have been a factory defect in the installation of the top bearing/seal causing the bearing to rust and leak grease. The top bearing seat may have been defective, or the shaft may not have been tight (loose nut). The rust may have distorted the upper seat causing my problems seating the top bearing. Well it has done two loads of laundry now and is quiet. hopefully I don't have anymore problems with due to the top bearing. appliancepartspros.com video was really helpful. the only one to show using a strap to support the top when opened. I used one S hook and anchored (tied) one end of a piece of rope to the lid and the S hook to the frame.

I ordered the spin bearing replacement kit and the recommended tool. I recruited a friend of mine to help me. By the way, we are both women, (age 63 & 55) our husbands were not available to do the job and I (the 63 yr old) was adamant about not calling a repair man! I had never repaired a washing machine before but I have done other repair jobs, I like a challenge and with all the YouTube videos available I felt confident that we could do the job. We watched 3 videos total, one would skip a step and another would not explain things so we could understand it. One video showed to put lubricant on the bearings and another did not. (We did put lubricant on them.) The most difficult step was getting the tub out - when the video says to use a 2x4 board with the jack, don’t use a 1x4, it will break. When the video says not to tighten the bolt too tight don’t tighten it too tight - it will break. One video said to put the BOTTOM bearing on the tool, then put the washer on the tool, (instead of putting the washer in by itself under the spacer) then put these parts on the all-thread of the tool. This will keep the washer straight - this worked perfectly. The spacer was actually off center but the shaft straightened it without needing to re-do that step. We could have used a little more muscle doing some of the repair but we managed. It took us about 8 hours but 3 hours of that was was searching for tools and cutting the 2x4 to use to get the tub out. If we had to do it again I think we could do it in 2 hours or less! My machine purrs like a kitten now! I used my previous Maytag washer and dryer for 18 years then passed it on to a young married couple. Not sure if it is still working for them or not. I was a little surprised when I had problems with my current machine that is only 4 years old. BUT the first machine was used for 2 people and my current one was used doing laundry for 12 people for the past 6 months. Two families (our good friends) lost EVERYTHING in Harvey (the flood), therefore my machine was used every day! I am very pleased with my Maytag Bravos XL washer and dryer AND I am very pleased that we were able to repair it WITHOUT calling on the repair man or our husbands!!

Firs off; I was impressed by how fast I got my parts... I placed my order the morning of Tuesday April 18 2017 and received them the next morning!!!!!!!!!!!!!! How was my repair? first of all; for me, this was a one time deal for who knows how long so I did not buy the installation tool, not needed... unless you are planing on being a washer repair person. In my case... the old top bearing came out with the shaft when I hammer it out from the bottom; then I used the old shaft to hammer out the old bottom bearing. Installation the bottom bearing has to be pressed or hammered in, the top one goes in just fine... I hammered my in using a 36mm. socket (in case you don't have such tool, check with your local auto part store, see if they have a loaner set of axle nut sockets, in that set you'll find a 36mm or close enough). you'd want to press or hammer on the out side of your bearing. the ring that goes in between the tube spacer and the bottom bearing has to be held centered (you can use a round piece of wood or some thing round that can fit through the center hole of your bearing, heck you might have a hot dog in your fridge, use it if it works) how long did it take? I'm not a washer repair person, so it took me long enough. through the entire repair I felt like I had to take my time to do it safely. I finished my repair and my washer is working like new!. And because I saved $100+ by not getting the installation tool, I bough a brand new microwave oven. here is another money saver. www.partsgeek.com for your auto parts needs.