Whirlpool W10853723 Water Inlet Valve OEM Part

As a Mechanic, I did the common sense approach: INITIAL OBSERVATIONS & CHECKS: - Unplug Machine & check inlet water hose connections for leaks and signs of hose failure; - Remove back panel & inspect for water presence at all hose connections, pump, bottom of basket (bottom center of basket where the main motor, shaft bearing, and tub seal is located), dispensers, bottom of wash basket, water injector area, look everywhere where there is a hose connection and where water flows... - Inspect for rust as this indicates excessive water in one spot; also calcium in water leaves a white residue over time so look for the white scaly runs on the paint on inner panels that leads to the rust spots - Inspect to ensure all hoses and wires are connected and nothing is loose INITIAL OBSERVATIONS: - There was a disconnected red power wire one of the pumps that weren't connected but just hanging there (we had movers move our household goods and appliances a few years ago and probably came off during the 900 mile trip from vibrations in a semi-truck trailer or mishandling) - RUST around dispensers especially soap dispenser; RUST around the ring on the bottom of the top panel and mostly near clear plastic water injector; RUST at left side panel on the bottom where white calcium run marks on a panel lead to the rust spot; TEST CYCLE & MORE OBSERVATIONS: - With back panel off and water cleaned up, plugged power cord back in, loaded washer with clothes and started normal cycle using WARM water setting (Warm gets equal pressure from both hot and cold water electric solenoid valves); This machine has electric water inlet valve so, WARM water setting will help pinpoint the concern to a failing water valve - Observed the entire wash cycle with flashlight laying on the floor (DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING) - No hoses were leaking but the water was starting to drip onto the floor at front left corner during the filling cycle (where the water gushes in sideways from the tub port (not the injector port) - there are 2 ways water comes in (normal); one at clear plastic water injector in back under lid and the second inlet is at the top of the wash basket near the bleach dispenser (built into the wash basket) where the water rushes in sideways spraying directly onto clothes (this is how the machine is designed); however, the water was coming in very fast sideways from the basket water inlet port causing splashing onto the glass lid bottom and some to spray on the top of the basket and forming drips onto the glass lid (too much pressure); the drips were excessive and dripping from the glass lid to the soap dispenser ring causing the water to run between the soap dispenser ring and run under the top panel and run down the front and front left side inner panel of the machine where the calcium run marks and rust had formed. Note the dispensers are not sealed to the top panel so, water can go under them. - Also noticed where the clear plastic water injector is located, there was excessive water dripping from the panel ceiling around the injector and was also running around the inner top panel circular metal lip which was also rusting with flaking paint from excessive moisture - CONCERN: Excessive uncontrolled water pressure which indicates a bad INLET WATER VALVE (excessive water pressure) DIAGNOSTICS: - Unplug the power cord from the machine - MARK Hot and Cold locations on the panel near the existing inlet hoses so you know where hot and cold is before removing the hoses; Remove and drain the washer inlet hoses from the back of the machine into a bucket (need new hose washers if your hoses are less than 5 years old, at 5 years replace your hoses and washers like I did) - Remove 3 screws in back from the main control panel - Lift control panel housing off and unplug main white wire (mark the location where it goes) - Remove top screws from left and right green hinge on the back - The water inlet valve is BLUE and has numerous colored plastic electrical connections to the water valve solenoids; Take a picture of the connections for later reference and number the electrical plugs on the wires and the connector at the solenoids so you know exactly where everything goes when you reinstall the valve. - Disconnect the wire connections after marking (DON'T REMOVE THE 2 SCREWS YET SECURING THE BLUE VALVE, WAIT UNTIL WATER HOES ARE DISCONNECTED FROM THE BOTTOM SIDE) - If you have an OHM tester, test each individual 2 prong solenoid on the valve touching black tester probe to one prong and the red to the other prong of the single gold solenoid, write down the reading. Do this for all male 2 prong connectors on the old valve and record the reading; compare to the new valve and I'm sure you will notice the numbers on the new valve will be way different than the old valve (Mine was the tiny temperature switch that had failed along with a stuck solenoid causing uncontrolled water pressure); The solenoids can fail mechanically internally (not be able to move) and still have the same OHM reading as a new valve. - Tape the glass washer lid shut (or remove it if you want) to the top washer panel in the front so it doesn't come open when you flip the top panel up to expose the underside hose connections to the valve - Move the machine close to a wall where the top panel can rest when lifted to expose underside; Slide the top panel towards (after hinge screws removed) you from standing at the front of the washer to release it from the retaining hooks, then lift to a 90-degree angle and rest against the wall - Mark all dispensers and mark hose connections on the underside of the lid so the hoses get returned to the same location, otherwise you may end up getting bleach during soap cycle and fabric softener during soap cycle...... TAKE A PICTURE for reference after marking - Squeeze ears of hose clamps with pliers to loosen and move clamp back onto elbow portion of connection, gently pull the hose off nipple; continue until all hoses removed - Put the top panel back down, remove 2 screws securing "OLD" Blue inlet water valve, pull inlet valve straight out, install "NEW" inlet water valve and retaining screws, reconnect electrical connections where they originated - open lid again, reconnect water lines, water injector, ensure hoses are pushed on all the way and clamps are secure evenly around hose connections; put the lid down and push back into position - reconnect wires and assemble parts in reverse order (Double check ALL connections, look at your photos where everything originated and return to original position) - Install new hoses or washers paying attention to where Hot and Cold hoses go, tighten inlet water hoses hand tight (righty tightly, lefty Lucy); mark a dot after hand tight at 12 O'Clock position on metal hose ribbed coupling; then use pliers and watch your mark when tightening until it moves to the 8 O'Clock position, this means the rubber washer is properly crushed and sealed at 2/3 past hand tight- DON'T OVERTIGHTEN! or WASHER WILL TEAR and LEAK! - SLOWLY turn Hot and Cold water back on, check for leaks at hose connections - Run a test load of clothes and observe for leaks at hoses and inside the machine at all connections, if all goes well, re-install back panel and return washer to its resting position - VERY IMPORTANT: LEVEL THE WASHER IN ITS RESTING POSITION ACCORDING TO THE OWNERS INSTALLATION MANUAL (regardless of whether or not it was leveled during installation, CHECK IT) ENJOY! you just saved yourself hundreds of dollars on a service call. Pat yourself on the back and SMILE : ) BONUS: -I sanded down all the rusted areas to bare metal where there was rust around the dispensers (removed all dispensers), water injector, the bottom of the top panel and painted all rusted areas with Appliance Epoxy Paint and let it dry for 24 hours before reassembly. Looks great and hope to enjoy another 5 years OHMS TESTER: - tester is not really necessary but, helpful. If you are getting excessive water pressure symptoms like I described, overfilling dispensers

Valve replacement was the only option, this is a non-repairable item. I found a video that showed how to replace this valve - more of a generic video not specifically for my model, but close enough. The big difference was how the top of the washer released for access, two screws on the back hinge plate need to come out and the top pulls forward to allow it to tilt up. Unplug your washer and turn off the water valves, put a rag on the floor to catch water and remove the water hoses from the machine. Lifting the top open the valve discharge hoses are under the top. Four hoses with spring-type water hose clamps holding them on. Take a picture with your phone for later reference. Remove them, be ready for some water spillage. Top back down - then three screws on the backside holding the control panel to the top, roll that open and gently set it aside. Take a picture of your valve connections with your phone for later review, not likely you'll mix them up but better safe than sorry. Unplug the six valve connectors and the thermistor connector. Pull the power cord assembly from it's holder and move it aside. My valve had place for three screws holding the valve in place but only two were installed. Remove these then lift the valve from the washer. Reinstall in the reverse order, valve and two or three screws, power cord, six valve connectors, and thermister connector. Double-check with your phone picture for the color code on the connectors. Roll the control panel back on and tighten the screws. Top back up and connect the 4 hoses. Top back down and tighten it down if you have the 2 screws on the back like mine to allow the top to open. Hook up the water and power and drain hose and take it for a spin. It's as simple as it sounds. Be sure to check for leaks.

I did a diagnostic check. Which shows me every step in a complete wash cycle. At this point I could see the water spilling out from the dispensers. Which lead me to the valve diverter. One of the solenoid was hot, so I put a meter on the solenoid and new that it was not actuating correctly.

Replaced the water inlet manifold.

Purchased and installed above part.