Paul for Model Number 66513429k701 Thanks again for the help already. I've asked a couple of questions in the heater section and it would seem like you're recommending replacing my circuit board. But, prior to ordering this part, I'd like to follow up with a couple more questions. I ran a diags by doing heated dry, high temp (3 times). It ran through and I think on step 5 and 9 the clean light came on for 5 seconds (which I think means everything is ok. The clean light did not blink on any other stages which makes me think there isn't any errors. Maybe I'm just going crazy but here's my logic/question... The water at the tap is about 110 and probably 105 when the wash cycle begins as it takes a bit of time to get to hot water (it may even be a bit less as the rinse cycle takes 20 min or so. After the wash cycle has begun with the High Temp option turned on and I've waited about 30 to 40 min, the water temp is about 95 degrees. The heating coil does not feel as if it's been on when I touch it. This is why I believe there is an issue. I'd expect the temp to be around 120 at some point during the cycle. Is there another magic keystroke I should be doing (like heated dry and normal wash (twice))? I've ran that and i'm not seeing anything that would indicate an issue. Additionally, I have replaced the OWI which I thought was a reasonable thing to replace. I had errors prior to replacing the OWI (like 8-2, 5-2, 3-3, 4-1 and 7-1), but I'm not seeing those now; but maybe I'm not initiating the right key sequence like I did during a test earlier in the week. Sorry for the length of this question, but I'd really like to tackle this issue. I also check both thermal fuses (on the bottom and the one on the circuit board and both showed continuity. Finally, I just tried checking the connectors on the circuit board and couldn't figure out how to discounted the ribbon cable on the left.. it seemed pretty tight.. can it be pulled straight out with fingers or is there some other trick? Thanks so much for your help.
Answer Hi Paul. Lets take this from the top. You always will need to run the tap water and if you do not have at least 120° incoming water then today's dishwashers will not run properly. You may need a plumber to do this for you. Once this is established then you need to remove the power. Unhook one wire (or both) and test the heater element for continuity. It should be ohms, not shorted or open. Like you said the thermostats are closed and you should get 120 vac to the heater w/ one wire disconnected so you do not read through the heater. If you do not get the 120vac to the heater then back track the wire connections, all wires and the complete circuit back to the control board. You need to check at pins P9 blue/red wire to white/red wire neutral at in heated dry to see if the K2 pilot relay is closing and the K3 heater relay are giving the 120 vac output to the heater circuit. The heater will have 10-30 ohms. Make sure the door switches are working correctly w/ a ohm meter. Thank You. Read More... Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Saturday, February 4, 2012