Bosch 10023852 Water Inlet Valve OEM Part

Leak was slow but becoming gradually worse. Pulled dishwasher out from under counter then visually inspected sump while it ran. As soon as the water got very hot, I could see the sump leaking where it meets the stainless pan. Searched for the correct sump gasket without success. Turns out that the gasket is built into the sump for this model. The built-in gasket is very narrow (under-engineered IMHO which is probably why it developed a leak). Thanks to Simon's excellent videos at appliancepartspros.com I was able to pull the sump, remove all the critical parts (diverter, circulation pump, drain pump and aqua-sensor) and then "rebuild" the sump system. The most perplexing part was figuring out how to remove/install the water diverter since my internet searches were unsuccessful. You need to locate the locking latch on the perimeter of the circular diverter housing. Make a mark on the housing and the sump so you remember the correct orientation. Now, while you release the locking latch push down on the circular housing while you turn it counter-clockwise (?) and pull the entire diverter assembly from the sump. Installation is just the reverse except you need to make sure that you properly orient the diverter into the sump housing before turning clockwise and hear the locking latch click into place. Also you have to be very patient as you figure out how to disconnect all of the plugs on the wiring harness as to not damage any of them. Finally, just follow Simon's video on replacing the circulation pump to get everything put back together again and cross-your fingers that everything works upon testing. Only special tool needed is the Torx T-20 screwdriver.

We found some great links on YouTube that helped us identify what the problem was (we saw drips from the inlet valve in the back). Then AppliancePartsPros.com has a great video on how to replace the inlet valve. We always like to buy from companies that have sites with repair videos, even if the part costs a bit more - just so we continue to fund the business and they continue to put out quality repair videos. The regular shipping method on this was ultra-fast - we received it in 2 days! To diagnose the dishwasher (see Youtube), we slide the dishwasher out from underneath the cabinet and looked at the underneath workings from the left side after lifting the sound insulation. We could see and reach everything from this vantage point and it was much easier than taking apart the entire front panel. We did not see the slow drip at first, but after turning off the water and drying up all the water at the bottom - we were able to see where the "new" water was coming from. This took us ~1 hour to repair after the part came in. At least 20 mins of the 60 mins were spent separating the white supply tube. The video does not do a great job of showing how to remove the supply hose. It took a little persuasion with a flat screwdriver (wedging it in and then twisting it to separate it). Once you get it started, it comes off easily. We also purchased an extra supply tube just in case I could not get the old one off. We did not need it, but it was worth the $4 piece of mind.

Unplug machine, turned off water supply. (Both were under the sink in my case.) Removed front cover of unit. Removing the 6 torque screws. (The painted metal face cover of the door not the electric head unit.) I say this because both have 6 fasteners. Removed lower face plate.(2 #2 Philips screws) Removed inner lower faceplate (2 torque bolts) Noticed water around the Styrofoam float and micro switch. Removed upper mounting screws to kitchen counter, raised lower leveling feet by turning counterclockwise. Carefully raised unit over tile flooring and removed it from under the counter. Sopped up water in the base catch pan, and around float for the micro switch. Unplugged micro switch by carefully wiggling left and right with upward force. Removed the float and cleaned up the remaining water. Reinstalled float and switch. Plugged unit back in and turned on water. Turned unit on and started a wash cycle. Now watched for leaks. Noticed that the water supply valve at the back was dripping. Stopped cycle by holding Start button for 3 seconds. Turned off water supply again. Machine then drained. Unplugged unit. Removed green electrical connector from valve. Disconnected water supply (metal braided no burst hose) with a pair of normal pliers. From the back left side of unit lifted the fabric noise insulation. Reaching to the valve lifted the center of the base of the plastic retaining bezel that holds the valve and pushed it out. Removed bezel from the valve, than pulled the valve and feed hose through the left back side of the unit. With pliers move the hose clamp and with some force of twisting and pulling remove the white feed line. Found that the outlet side of the valve was cracked. Replaced the valve. Turned on water Plugged in unit. Started a wash cycle, and checked for leaks. Allowed full cycle. Non were seen, no more error code. Reinstalled unit under kitchen counter.

The inlet valve ended up being cracked, flooding the base pan and activated the E15 error code. Ordered the part from appliancepartspros.com and had the replacement within a day and a half. Great service, quick shipping, and accurate parts. Do note that the appliancepartspros website will have different part numbers than the bosch website part number.

I found a slow drip coming from the water inlet valve. This was the source of the E-15 message. The water collected around the styrofoam disk, which then tripped the leak sensor. It was easy to replace the valve, following the video instructions. At the same time, I decided to replace the two door seals, due to periodic leaking in the front of the dishwasher. The lower door seal replacement procedure was long, but the video was very helpful and thorough. The larger, upper door seal was very quick to replace, but there was one problem. The video did was not clear as to the proper orientation of the blade seal with respect to the seal taper. I first installed the seal with the taper pointing outwards. The result was leakage and noisy operation. I found a second source that specified a definite orientation of the seal; that the taper should be pointing inwards. After turning the seal around, the leaking stopped and the dishwasher ran quiet. Success! I suggest that you update your installation video for the upper door seal to make this more clear. Thanks.