How to Troubleshoot & Replace Lg AP5669929 / 4774EN3002A Hinge Pin

I opted to save myself about $600 by repairing my 8 year old LG washing machine rather than buying a new one. After watching some videos I determined what I needed upon taking my washing machine apart. I ended up replacing the tub (includes spider and shaft), since I could not get the spider part removed from the original tub, as well as the motor bolt (which had broken when I removed it from the original tub's shaft). The spider was cracked and the shaft was wobbling which caused it to sound like it belonged at a construction site. I also found that one of the locking pins had came out at some point, which probably helped lead to the broken spider as the tub was not held down evenly. I ordered the replacement parts on a Sunday night and they were delivered by Thursday around 11am. The repair did take some time (i.e. a couple nights), as this was my first time doing this, but the videos online (check out buyspares and appliancepartspros.com) help walk you through the process. Just make sure you take pictures before you remove parts and separate and label the bolts and screws so you will know where they go. It is a time consuming process, but you'll be glad you saved a lot of money and you can enjoy the pride of repairing it yourself. I was impressed with only having to pay $8.99 to have the parts delivered by FEDEX in just 2 days and the purchase price was less than other sites. This was my first purchase from appliancepartspros.com and I will gladly do so again if needed. 

Removed back panel, top panel, control panel, and front of the washer. Removed old and installed new shock absorbers (3), and tub springs (2). Re-assembled panels on the machine. 

My LG front load washing machine was vibrating severly on the spin cycle. I noticed the drum was tilted toward the back of the machine, so I replaced the rear damper. The repair was straightforward: just undo the back cover and swap out the damper. Using a deep socket to push the barbs on the pins holding the damper in place made the repair easier. 

Replaced shocks that support drum. While originally trouble shooting vibration found hot water solenoid was leaking, ordered it and replaced it as well. Now it's as quite as when it was new. 

Ordered damper assembly (3), watched Youtube video and replaced all 3 dampers and pins. Very easy to do after following instructions. Once the front panel of machine was removed I saw the lower weight balance (Lead filled plastic mold around bottom of drum) was off the pins and was just laying loose at bottom of machine. That was why the machine was walking across the floor, but what caused the weight balance to vibrate off over time was the failure of the dampers, causing excessive vibration. Put the weight balance back in place, tightened the bolts that expand the grips that hold on to the pins and now the machine is like brand new. No vibration at all and much quieter. 

The repair video is great, but a couple of suggestions: There is a better way to remove the old bearings. To remove the first one use a 7/8 socket on an extension through the upper bearing to drive it out. Then use a 1 1/8" socket to drive out the other bearing. To replace the new bearings do not hammer on the bearing as shown in the video. Use the old bearing on top of the new bearing. Hammer on the old bearing to drive in the new. 

I had to replace the spider, bearings, shaft seal, and front outer drum housing. The repair video was great! Step by step instruction makes a DIYer like myself look like a pro. Well at least my mom was impressed, and thinks her washing machine works "better than ever" The shocks and locking pins were still in good condition so I was able to return them. This repair takes a fair amount of time but a service man would have been expensive. Fix your moms washer, maybe you can be her favorite for at least a day! 

Washer kept unbalancing, I found one of the shocks had lost it's pin. I replaced the three shock absorbers, springs and also water valves since the old ones were clogged. The top comes off very easily (two screws) to access the water valves. I used a hand truck to lay it on it's side and with the back removed I had access to everything without taking the front off. through the back and large access hole in the bottom, a major time saver. 

Ordered replacement spider, seals, bearings, shocks. Replaced all as long as was in there, though shocks looked good. Spider was not broken but shaft looked scruffy. The bearing seal had leaked and water took out both bearings. One spider bolt wouldn't come out because the nut spun in the plastic housing it was in. I fought that and won. Beating the bearings out and back in was not fun. I had to pound down against the rear bearings inner race against the inner tub to get the spline all the way through unlike the video. When it was all back together all worked except the cycle hung during spin. Got ue error. Tub turned stiff by hand. When I loosened the bolt attaching the rotor to the shaft, the tub started to rotate freer. I reapplied thread locker and just snugged the bolt. It works like new now. DONT overtighten. 

Replaced bearings and seal in the back of the drum, and now the washer performs much better. It was a repair that I would have never attempted without the videos posted on the AppliancePartsPros.com web site. But the repair saved me hundreds of dollars, and has probably extended the life of my washer. Its not an easy repair, and the hardest part of the whole process was getting the bearings out, and inserting the new ones. But the videos will take you step-by-step through the process, and were very accurate.