How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6013143 / WP8546219 Control Board

I watched the video on how to replace this (3) times . whenever I make a repair which I have made several I watch the video (3) times , very helpful . Then Make sure the dryer is unplugged and then proceed. 

Replaced electric control board 

After googling on the computer it sounded like it may have been the terminal block. However, when looking for the terminal block, the only visible part to the dryer was the control board. We took the risk and ordered the control board from appliancepartsPros.com. I used the standard shipping and it arrived at our home in in less than 24 hours. My husband (a bricklayer) and myself (a nurse) watched the video and were able to replace the control board in 5 minutes. The old control board had a large burn mark on the back. We held our breath, plugged it in, and "hit the button" IT WORKED!!! I priced new dryers comparable to mine and they were between $900-$1000. It was worth the risk and one only knows what a service call + the part + the mark up would have been. This AppliancePartsPros.com story had a very happy ending with a $700 savings. 

Got tech sheet from inside dryer and tested motor circuit with a multimeter . There was no resistance showing on the multimeter which indicated an open circuit. The tech sheet advised to change the circuit board which I did and the dryer is fixed. I changed the thermistor because the old one did not look good because I cleaned the inside of the dryer when it was apart, it was covered with lint that was caked on it. The dryer runs like brand new. 

I have a Whirlpool Duet Dryer. The breaker would pop at least once a cycle and it also started to stay hot all the time, even on the 'air only' cycle. After researching blog postings, I opted to tackle the heating element, fuse and thermostat first. The element was broken in a few places (from heating cycles over the past 10 years), so I replaced it and the other parts. Unfortunately, the dryer still heated on 'air only' after this repair. So again, based on blog postings, I next changed the thermistor and thermal fuse on the blower housing. Yep, you guesed it, it still blew hot all the time, so additional blog research led me to the control board. The broken, shorted out heating element had more than likely damaged the heating relay on the control board. I replaced the board and sure enough, it works perfectly. Since I was in there anyway, I vacumned everything out and also put in new rollers and a new belt. Other than the motor, blower and housing, this dryer should last another 10 years. Side note: a new Duet is $999 at the big box stores, about $650 on sale, and I spent a little over $400 in parts to rebuild the dryer. 

Tested element, all fuses, thermostat and thermistor. It all seemed fine, so the only other possibility was the control board. Swapped this a new in and the problem was solved. Very straightforward. The big lesson: When I first opened up the dryer panel, I found several dozen pennies and dimes that had come out of pockets and found their way into the dryer interior. One penny had shorted out the spade connector on the thermistor to ground. It had become charred and melted a bit, holding it in place. My guess is that this short cooked something on the control board. 1 cent cost me $275. In the future, make sure all pockets are empty! 

Watched your video first a couple of times and checked what tools we needed. Then, my Uncle and I did it and yahoo! the dryer is working! Was also impressed how quickly the part arrived. Thanks! 

We bought a dryer roller support kit from a local supplier. When we took the dryer apart we found that the control board and wiring harness were fried. We honestly don't know how the dryer was still working. We order the parts from AppliancePartpro.com and followed their videos. Repair went pretty smoothly. Our dryer works great now. 

Ordered a new Control Board and installed it. Now works fine. 

Great, no problems was straight forward, good DYI video thanks