How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6014950 / WPW10084141 Dishwasher Control Board

Replaced control board. This did the trick! The dishwasher works great again. 

Based on feedback found on the internet, I knew it was either the control panel or control board. Ordered both and it turns out I only needed to replace the control panel. Really easy fix. Turned off the power, unscrewed the top 6 screws to open up the control panel. Removed the cover and disconnected the ribbon cable. Took off the latch assembly and control panel by gently pushing in the plastic tabs. Attached the new control panel by snapping everything back in place, reconnecting the ribbon cable, and putting the cover back on. Screwed everything back in place with the six screws and turn pack on the power. So far, everything is working good as new. 

The repair went well. The dishwashers up in running now no problems 

Our dishwasher quit working again for the 3rd time recently. We researched on You Tube for similar issue, and possible fixes. We had power to the overlay so we ruled out a thermal fuse as most possible problem. Some mode lights would come on when pushed. Tried a self diagnosis test-nothing. Reset circuit breaker-nothing. We had replaced the overlay once two years ago so thought this time it might be a Interconnect Board or a Electronic Board. After consulting with a rep (thank you Joyce) on the phone from AppliancePartsPros we decided to order all three parts and hope that it was one of them that was bad. Parts arrived in just two days, amazing!! I changed the Interconnect Board, still not working. Next decided to change the Overlay Board "again" and that fixed the problem. Not sure why the OLB went bad again for third time. Will keep new parts for now in case of future issues! Kitchenaid (Whirlpool) please take note, your Overlay Boards evidently are cheaply made!! First one lasted 9 yrs, second one barely two! Lets see how long the third one lasts!! 

Opened up the panel and could tell part of the transformer had melted. replaced that part and it's now working fine. 

I unscrewed the 6 screws to expose the board and I replaced the circuit board. It was easy The board was the exact one and I just unplugged wires in several places and attached the new ones in the exact same places 

At first I noticed that the detergent door motor was broken, as the sidewall of the motor had split open and some sort of epoxy-like material had oozed out of it. After replacing the motor the detergent door still did not function, so I replaced the control board, even though it appeared to look as new. That fixed the problem and we're back to washing dishes in the machine! 

Researched online, ordered a replacement dispenser (mine clearly had a melted plastic area on "solenoid"). This did not fix the issue. Did further research and found that controller board was probably defective also. Watched some YouTube videos to learn how to access, remove and replace both parts. Problem fixed after controller replaced. Cost of parts approx $180, cost of labor and service call zero. Priceless. 

Checked for any type of blockage in the sump, nothing present. The main fuse was fine. The door switches were also good. Removed Electronic Control Board and found a small area with blackened residue as if it had shorted. Replaced the ECB, works great again. 

It took both electronic control board & panel - Cnti to fix it . Works fine