How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6014924 / WPW10082892 Dishwasher Heating Element

After reviewing the other repair stories related to this "7 blinking light" syndrome, I contacted their support staff via Chat. I relayed my symptoms along with model number of dishwasher. She indicated that this would normally mean an issue with either the heating element, the high limit thermostat, or the control board. Since the control board was so expensive and (luckily) out of stock, I ordered only the heating element and the thermostat. After pulling out the dishwasher and removing the existing heating element, I tested it with an ohm meter. It was still testing okay. I was getting the same reading on the old element as the new one that I received. But, since I had the dishwasher all apart, I decided to go ahead and replace the heating element anyway. The dishwasher was over 13 years old, so I figured it was time to replace it. I also ordered the high-limit thermostat since it was relatively inexpensive. Removing the clip that holds this thermostat was a bit more work than I expected. It really took quite a bit of pressure to get that clip dislodged from the panel holding it in place. I finally used a flathead screwdriver to give the extra push on the clip that was needed. We have not experienced the blinking clean light since these repairs were completed. Since I replaced both items, I can't say for sure whether it was the heating element or the thermostat. But, for $100 with shipping, it was a relatively quick and cheap way to get our dishwasher working again. 

Replaced control board. This did the trick! The dishwasher works great again. 

Replaced the heating element on the dish washer. after you change it out the way to reset the fault is to press (High temp wash - heated dry - High temp wash - heated dry). it will send the washer into a self check & all the lights will come on. you will be ready to start the washer up now. Thanks 

Replaced the heating element. Used the diagnostics code ( Hi Temp / Energy Saver repeat) to reset the dishwasher. The dishwasher works fine as long as we do not set it with Energy Saver Dry turned on. 

I researched on the Internet and these videos seemed super easy to follow. I wasn't sure whether the problem was the heating element or the high limit thermostat so I bought them both for approx $50 or so. I figured it was easy enough to replace them both vs. one at a time. Plus, who wants to crawl under the sink twice if you can do it once. The parts came in 2 days and I followed the videos --- which were FANTASTIC!! It took me approx. 30-40 minutes to remove everything from under the sink, disconnect power and water, pull out the dishwasher, replace both parts, and put everything back together. Our countertop is granite so there were no screws holding the dishwasher in place. It was just a rubber seal so all I needed to do was slide out the dishwasher. Lessons learned - Wear a ballcap. The cabinet edges are sharp on a bald head! Super easy to follow along with the videos and it only costs about $50! 

Replaced the heater element and related parts. When we accessed the element, it turned out that its water sealed had failed at one terminal. This led to corrosion and ultimately to an arc-fire at the terminal. It was burned to an open-circuit. This necessitated snipping/cleaning the wire end, and soldering on a new terminal lug. Upon installing the new heater element and associated parts, the rubber coating on the threads of the heater element was too thick. It caused the new plastic nut to split. We were able to use the old, original nut which did not split. Also, the new heater element came with rubber washers which obviated the need for new ones. Ultimately, we got the whole enchilada re-assembled and everything works fine. One last note: in our KitchenAid dishwasher, to get the error code to clear we had to run a diagnostic cycle. This is spelled out in the manual hidden behind the lower panel. You press "Normal/Heat/Normal/Heat" quickly and it turns on the diagnostic cycle. 

Fault indicated likely cause was a bad heating element. Ordered the heating element and had it 3 days later. I've worked on the dishwasher before and am mechanically inclined. So removal of the washer from the cabinet to gain full access to the machine was not new to me. This is not difficult - the video covers it very well. I found the replacement of the element straight forward and takes about 15 minutes to complete after gaining access. Again the video covers the replacement well. 

I replaced the element using the video as a guide. Most of the work was done blindly, because I didn't remove the zip ties securing the hose slack and could only easily access the underside from one side. The final trick was resetting the system, for which no guide online could provide a correct procedure. After overnight inspiration, I finally guessed at using Hi-Temp Scrub and Sani-Rinse twice. That started the diagnostic cycle and successfully reset the dishwasher. 

Replaced the thermal fuse for about $22.00. I may still need to replace the heating element, but will wait until after I use the Affresh Dishwasher Cleaner. This is after over $340 dollars and 3 visits from 2 different repairman from the shop where I bought the dishwasher. The first repairman told me that I used too much soap both times he came out. The second one replaced the door sensor and nothing changed. They insisted the dishwasher was working correctly. The actual swap out of the thermal fuse took about 30 minutes, but I spent some extra time cleaning round the door since it was opened up. So far it is now running and cycling like it is supposed to. Thank you for some great videos 

Appliance Parts Pros (APP) had the replacement heating element in stock. Some other do-it-yourselfers recommended also purchasing the two rubber washers/gaskets, so I did. The repair followed APP's video very closely and was easy to complete. I took my time, didn't rush, made sure everything went back together the way it came apart. Before fully screwing down the dishwasher, I ran a full cycle with a partial load of dishes. This ensured 1) My electrical re-assembly was correct 2) I had no water leaks 3) The heating element was working properly. In the end, no leftover parts or screws and the two rubber washers were not needed. The new heating element already had the rubber washers mounted on the electrical posts. Thanks, Appliance Parts Pros for making this an easy job to complete.