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Customer Questions and Answers for Dishwasher Heating Element by Whirlpool

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4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18044781
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10082892

Fix a dishwasher that won't heat water or dry dishes properly. This heating element restores hot water cycles and sanitization. Moderate DIY repair.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dishwasher Heating Element (Part Number: OEM18044781)

Andrew Funk for Model Number JDB8910AWS

HI, My Jennair jdb8910aws Is not drying properly. -I tested the Heating element to be 13ohms. -I left a voltmeter on durning its run and drying cycle, showed no voltage tested AC & DC -Tested the thermosensor to show good (0 ohms). -Kept a food temperature probe clipped onto the heating element , water temperature was around 120deg, at one point the temp. started to rise to about 130, but there was still no voltage to the coil, checked AC & DC. Do you think the relay contacts on the control board? Or something else I replaced the control board a few years ago because of another issue, and its been fine till now. Any Help would be great! Best regards, Andrew

1 Answer

Andrew, You will want to check to make sure that the wiring between the control board and the heating element and if this is good then it will be a faulty control board.

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Barry for Model Number KUDS03FSSS2

I've about given up. Not going to replace the Electronic Control Board or Pump and Motor Assembly, too expensive vs just buying a new machine. The symptom right now the machine "runs" (lights on) for way too long, eventually lights clean, having not cleaned. Water left in tub. I unplug machine (turn off breaker) and let it sit awhile, then I can start it again, and Cancel to drain tub. Have replaced bi-metal (a couple times, after it failed completely), then machine works OK for awhile...Original symptom, machine wasn't draining and eventually bi-metal failed. I cleaned screen, eventually found a little "rubber" foot pad (from a cutting board) had gotten to the drain line, where it attaches to machine, so would periodically lodge there as a *perfectly* fitting plug. So I also changed the drain pump thinking it had been straining, and the turbidity sensor, which had gunk around the seal and clear plastic was pretty scratched from use. This is my last hope, the heating element and/or high-limit thermostat. But should I bother, could they be the cause of this symptom? Sometimes it seems to have gotten super-hot inside, other times when the machine stops seems it hasn't heated up. Haven't done any definitive tests, but thinking maybe the thermostat failing could cause the control board to stop the machine from proceeding to subsequent cycles. Is it worth replacing either/both the element & thermostat, or should I throw in the towel? Any suggested diagnostics? I run diagnostics cycle after changing parts, don't see any lights indicating any failures (this model only has lights, no LCD to show a code number).

1 Answer

Barry, you may want to start by checking the water level and temperature in the bottom of the tub after the first fill cycle of a selection. A lack of water and/or a low water temperature will extend the cycles to a point, it can also cause cause pre mature failure of the thermostat and heater. Wouldn't expect a drain issue from a lack of proper water(unless there's not enough water from the start). You may want to reset the control(run the service diagnostics mode) then start the dishwasher on a wash selection, let it fill and start to wash, unlatch the door, remove the lower rack and check the water level and temperature. make the repairs , reset the control and recheck the operation.

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Goose for Model Number MDB7749AWB1

I would like to know what the resistance should be for the heating element of this dishwasher. I Replaced the user interface a year ago and the thermal fuse blew a week ago. I replaced the thermal fuse WITH the provided wiring kit and it blew the fuse 3/4 of the way through the first cycle. I noticed a spot on the element that looks like it may be ready to burn up, but it still has continuity and reads 12.9 ohms. I"m leaning toward replacing the element. Does this seem appropriate?

1 Answer

Goose, the resistance range on this heating element is 10-30 ohms. I would look more to the high limit thermostat being the problem, your element is with-in proper resistance.

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1 Answer

Dan, Check the thermostat and element for continuity and you can test to see if the control is sending voltage to the element with a clip on amp meter around the black wire leaving the junction box behind the kick plate.Its best to have it in service mode and run thru the test cycles when checking for amps on heater and should read 8 or more amps when energized.Diagnostics is entered by heat dry then normal repeatedly until all lights blink.Then blinking lights will tell you about errors first then starts a test cycle.

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Dan for Model Number GU3600XTVY3

My dishwasher doesn't dissolve the soap completely and the dishes aren't clean. After a cycle there is white residue on the dishes. I started the dishwasher on High Temp wash cycle and the heating element doesn't come on. I will replace it but am curious about the water level as it is below the element. The float also doesn't budge. How can I determine if the inlet valve is working properly and letting enough water in? How does the heating element heat the water if the level is below the element? I ran the dishwasher with Affresh tablets and cleaned the filter also. Thanks, Dan

1 Answer

Dan, Your float should move up and down freely,also your element might not come on when cycle is started and heats water as it washes.If unit is malfunctioning you should be getting an error message or blinking lights on the unit.Let the unit fill then open your door to see how much waters in your unit.Also always purge all your cold water out of the lines at your sink before starting a cycle.

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Kimkats for Model Number Mdb7749awq1 maytag

I ran my dishwasher today and was shocked when I opened it up. I usually turn it off just as it enters the drying cycle, because it's hot enough that the dishes will air dry in just a couple minutes when I open the door. I did this today but did not get the usual cloud of steam that it normally has, and the dishes were not very clean. plus they weren't hot to the touch. There was also a distinct white film on the bottom of the machine and on the glasses. Would I be right in thinking the heating element is shot? If not, what else could it be? I did everything the same as always, but had these awful results today! Thank you

1 Answer

George, If the heater element kit 8194200 / 8194200 has been installed, and you need the element only, the correct part number to order would be W10518394 / W10518394 Element Kit. The part is in stock and available at this time. Thanks,

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Billy Bob for Model Number Kenmore Elite Dishwasher - Model 665.13759K601

My dishwasher had the thermal fuse (located in the control board) fail, and so I just had it replaced (and it failed again midway after the first use). I tested the high-limit switch, and it tests OK, and the existing heating element tested within ohm spec. Do you know if the heating element can be faulty even though the heating element does heat up and tests within the expected ohm range? I opened the door of the dishwasher unit immediately after the latest (brand new) fuse blew, and the water level inside the bottom of the dishwasher is at a level that just touches the bottom of the element [noted moments after the most recent (brand new) thermal fuse blow (mid-cycle) ] ... can a heating element that does heat also be shorted, or can the element also draw too much current and causing a thermal fuse to blow?

2 Answers

Billy Bob, A few things you may want to check. Make sure there are no loose connections especially at the junction box where the power supply enters and attaches to the dishwasher wire harness. Check and make sure the entire thermal fuse kit W10258275 was installed and attached properly(especially the jumper wires and connectors). You can use a meter and test from each element terminal to the tub bottom, and check for a possible short between the element and the chassis, The thermal fuse can react to both current draw and heat, but based on your information "the water level inside the bottom of the dishwasher is at a level that just touches the bottom of the element" the element circuit shouldn't be an issue.

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Billy Bob for Model Number Kenmore Elite Dishwasher - Model 665.13759K601

My dishwasher had the thermal fuse (located in the control board) fail, and so I just had it replaced (and it failed again midway after the first use). I tested the high-limit switch, and it tests OK, and the existing heating element tested within ohm spec. Do you know if the heating element can be faulty even though the heating element does heat up and tests within the expected ohm range? I opened the door of the dishwasher unit immediately after the latest (brand new) fuse blew, and the water level inside the bottom of the dishwasher is at a level that just touches the bottom of the element [noted moments after the most recent (brand new) thermal fuse blow (mid-cycle) ] ... can a heating element that does heat also be shorted, or can the element also draw too much current and causing a thermal fuse to blow?

2 Answers

BillyBob, The heating element can draw too much current and cause the thermal fuse to blow or there could be too high of an amp draw on the motor of the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Lee. You need to make sure you replaced the harness with the fuse W10258275. If so, you will need to order and replace the control board on the unit.

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