How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6011714 / WP8181694 Washer Water Inlet Valve

I unplugged the machine. I removed the two fill hoses. I removed the top of the washer case by removing 3 tamper proof screws from the back ( I used my set of "star" head drivers), sliding the top back 1 inch and lifting the top off. I marked the 4 wires with 1 thru 4 stripes with a marker for ID, then pulled the 4 wires off the landing terminals. I removed the mounting screw and lifted the valve up as far as the hose permitted to get a better grip on the valve and hose. I removed the clear hose by squeezing the hose clamp with my pliers and pulling (this was not easy, and I pulled and twisted them really hard). I threw the old one in the trash so as to not confuse it with the new one. They looked identical. I connected the hose to the new valve by squeezing the hose clamp with my pliers and sliding it on. Unlike removing the old one, it went one easily. Then I put the valve where it belonged and attempted to reinstall the mounting screw. It did not line up. I needed to use a rat tail file and extend the hole a little closer to the valve body (five minutes took care of this). I placed the valve body firmly against the sheet metal back of the machine and installed the screw. I slid the wires back onto the terminal connectors (1 - 4, the way I labelled them). I connected the hot and cold water hoses. I turned the hot and cold water on and checked for leaks. I plugged the machine in (don"t get shocked on electrical parts inside the machine). I started a wash cycle and waited for the tub to start to fill with water. I again checked for leaks where the clear hose connected to the valve. I had no leaks and the valves were allowing water to flow. The water stopped as soon as I shut the machine off. I reinstalled the top of the case using the 3 screws and I was done. Next day I checked the washer tub and it was dry. Problem solved. Except for pulling the hose off the valve and extending the hole with a file, everything went easily. p.s. Do not cross the hot and cold water hoses like I did. I lost all my atta boy points after my wife did several loads of laundry in hot water when she wanted cold water only. Bob the investor. 

Ordered and installed a new inlet valve. I had my 12-yo son do the repair as a painless introduction. 

Tub was filling with water after the washer was off. I replaced the valve and now works great. Thanks 

Followed advice on the videos provided on this site. 

Changed water intake valve as what was recommended by research. Removed 3 screws from back of washer and removed the top. Then dissconnected the solinoid leads and water tube and exchange the valve. Then reinstalled wires and water tube. 

I replaced the dual intake valves (probably the only thing needed) and I replaced the flow meter (on the outside chance that it was contributing to the problem) 

Replacement with the new valve assembly was straightforward and easy. The only problem was that the mounting screw hole in the new assembly was off by about 3/8" to 1/2" so had to drill a new screw hole location in the back panel of the washer. Had read on your comments site that someone else had experienced the same issue. It was no big problem and seems to function just fine. Thanks for the good service and help! 

New valve showed up 24 hours after placing the order. I had already viewed the video so I was ready. I did have to elongate the attach hole in the washer with a rat tail file but this was quick. It was a very easy job! The part works great. Delivery was incredibly fast. 

Problem: HF code after 18 minutes. Took about 1 hr 20 min to complete any cycle. Last 1 sec on timer took about 20 min. No/almost no water coming from sprayer nozzle at 12 o'clock position behind glass. Testing: Diagnostic test showed no errors, however, C:03 took 6 minutes (60-90 seconds is normal). Advised to replace flowmeter which didn't help. Replaced Inlet Valve which fixed all problems. Understanding: The new valve increased water flow by about 5x-10x. Water sprayed from the nozzle where none/almost none was seen before. A much louder, rushing water sound could be heard. Diagnostic C:03 took about 70 sec. Because more water was now entering the machine, and at a faster rate, HF was not generated and the cycle time was reduced to 45-65 min, depending on load size. **A diagnostic test that doesn't show any errors doesn't necessarily mean everything is working properly. Cost about $60. Would have been $600 using a plumber, if I was lucky. 

Replaced the valve solenoid and also updated hose connections