Frigidaire 5304491584 Controller Kit (Electronic Oven Control), 1 Kit OEM Part

Looked for obvious signs of mal-function, burned wires, etc. I found that the compressor controller(attached to the compressor) had an obvious burned-out spot. Took a chance that was the problem (it was); ordered all new OEM parts, including a new timer and run capacitor (a part that kicks in every time the compressor starts). I received the parts at 1 PM EST; by 1:48 PM I had the freezer working. Easily saved $250.00. A nice aside was that an Internet competitor was asking $53.00 for the same compressor controller part that you guys were selling for $12.00. Just a good story all the way around.

Bought a controller kit and the run capacitor that went with it.

Determined that the compressor start/run switch (controller) was bad. Changed it out and the Capacitor also even though the capacitor tested good. Also ordered an alarm for the freezer to warn if it is getting to warm. Don't want to loose another 1/4 of beef and a pig.

GOT ON APPLIANCE PARTS PROS AND BOUGHT THEIR RECOMMENDED RUN CAPACITOR AND CONTROLLER KIT. INSTALLED CAPACITOR AND STILL, WOULDN'T START, SO DISASSEMBLED IT AND LOOKED AT CONTROLLER. IT WAS BURNT ON BOTTOM, INSTALLED NEW ONE WITH INCLUDED WIRE CONNECTORS AND SHRINK TUBES, REASSEMBLED AND TURNED BACK ON. FROZEN ICE JUGS NEXT MORNING. SECOND TIME I'VE USED PARTS AND INSTRUCTIONS FROM APPLIANCE PARTS PROS ON MY 2003 FRIGIDAIRE FREEZER AND IT'S STILL TRUCKING ON.

Because the door to the fridge was not completely closed properly as soon as it was allowed to freeze, gradually the ice building up around the cooling coils and fan began to obstruct the airflow (creating a loud noise from the fan blade). Originally I assumed the compressor was completely shot and decided to attempt to resolve the issue by replacing the Capacitor (which originally is a 250 Vac, model number 297286803, though the 220 Vac with 12 Microfarad works as well,) along with the Controller Kit, assuming that somehow it was simply the compressor overheating and not getting engaged properly to allow proper cooling. It started humming again, though I was wondering about the fan and coil panel at the bottom inside (which should be the first step before replacing parts). It is also warned the capacitor requires discharging, however I survived it without issue. The only tool needed was a allen screwdriver for the cooling fan (a lot of times I suspect unplugging the freezer allows the fan to become unclogged, which might actually be whats resolving cooling issues.)