Frigidaire 5303935066 Oven Igniter OEM Part

My Tappan Range, which I paid a grand total of $65.00 for, and have been using since Katrina, (Katrina in 2005 is how we measure time in South Mississippi.) I live in an old house, and I am old, too. Last winter was the coldest I can remember, and my husband (older than I and far more hard-headed) used the oven like a heater. I read all user's manuals, because I use only used stuff, I can download the manuals or read them online, and it clearly stated in there NOT to use the oven as a heater, but he did. I make my own bread and do all my own fixes, from car windows and the roof and everything in between (my husband "supervises.") So, when the oven failed to ignite, I knew what the problem was right away and was fortunate enough to find your website, which is so simple even my husband could use it (or maybe not, anyway...) Your website was so easy to use, I identified the part I needed and got it so fast, I couldn't believe it when I saw that little box on my porch! I took out the old igniter - two wires a screw and a nut - put in the new one, and it works like a charm. The whole project took approximately 30 minutes and while it was apart, I cleaned it really well, so now it's like I have a brand new stove! I really love your website, it's in my bookmarks, and I will be back! I will also recommend your site to my neighbors. I'll probably end up doing their repairs when they find out that I can, but the savings from not calling a repairman are too much not to do it for them - they're even older than my husband and me! Thanks for the part, your lovely website, and a special thanks to whomever set up your site and had the idea to provide parts to do-it-your-selfers. Jeanie

The recommended fix was to replace the electric ignitor, which wasn't getting hot enough to draw enough current to trigger opening the gas line to start a flame. Although I found AppliancePartPros YouTube video online which showed the steps involved, my oven is quite old and some of the steps didn't apply. The oven's age also contributed to some difficulty in the repair. 1. Remove Access Panel On Back and Disconnect This step wasn't necessary as all my connections were behind the warming tray under the oven cavity. My ignitor wasn't wired in with a Molex style connector, so I couldn't simply disconnect my old ignitor. 2. Remove Oven Bottom Screws and nuts had rusted from extended heat exposure. The thumbscrews holding down the oven floor panel couldn't be removed except with a flat-blade screwdriver. Remove by tilting back up and sliding backwards until it detaches. 3. Remove Flame Spreader The flame spreader was held to the oven by two screws at the front, and to the gas tube by one nut. The front screws came out easily enough. But the threaded bolt is actually welded to the gas tube. I found it had warped slightly from heat, so removal and re-installation was slowed. 4. Remove the Ignitor The screws holding my old ignitor in place sheared off and wouldn't come out easily. I ended up having to remove the gas tube so I could knock out the damaged screw and free the ignitor. The tube was held in by two screws, one in front and one at back. 5. Install New Ignitor I found a couple screws that matched the threads well enough and reinstalled on the tube while I had it out. Then reinstall the gas tube. It was a bit awkward working under the oven, but I was able to pull enough wire to reach in with a wire stripper. Supplied wire nuts made a solid connection. I carefully tucked the wires at the back of the oven so they wouldn't interfere with the drawer. I reconnected and tested before reassembling the oven. After I confirmed gas ignited, I let it cool and reversed steps to reassemble.

Unplug the range unit from the wall socket. Turn off gas if shut-off valve for oven (below the oven) is not closing for whatever reason. Remove baking dish tray from the bottom of the unit. Unscrew the plate in front of the gas/electronic components to the rear beneath the oven. Look for two white wires going up to the oven above and unplug them as needed below. Also, remove any ceramic caps splicing the igniter wires to the wires below. Keep the portion of wire left on the bottom for reattachment later. Open the oven and remove the drip tray and flame spreaders by removing any screws as needed. If needed to access the screws holding the igniter in place, dismount the burner by removing necessary screws. Burner can be pulled up and out of the oven and shut-off valve below should keep the gas from leaking out. Dismount the igniter unit by removing any necessary screws. Igniter unit should now pull straight up and out with wires in tow. By testing the igniter with a multimeter for resistance (200-Ohm setting), you can verify that the igniter has burned out (no reading). Your new igniter should read about 75 Ohms on the same setting. Mount the new igniter to the burner as needed and place the burner back in place as needed. Run the wires for the igniter back down below as you mount the igniter. Use ceramic caps--new ones are provided in your igniter kit--to splice the wires from the igniter to the wires down below the oven. Do not twist the wires together. Merely place them in contact and use the ceramic caps to provide the twist. A wire cutter may be needed to clean up the wires for better splicing. Plug the wires back into the electronics below as needed. Plug your range unit back into the wall socket and attempt to start the oven. If the igniter can be seen to glow and flames are produced, your oven is working. Turn off the heat and replace the flame spreader and drip tray. Replace the plate that protects the parts below the oven and your baking dish drawer.

I Googled for a solution & watched some Youtube videos, then went to Appliance Parts Pros. I have had such great success with APP, & this adds another victory. Indeed, I had recently replaced the bottom pan in the oven for cosmetic reasons, so I wasn't giving up on it. With the bottom panel & heat deflector removed I noticed the igniter did not glow as bright as several videos said it should. Also, it's supposed to light the oven in like 60 seconds or less. After 3 minutes I shut it off. I wanted to fix it fast, so I went on AAP's chat & that fellow was very helpful with both confirming the preferred repair solution & getting the part to me fast. With the igniter exposed, I removed the two screws holding it in place. As with ALL screws inside an oven, one has to be mindful not to break them (galling, etc.). Then I removed the bottom storage drawer & unhooked all wire connections, taking notes on where everything hooked up. This igniter must fit many models - it had flying leads, so I had to cut off & transfer a connector & some female quick disconnect terminals. I also had to re-use the few inches of high temp. shielding where the wires come out of the igniter. It was easy to do, one just has to be mindful of where to make cuts, splicing, etc. Use wiring pliers if possible. It came with the 2 needed wire nuts - ceramic since it is a high temperature application. After the repair, the oven lit in 24 seconds. At the next usage (keeping takeout pizza warm) it preheated to 200 degrees in about 4 minutes.

Replaced the igniter. I didn't even have to pull the oven from the wall to get access to unplug the igniter; I could do so by removing the bottom drawer (although I really should have done so to turn off the gas and unplug the power cable).