Ge WH02X10279 Locking Clip OEM Part

Motor control board was flashing 4 times, indicating that the mode shifter had an error. I disconnected the mode shifter's wire from the controller and measured the resistance between the 2 leads with an ohmmeter. Since the reading was infinite, that meant that the mode shifter coil or in-line thermal sensor was electrically open, i.e. bad. As this fix is near a complete tear-down of the washing machine, here are a few tips I discovered. 1) the hub nut is difficult to remove and you need a spanner wrench; however, since the mode shifter shaft has 4 flats on it (one on each side, square) - I used a small exacto knife to scrape the gunk out of the small void between the shaft and hub nut. Mine had white/yellow soap scum in all 4 voids and I am sure this would make it much harder to remove the hub nut if not removed as much as possible. When this gunk was removed, I then used some wicking fluid, which worked much more effective now and I only had to let it sit for 20 minutes. I used Tri-Flow, which is similar to WD-40. 2) my tube seal was pretty gunked up and stuck in the tub basket. Thus, I used a small pair of vise-grips to grap it from the inside and then rocked the vise-grips back and down, which popped the old seal right out. Note, the new shaft and mode shifter comes with a new tub seal and it is pre-packed with grease on the inner area that touches the shaft. Note, I used a very tiny bit of this grease to lube the outside of the tube seal when I pushed it down into the plastic tub and I read others who used a touch of dish soap instead. 3) also, my large belt wheel was stuck on the shaft - a quick tap on the end of the shaft with a hammer loosened it right up and no need to worry about damaging the shaft or bearings, as this is being replaced. 4) my tub bearing was also vey tight in the plastic basket. I used a bit of wicking spray here too, and used 2 flathead screwdrivers to pry the bearing up and out. I leveraged against the raised plastic ribs of the tub basket and didn't worry about marking those up a bit, as they are support ribs and away from the main slot/hole that holds the tub bearing. However, I did take care to make sure that my screwdriver tips did not hit or mark-up this slot/hole. 5) since I had everything apart, I took the opportunity to clean the basket, drum, etc. I also marked the motor bracket with respect to the plastic tub as well as anything else that seemed variable and that I could forget when reassembling. I also took pictures as I was disassembling in steps, so that I could ensure everything went back together correctly, etc.

Replaced washer tub straps and a broken strap retaining clip.

Replaced transmission, all seals, and dampers. It is a complicated, messy repair but costs much less than replacing the machine. This is the second tranny I have put in the 30 year old machine and now it works like new. Take the time to replace all seals if you do this repair. No use putting a new tranny in with old seals that will crack.

YouTube video indicated worn-out stabilizer straps (4) at top of the tub needed replacing. Ordered from AppliancePartsPros.com, and got them the next afternoon. Repair required two sizes of nut drivers and about 45 minutes of time to replace the 4 straps. Washer worked like new again after repair and saved me about $200 for a service tech call. Parts cost me about $8 each X 4. The previous tech had mangled the front panel locking clip so I replaced that while I had the front and top off. Another $8 was well spent as it eliminated the annoying rattle of the front panel. Have used AppliancePartsPros twice now and they've gotten me the parts overnight both times. Right parts... reasonable price and great service.

I viewed repair manual found on-line also viewed Instructional videos from AppliancePartsPros, Followed instructions, ordered parts, Repaired washing machine, Approx- 4 Hours. Thanks Your instructional Videos are fantastic !!