Ge WD21X31910 Dishwasher User Interface Control Board OEM Part

The control went thru a month or so of erratic behavior; the display would come on and flash and beep without any input on my part. Then it died completely. I did a little research on the GE website and determined likely cause waa a defective user interface board. I found AppliancePartsPros.com and contacted their tech support, who directed me to check the output of the control board across 2 pins for 13.5v DC. I did this, and measured 13.8v, so control board was good. When I reconnected the wire harness going to the UI board, the control came back to life and functioned normally for about a week before it started acting erratic again and died for good. I then ordered a new UI board and installed that, and now the dishwasher works fine. For how long remains to be seen... Anyways, it isn't too difficult of a job to replace the electronic boards, and there are good how-to videos on Appliance Pros website. I found the difficult part was accessing the boards, and replacing it all. More awkward then anything, and in the end it took about 3 or 4 hours and cost about $120. Better then paying crazy money for a repairman or buying a new dishwasher! Only disappointment with AppliancePartsPros.com was I was lead by one of their tech support people to believe the control board (power supply) was bad, and I ended up replacing that too ($145), before I replaced the UI board. This didn't fix the problem so I then had to buy the UI board. Test output voltage, and if it's in spec, then check the harness for continuity at the UI board. That order of troubleshooting will determine what's bad. Good luck with your repair!

Per an online video, I checked the water and power feeds to ensure that I had enough slack to move the unit out. I moved the unit out and removed the kick plate and insulation. I disconnected the power feed to the door. Per the video, I removed the door. I unscrewed a screw behind each hinge, and then the two star headed screws on each side of the door (two were stripped at the factory, so I had to us e a phillips head screwdriver on those). Per the video, I removed the inner panel of the door, disconnected the control panel wire feeds, removed the plastic control panel cover screws, pulled out the panel, removed the clear plastic cover, replaced the panel, and reassembled. I reassembled the door (I replaced all four star headed screw with new 1/2" machine screws with combo standard / phillips heads). I put the door back on the unit, re-attached the spring lines, connected the power feed to the door, put back insulation, and reinstalled the kick plate. Slide the unit back in, plugged it in, and it works as it should. If it wasn't for the stripped screws, the time required would have been about 30 minutes.

I powered off, removed the door from the unit, removed the aluminum cladding from the frame and then removed the UI unit. I had to work a little to pry the UI unit open without damaging the case. I set the 'personality jumpers' based on the included instructions per my model number. Then it was pretty trivial to re-assemble the UI (buttons + control board + case) and then put the whole thing back together. The applianceblog was clutch! https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/ge-dishwasher-gdt545psj2ss-intermittent-loss-of-power-to-the-door-controls.94622/

Https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/ddt595ssjss-ge-adora-needs-new-control-board-already-randomly-beeping-control-panel-died.69360/ Mine was a user interface board. The above link was tremendously helpful. Thank you!

Ordered circuit board from AppliancePartsPros. It worked for two weeks,then stopped. You sent another one and the same thing happened after one week. In total, three circuit boards were sent, and two were mailed back. Your technician suggested it maybe the Top Logic board. He was right! It arrived the following day. It was exactly what the dishwasher needed-working fine now. Thank You