Ge WB21X36771 Infinite Heat Switch Kit OEM Part

I replaced all 3 remaining burner controls because they were all original (mid 1970s GE electric range w/coil burners), and one of the controls occasionally made arcing sounds when cycling the burner on and off. If a control is making odd noises - more than just a quiet metallic clicking as it cycles - it should be replaced. I'm assuming you have experience with the tools needed and can do simple mechanical assembly or disassembly, but have not previously worked with electrical equipment of this type. 1. Unplug the range power cord. If the range is hard-wired to a cable, turn off the range breakers or pull the range fuses at the panel. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE there is no power to the range before you go further. 2. Remove the upper back panel with a nut driver or screwdriver. Then, for each control being replaced: 3. Following the instructions packed with the new control, break off the control shaft to make it the same length as the original and, if necessary, use the adaptors provided to make the knob fit the new shaft, and/or to allow the control to be mounted to the panel. In my case, no adaptors were needed. 4. Make sure you are holding the new part with "TOP" marking up. 5. Transfer wires from the old control, ONE AT A TIME, to the same-marked terminal on the new part. DON'T unfasten the old control from the panel yet. 6. For each wire, before connecting it to the new control, I SLIGHTLY squeezed the connector at the end of the wire to make sure that it would tightly grip the terminal on the new control. With electrical devices, a loose connection can do more damage than a short circuit. 7. After all wires are transferred and double-checked, remove the screws holding the old control and discard it and the screws. The old screws may not fit the new control. 8. Fasten the new control to the panel, with "TOP" up, using the smaller set of 2 screws that came with the new part. 9. Make sure the control is in the OFF (detent) position, and slide the knob onto the shaft with OFF at the top. 10. Double check everything, replace the back cover making sure no wires are pinched between the cover sections, reconnect the power, and check the burner operation by placing a pan of water on the burner and setting the control to medium. Before long, you should hear the control cycling the burner off and on to maintain the correct temperature. Turn the control to HIGH, and before long the water should boil. DO NOT leave a bare burner set on HIGH. It's hard on the burner element, and the radiant heat from an orange-hot burner will melt the knobs and trim on the panel, and may start a fire.

My 1984 GE Electric Stove model number was very close to an another entry, but not actually in appliance repair pros' model numbers list. But my burners looked and measured the same for the near entry number, and the surface unit control switch looked very similar. I decided to take a chance and ordered 2 of each.. (Actually I wouldn't have needed new burners but an earlier "repair guy" took 2 of my burners and never returned - and no one could find him!) It turned out the new burners fit perfectly, but although the surface unit switch connected up electrically identically to my old one, it wouldn't seat properly in the built-in board receptical where the old one had. I wound up lashing both new surfface unit switches down inside the old recepticals with "bailing wire" (actually soft metal paperclip wire). That was awkward and tedius to install using, needle nose plyers between other components. But worse, I then noticed that somehow in the process earlier of removing the old switches, I had knocked off one of the circular printed heat level indicaters that turn with the switch control rod and show through the glass stove front. It had fallen down between the glass and main circuit panel. I then had to take apart quite a bit of the glass front assembly in order to retrieve the dropped circular heat level indicator. Altogether I spent about 1 day on this fix. Probably it would have been more like 1/2 day if I hadn't dropped the heat level indicator into a tough place to retrieve it. Also if the surface unit switch had just snapped into place, maybe only a couple hours. But it was an interesting experience over all, and the stove's working fine now.

I ordered the recommended Infinite Heat Switch Kit and Element Receptacle and Wire Kit and installed them. The latter was a breeze, appearing to be exactly the same as the original, except for the wire color. The switch, though, was another story. It is a RobertShaw "replacement" part, designed, it seems, for use in the greatest number of original units as possible. The most obvious difference between this switch and the original (besides its comparatively small size) is the long, segmented "break-off" stalk protruding from the front. Instructions (accessed via message as a pdf) are fairly good, except the image of my original switch appears to a tenth-generation photocopy from a Daguerreotype. At any rate, PHOTOGRAPH OR DIAGRAM THE ORIGINAL WIRING BEFORE YANKING WIRES. I got the wires on correctly, but unfortunately the nylon adapter (the original is brass), even with the stalk broken off as far as possible, was still too long, so I had to slice it short with a Dremel cutting wheel. And it was still too long. The feel of the switch is a bit funky, too, compared to the original, so I ended up swapping the new switch with an original, rarely used one. I'll be able to use that other burner if I ever need it, but I won't enjoy it and am a bit worried the adapter will break off with no way I can think of to replace it. All in all, a functional but not-so-great replacement for which I guess I'm grateful since the original is apparently unavailable. I know, though, that AppliancePartsPros.com are in no way to blame for the shortcomings of the replacement part (which I assume is the best available), and I continue to be very happy with their inventory, service, promptness, and helpful advice.

The replacement switch was shipped the same day and arrived in 2 days. The replacement switch did not look exactly like the original part – but I expected that since the original unit/part was built over 30 years ago. Nonetheless the switch fit perfectly and installation was easy and took under 30 minutes - with most of that being the time to pull the unit out from the cove, removing the back panel and carefully labeling the wires for installation. Fixed the problem. Burner heats normaly through the settings.

This is the electric SS stove without bottom drawer and control knobs are on front of the stove facing you, can't find the model # handy since it was a job site Replaced the switch, the front panel which holds all switches is tricky to be removed for inexperienced. You can pull the front panel only so much otherwise you'll disconnect the PC board cable by pulling more. Unhook top or bottom first after removing screws from the front panel and you have some space for hand to hold on the switch presuming power has been disconnected first. Hidden screws on right and left and also under each side. Needle nose pliers and sensitouch is helpful removing/reinstalling wire connectors in the proper order naturally. Any loose connector can be pinched a bit carefully by pliers to get proper tension otherwise that spot may burnout.