How to Troubleshoot & Replace Ge AP6988477 / WB21X36771 Infinite Heat Switch Kit

My 1984 GE Electric Stove model number was very close to an another entry, but not actually in appliance repair pros' model numbers list. But my burners looked and measured the same for the near entry number, and the surface unit control switch looked very similar. I decided to take a chance and ordered 2 of each.. (Actually I wouldn't have needed new burners but an earlier "repair guy" took 2 of my burners and never returned - and no one could find him!) It turned out the new burners fit perfectly, but although the surface unit switch connected up electrically identically to my old one, it wouldn't seat properly in the built-in board receptical where the old one had. I wound up lashing both new surfface unit switches down inside the old recepticals with "bailing wire" (actually soft metal paperclip wire). That was awkward and tedius to install using, needle nose plyers between other components. But worse, I then noticed that somehow in the process earlier of removing the old switches, I had knocked off one of the circular printed heat level indicaters that turn with the switch control rod and show through the glass stove front. It had fallen down between the glass and main circuit panel. I then had to take apart quite a bit of the glass front assembly in order to retrieve the dropped circular heat level indicator. Altogether I spent about 1 day on this fix. Probably it would have been more like 1/2 day if I hadn't dropped the heat level indicator into a tough place to retrieve it. Also if the surface unit switch had just snapped into place, maybe only a couple hours. But it was an interesting experience over all, and the stove's working fine now. 

I ordered the recommended Infinite Heat Switch Kit and Element Receptacle and Wire Kit and installed them. The latter was a breeze, appearing to be exactly the same as the original, except for the wire color. The switch, though, was another story. It is a RobertShaw "replacement" part, designed, it seems, for use in the greatest number of original units as possible. The most obvious difference between this switch and the original (besides its comparatively small size) is the long, segmented "break-off" stalk protruding from the front. Instructions (accessed via message as a pdf) are fairly good, except the image of my original switch appears to a tenth-generation photocopy from a Daguerreotype. At any rate, PHOTOGRAPH OR DIAGRAM THE ORIGINAL WIRING BEFORE YANKING WIRES. I got the wires on correctly, but unfortunately the nylon adapter (the original is brass), even with the stalk broken off as far as possible, was still too long, so I had to slice it short with a Dremel cutting wheel. And it was still too long. The feel of the switch is a bit funky, too, compared to the original, so I ended up swapping the new switch with an original, rarely used one. I'll be able to use that other burner if I ever need it, but I won't enjoy it and am a bit worried the adapter will break off with no way I can think of to replace it. All in all, a functional but not-so-great replacement for which I guess I'm grateful since the original is apparently unavailable. I know, though, that AppliancePartsPros.com are in no way to blame for the shortcomings of the replacement part (which I assume is the best available), and I continue to be very happy with their inventory, service, promptness, and helpful advice. 

The replacement switch was shipped the same day and arrived in 2 days. The replacement switch did not look exactly like the original part – but I expected that since the original unit/part was built over 30 years ago. Nonetheless the switch fit perfectly and installation was easy and took under 30 minutes - with most of that being the time to pull the unit out from the cove, removing the back panel and carefully labeling the wires for installation. Fixed the problem. Burner heats normaly through the settings. 

This is the electric SS stove without bottom drawer and control knobs are on front of the stove facing you, can't find the model # handy since it was a job site Replaced the switch, the front panel which holds all switches is tricky to be removed for inexperienced. You can pull the front panel only so much otherwise you'll disconnect the PC board cable by pulling more. Unhook top or bottom first after removing screws from the front panel and you have some space for hand to hold on the switch presuming power has been disconnected first. Hidden screws on right and left and also under each side. Needle nose pliers and sensitouch is helpful removing/reinstalling wire connectors in the proper order naturally. Any loose connector can be pinched a bit carefully by pliers to get proper tension otherwise that spot may burnout. 

By ordening the parts from appliance parts they showed the part I needed the film showed me how to it really good 

We are living in a rental house . The kitchen has a bisque refrigerator, a stainless steel microwave, a black 18" diswasher and a "Harvest Gold" 27" drop in range . The large burner on the range which we use the most to cook on was either full on or or on low. Called GE repair. They sent some idiot out who told me there were no replacement parts authorized by GE, charged me $105 and left. I checked with Appliance Pros . They sent me the appropriate part and I replaced the old one in 30 minutes or less just using a screwdriver. The stove now works fine. The knob sticks out a bit farther than the others but this is not a problem. The instructions made no sense at all. I just took the wires off one at a time and plugged them into the new switch at the lug with the same letter and number. Used pliers to break the stem off to appropriate length. 

Replced 

Replaced defective OEM control with multi-application replacement. Enclosed instructions were useless: knob bushings were NOT color coded as described and pin layout was different from illustration (or OEM). Just connected new control according to pin labels, and it worked fine. The heat setting even matched the OEM control. The part was a bargain from Appliance Parts Pros and I saved myself a bundle for a service call. 

Replaced the controller that the temperature knob connects too. Discovered this on one of your videos, or I wouldn't have known what to change out. Works perfect now, and wife is really happy. She has been doing without it for almost a year. The stove also needed new drip pans and rings, which we could not locate locally. Found them on your website (perfect fit by-the-way) and that is what got me to looking for a solution to the other issue with the burner. Many thanks for the video, and the parts. 

I used the video on the web site to see how to do it. The wire configuration on the back of the new switch was different but the labels were the same so it just too a few minutes to see where the prongs on the new switch were. The long part was cleaning the stove after pulling it away form the cabinets. 18 years of gunk but that went pretty quickly too. All set now with a new switch and a clean stove.