Ge WR49X10091 Refrigerator Damper Assembly OEM Part

I went on line and read your advice page. Based on that, I removed the damper assembly (six screws counting the miserable light fixture) and found the damper door broken as predicted. I went back to your page and ordered the new part. Nice breakdown to get number. After that, I disassembled the damper assembly, found that the ABS plastic damper had broken from the actuator probably as a result of fatigue from cycling back and forth for twelve years. I used super glue to re-attach the damper to the actuator, then, once in place, I used a soldering iron to melt the ABS a little bit in hopes it would hold the damper until I got the new part. I put it all back together and it worked, or at least it worked after I took it back apart, oriented the damper to the actuator properly and put the fan back in correctly. Mark things as you disassemble if you try this or you will get them backwards too. Anyway, this "fix" worked for the few days until I got the new assembly. It was still intact when I took the damper assembly off to replace it but please, the glue and melt trick is not a permanent fix. I've tinkered with broken ABS before and am yet to find a way to repair it permanently once broken. This fix will get you out of the "woods" for a few days but order a new damper assembly and replace the "fixed" one as soon as it arrives. You will save yourself time and money not to mention frustration. I installed the new assembly when it arrived. It fit nicely with no problem and it works fine. Job done. Refrigerator side is cold again but not freezing like before. Job was easy. Thanks. Another lesson. During removal of the damper assembly, the plastic shield that goes below the damper assembly must be unsnapped at the break between the shield and damper assembly by snapping outward away from the damper assembly. It then pulls down to unsnap from the back of the refrigerator. The shield beside the water filter unsnaps away from the damper assembly and then can be pulled out of a snap on the refrigerator wall on the opposite side of the filter. Also, check the cold outlets on the upper sides of the new assembly.. My old one had an outlet on both sides, the new one only had one on one side and a plug on the other. I removed the plug and installed one of the outlets from the old assembly in its place. Again, easy job. Thanks again for the advice from your web site and the quick delivery of the part. I hope this helps some other DYIer.

I replaced the refrigerator damper per your online diagnosis when the refrigerator is too cold - ours was running at 30F. I watched the video which greatly aided the install. Our refrigerator was slightly different with more ducting down the back and two additional ducts on the ceiling of the refrigerator. But the video helped understanding how the parts came out. I had to remove two plastic "door" pieces on the replacement duct so they would feed into the top ceiling ducts on my model. I also added some adhesive backed foam on my ceiling ducts to close off the opening to these ceiling duct openings on the replacement duct. The ceiling ducts come out by sliding them toward the front of the refrigerator and they are tricky to slide back in place. You must look on the inside edge to see how the tabs line up and then slide over corresponding tabs on the refrigerator top plate. No tools are required, you just have to futz with it several times to get them lined up and seated fully. If they are not fully seated and pushed back, the light cover will not snap into place on the front taps. I also slit the wire openings on the silicone weather seal in my original duct electric connector and added that to the new one. Before I installed the new duct I pulled apart the old duct and sure enough, the door axle was broken as others had mentioned so this was clearly the problem. The refrigerator is now maintaining 37F per my setting. I didn't replace the Temperature sensor I bought.

Researched symptoms on web. Most common problem I found was a broken damper door. Per the advice I found here (http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/04/14/ge-arctica-refrigerator-broken-air-damper-and-everythings-freezing-in-the-beer-compartment/) I disassembled things far enough to confirm that the damper door didn't seem to be working, so I took it completely apart and sure enough, the door had broken off the motor. I'm about to replace the refrigerator as part of a kitchen remodel, and one of the sites I found in my wanderings suggested taping over about 3/4 of the opening as a temporary fix. I did that, with the intention of leaving it that way forever. It worked OK for a few days, keeping the freezer between 3 - 5 degrees, and the refrigerator compartment in the 34 - 37 degree range. But then something in the environment caused the fridge to drop down to freezing, and I said 'Screw it'. So I ordered the part (WR49X10091) on a weekend, and it was on my front porch the following Tuesday. Sweet! Since I had already taken it apart once before, it went smoothly. It is now about 6 hours since I installed it, and everything is back to normal. Suggestions: I found it easier to remove the shelves and everything attached to the inside 'ceiling' of the refrigerator (light cover, light bulbs, light bulb socket mounting, water filter, and water filter shroud). Note, the shroud covering the water filter looks like it's screwed into the side wall. It isn't. Just pull the shroud straight toward the front of the refrigerator. As the link above says, you don't need to remove the rear tower assembly at the back. All told, less than an hour. Even the first time, when I didn't know what I was doing. Go for it!

Thank goodness for AppliancePartsPros.com. When I queried the issue for the GE Arctica refrigerator this place had lots of folks with the same problem and thankfully the same solution--replace the damper. I read and watched a few videos. All looked pretty simple. I took out the top two shelves and the deli drawer. I pulled off--although I was afraid to at first-- the adjustment knob that controlled the deli drawer temp, remove the light shield, and gently pulled the tower away, starting at the top. I did remove the water filter protector. It just snaps in and off. Unscrewed the top light cover and removed the cold air direction plastic at the top. Unscrewed the damper assembly at the bottom and top of the assembly. Unhooked the connection to see what the problem was. YEP! The damper door was broken, I cut the masking tape that secured the foam insulation at the back of the damper door. I removed the damper door and its connecting pin (two parts--pin and sleeve) . I first tried Super Glue to attach the door to the pin, but this did not work. Someone was unsuccessful using a soldering gun to melt the ABS, so I wasn't going to try that. Really wished I had some plastic modeling glue, but I think those model cars, boats, and airplanes were made from a different plastic. What was super successful was using hot glue from a hot glue gun! Worker perfectly. I only needed it to last a few days until the damper assembly arrived. I glued the pin to the door and built up the sides of the break with more hot glue. A bit like adding a weld on top. I made sure the door and female pin connection allowed for enough clearance to put the door back in. Didn't do this the first time. Reassembled the damper door and put everything back together. That top air conductor that I mentioned earlier was a bear. I just couldn't get it to slide in or connect in the same way I took it out. Bloody of a time it was. The damper was still working correctly when the new part arrived. I kept the repaired part just in case. Everything work great. Fridge is keeping at 36-38 degrees ( yea, I know, opening to door too much for those cold ones). What I really liked about AppliancePartsPro was the model applicability app on the order page. I keyed in my model number and was assured that the part I was about to order would work. Sets one's mind at ease. Just perfect.

Last week I realized my refrigerator wasn't cooling well. I thought maybe there was a freeze up someplace, so I completely cleaned it out and unplugged it and let it sit overnight. The following day, after plugging it back in and giving it time to cool, the problem still existed and I realized there wasn't much air moving into the refrigerator from the freezer. I called two local service companies, but because I live out in the country, neither of them were willing to make the drive out. One service guy did seem to think it was the damper assembly that was the problem when I explained what I had done and what I was experiencing. Because I had previously used Appliance Parts Pros in the past to replace a motherboard on this refrigerator and also an exhaust fan motor more than two years ago, I went to their site to look up the damper assembly part. I called them to confirm I had the correct part since my refrigerator is more than 17 years old. The man I talked to also said he thought my problem was the damper assembly. I ordered the part from the website and the part came the very next day by Fed Ex. I was able to install the part within 45 minutes with the help of the handy and helpful video Appliance Parts Pros has on their website. One thing that motivated me to do this myself was, prior to knowing the problem, I went to town and started looking at new refrigerators but one place told me it would be 6-8 weeks before I could get any of the models I liked and the other place told me it would be at least 10 days. Thank you, Appliance Parts Pros. You saved me a ton of money!