Ge WB27X21609 Transformer OEM Part

The ordeal began after wiping around burner knobs with a moist paper towel with cleaner and wrapping the towel around the burner knob shaft to clean around it. The cooktop stopped sparking on all the 5 burners and no red LED light. There was gas flow and I could light the burner using a lighter. I looked up and found a couple of good youtube videos on troubleshooting and also came upon the AppliancePartsPros.com site. I opened the cooktop (youtube video helped) after turning off the gas supply and tested the input and output to the transformer with a multimeter. Got no voltage and knew at least the transformer was bad also due to other stories and Q&A's for this part, it was very likely that the burner harness switch had a short on one of them which caused the transformer to go belly up. I ordered both the transformer and the switch harness. Once parts came in, turned off the gas supply and power, and removed the burners knobs and gas burners. For gas burners unscrewed the 5 T15 screws (star-shaped bit) on each burner (the outer 3 screws are different thread than the two in the middle), lifted the burner, and disconnected the igniter connection and now the stove top could be removed. Next, pull off the insulating sheet and you have access to the innards to replace the necessary parts. I took lots to pics so I knew what went where. The harness switches look a little different (black versus white and new black ones sit square instead of at a 45-degree angle on the gas valve, but clip on the same way. I disconnected the connectors at the transformer and the LED strip (you will have to remove the covers holding the LED board attached to the gas valve (sliver metal strip attached by two bolts on each side of the burner assembly). Then I replace the old harness with the new one replicating the position of the wires etc as it was. Make a note the connectors have only one way to fit, so take a look closely instead of trying to ram them in. After that, I replaced the transformer. The new one is slightly skinnier than the original, but fits the same, connected the power supply clips and reassembles and igniters spark and LED works. I did not need to replace the spark module (video linked shows that depending on your troubleshooting). Youtube links: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8myU_ukFR0&list=WL&index=10&t=273s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiaFirwafIE&list=WL&index=11&t=630s

Once I removed all the burners, I could remove the stainless steel cover to access the transformer and switch harness. I had ordered a transformer, switch harness, and LED harness in case I needed all 3. I first replaced the switch harness. Unfortunately, there were no signs of current. I next replaced the transformer and my cooktop was alive again. In my case, I did not need to replace the LED harness.

After water spilled on the cooktop and leaked into the knobs, both the LED lights and spark ignition stopped working. After a little research, I determined the likely cause was a short in the switch which blew the transformer. I ordered both the switch harness and transformer (super-fast next day delivery at the standard rate!). The replacement was easy. I was a little nervous because the replacement switches are different from the original, but they all fit perfectly. The stovetop is working again - even better actually because I took the opportunity to clean all the burners and gas jets. Thanks!

Each part came with a video - great site. Prices are reasonable and parts are OEM. Would use them again.

Removed and replaced transformer and harness wire switches. First,(after unplugging cooktop) removed and cleaned all dripless burners. Then, removed and cleaned cooktop surface and insulating material. Swapped out old transformer and wiring harness with new parts. Reassembled everything. Plugged cooktop back in. Fired it up! Needed to use the right size Torx head to remove burners and a Hex head to remove screws securing transformer and wiring harness.