Ge WR02X11848 Drain Tube (Defrost) OEM Part

Replaced the drain pan below the evaporator coil (it was rusted to the point had a hole in it) and decided to replace both drain tubes since I had to open up the back panel. The video on the website was very helpful. Thanks!!

Replaced heavily corroded drip pan and partially clogged drain tube. Definitely take the time to spray coat the drip pan with cold-spray galvanized coating and caulk around the crimped spout. Go easy repositioning the evaporator to remove the old tray and install the new tray otherwise your easy diy job is going to become way more complicated because of broken refrigerant line

Fridge and Freezer temps were too warm. Temps would stabalize back down to 0 and 37 and then rise 5 degrees or so again. Finally one day temps continued to rise. Checked back of fridge and compressor was not kicking in. (Compressor was not hot or vibrating). I followed steps to diagnose and confirm that it was the inverter board and not the compressor. Replaced the board and compressor kicked on and temps have been stable ever since. I did have to replace the drain tube as it was so brittle it broke into pieces while replacing the inverter board. I also noticed that it had been cracked and dripping all along. Perhaps leading to a short in the inverter board. All is good and im glad it wasnt the compressor.

Investigated problem on-line and found several video references and troubleshooting steps to determine warming problem. Ran refrigerator on board diagnostics, which I did not know it had, all OK. Determined it was Inverter board, ordered part overnight, installed and Refrigerator Freezer back to normal. Drain hose installed.

I watched the online video and it was a simple fix.