Ge WH02X10265 Tub Bearing Split Ring OEM Part

I had never worked on a washing machine before but after watching the online videos I felt like I could do the repair. I was almost positive it was the Mode Shifter and Shaft Assembly that was bad. I could hear the bearing making a grinding noise when I turned the tub by hand. I ordered the part I needed plus additional parts that could be an issue later such as a drive belt, tub bearing, tub seal, tub nut, split ring, etc; Preventive maintenance that would keep from having to tear it all apart again if another part failed. Took photos with my phone and kept the repair video handy while I took everything apart. The only difficulties I had were getting the tub nut off and tub bearing out. After spraying the tub nut with WD40 and letting it soak for approx.. 30 minutes I finally got it broken loose. I used a tub spanner wrench that I ordered with the parts. I would not have been able to get it off without it. Videos showed prying the tub bearing out with two screwdrivers which as hard as I tried I could not do. I turned the tub over and used a socket the same diameter as the tub bearing and had to knock it out with a hammer which worked. I replaced all the parts which went smoothly and put it all back together with the use of the video and photos I took. The final result was the washer worked like a charm and the roaring noise during the spin cycle was now gone. It was a somewhat time consuming project but the outcome made it worthwhile. I would like to say that ordering the parts from AppliancePartsPros was very easy. Just search by model number for parts. I ordered the parts on Tuesday morning and they shipped the same day and arrived Thursday at lunch time. Very quick service. Repair up and running by Friday afternoon.

My 9-year-old GE washer, in which I replaced the motor two years ago, developed an extremely loud roaring sound during the spin cycle. After reviewing stories here to pinpoint the problem, I replaced the tub bearing, mode shifter, and tub seal. I also installed a new tub nut, split washer, and belt. This repair involves taking the washer apart in order to get at the tub bearing and mode shifter, which are inconveniently located in the very center of the machine. I bagged labeled all the screws and bolts as I disassembled everything and took lots of pictures using my phone of the "before" condition in case I needed to double-check which way wires were run, etc. I watched the repair video for the mode shifter and read through stories on here so I would be prepared. Almost everybody here had trouble with the tub nut and I was no exception - the tub nut was very corroded. I didn't even bother with the spanner wrench. Instead, I used a Milwaukee cordless impact wrench with a 1-11/16 socket I purchased on Amazon. How hard was the nut stuck on there? Well, I first used the mid-range Milwaukee impact wrench which is good for about 600 ft-lbs of breakaway power. It made a lot of racket but didn't dislodge the nut. I moved up to the big daddy Milwaukee which is good for 1400 ft-lbs of breakaway power. The nut was loosened after 5 or 6 impact blows. To remove the old tub bearing, I found it easiest to turn the tub upside down and drive the bearing out using a 1" socket on an extension. Much easier than trying to pry it out from the top. I think it's odd that no grease is called for on the mode shift shaft as it passes through the bearing. I didn't add any since I didn't see it mentioned. During reassembly, I installed a new belt which should be easier to install since you have access to everything out of the machine. The repair video obviously shows reinstalling the old belt. For the new, unstretched belt I had to use the belt-installation kit which fits on the motor drive shaft and zip tied the belt to the pulley in order to get it installed. Everything else went smoothly as shown in the repair video. It took me substantially longer than two hours, but I wasn't in a rush and I cleaned up all the parts before reassembly. I've run a few loads through and everything is nice and quiet again. Thank you AppliancePartsPros!

This is a well-documented problem. I ordered all the parts suggested by others - customer service assisted me along the way, taking plenty of time to be sure I got the right stuff. The main problem was the failed tub seal which had caused the bearing in the shaft assembly to fail. The videos for completing this repair are really good - you need to watch each one to not miss anything. As others have stated, the worst part is removing the hub nut. In my case the ($60.00) spanner tool probably would not have worked. I tried a short handled pipe wrench and a hammer but it didn't budge. so I simply drilled a hole on each side of the nut, keeping the bit close to the stem of the shaft assembly, then used a short chisel and hammer to split the nut and pop it out. In the later step to remove the tub bearing (really a bushing) I improvised a bearing puller using a 1 3/8in washer, a 3 1/2in bolt and nut through a piece of metal L-channel so no damage was created and old part was pulled cleanly. In putting everything back together, I found I could successfully tighten the new hub nut using a basin wrench (really inexpensive tool) and a hammer. After buttoning everything up, I ran a short water only cycle. There was a very loud screeching noise for a few seconds as the tub rotation began, but it went away and the cycle continued. Later, I ran a light wash and experienced a 2 or 3 second noise again. Subsequent wash cycles, no noise, all good. Customer service had not heard of this, and had no input but suggested I watch it, and let them know if it recurs. I am happy with my interaction with Appliance Parts Pros; not my first experience with them.

Replaced the mode shifter, seal, hub nut, split washer. The hub nut was difficult to remove even with the 1-11/16 inch hex spanner wrench that is needed. Using penetrating oil and sledge hammer. It would not budge. Then using a Dremel tool with small circular cutting blade for metal, it was easy to cut off a chunk of the nut (about 1/3 of the hex nut circumference, up to the shaft of the mode shifter}. This exposes the cross-section of the nut and easy to then drive CW to loosen with chisel and small hammer. (Choose the appropriate cross-section face of the nut to loosen, remember, it's a reverse thread). The split-nut may also break in two pieces-- cheap part, so just order anew one along with the mode shifter and hub nut. A replacement seal is provided along with the mode shifter, so don't bother trying remove the old seal by prying around the circumference which could gouge the hub affecting seal. Just pull it out easily with pliers to grasp it through the center hole. Clean up the hub surface for a good seal. The AppliancePartsPros videos are excellent! It makes it so much easier to confidently take on a project to save a washer from scrap. I supplemented the videos with a written numbered list of the sequence with numbered small plastic bags to hold all different hardware to make reassembly easy in reverse order. The washer is as good as new, and so quiet again. GE washers with the mode shifter are so quiet in operation compared to other models with conventional transmission.

The machine stopped working with a bang. There were chunks of large metal at the bottom. The drive plate had rusted through. My first step was to put a rag in the tub drain hole and save the pump. Except for grinding/chiseling off a frozen-corroded-rusty solid mass. The repair was rather easy. A couple of channel lock wrenches and a hammer didn't budge it. A monkey wrench will just round it off. You need that 1 11/6" wrench. The spindle nut was really stuck on there for my 14+ yo washer. I soaked it with penetrant for several days while waiting for the parts. Using a drill and cut-off wheel (wearing mask and glasses of course) cut four slits through the nut and then chisel it off clockwise in the direction of loosening. It will come out in pieces. You have to be very careful to avoid grinding too close to the drive spindle. Try to cut where the flat sides are. Stay on the safe side. After it's out, spray down the metal parts with WD-40 and wipe them off. Use a dental pick to clean the threads. Vacuum out the dust and wipe everything down with damp paper towels until it's very clean. It might be prudent to remove and clear out the water pump if any metal chunks got into it. Also, clean the inlet screen to get full water flow. Run a fill/spin cycle of hot water to rinse out the WD-40 and remaining contaminants. That odd-sized 1 11/16" wrench for the hub nut is almost impossible to find anywhere...except for local plumbing specialty stores which were closed..so I had to make my own tool from a couple of thin 3-way laundry wrenches from a box store. What a pain. I would suggest buying all the 'recommended' parts that go with the job. They are probably damaged as well and need replacing. Don't cheap out when for a few bucks more the result will be perfect and the machine will last so much longer.