How to Troubleshoot & Replace Ge AP4324356 / WH02X10265 Tub Bearing Split Ring

My 9-year-old GE washer, in which I replaced the motor two years ago, developed an extremely loud roaring sound during the spin cycle. After reviewing stories here to pinpoint the problem, I replaced the tub bearing, mode shifter, and tub seal. I also installed a new tub nut, split washer, and belt. This repair involves taking the washer apart in order to get at the tub bearing and mode shifter, which are inconveniently located in the very center of the machine. I bagged labeled all the screws and bolts as I disassembled everything and took lots of pictures using my phone of the "before" condition in case I needed to double-check which way wires were run, etc. I watched the repair video for the mode shifter and read through stories on here so I would be prepared. Almost everybody here had trouble with the tub nut and I was no exception - the tub nut was very corroded. I didn't even bother with the spanner wrench. Instead, I used a Milwaukee cordless impact wrench with a 1-11/16 socket I purchased on Amazon. How hard was the nut stuck on there? Well, I first used the mid-range Milwaukee impact wrench which is good for about 600 ft-lbs of breakaway power. It made a lot of racket but didn't dislodge the nut. I moved up to the big daddy Milwaukee which is good for 1400 ft-lbs of breakaway power. The nut was loosened after 5 or 6 impact blows. To remove the old tub bearing, I found it easiest to turn the tub upside down and drive the bearing out using a 1" socket on an extension. Much easier than trying to pry it out from the top. I think it's odd that no grease is called for on the mode shift shaft as it passes through the bearing. I didn't add any since I didn't see it mentioned. During reassembly, I installed a new belt which should be easier to install since you have access to everything out of the machine. The repair video obviously shows reinstalling the old belt. For the new, unstretched belt I had to use the belt-installation kit which fits on the motor drive shaft and zip tied the belt to the pulley in order to get it installed. Everything else went smoothly as shown in the repair video. It took me substantially longer than two hours, but I wasn't in a rush and I cleaned up all the parts before reassembly. I've run a few loads through and everything is nice and quiet again. Thank you AppliancePartsPros! 

This is a well-documented problem. I ordered all the parts suggested by others - customer service assisted me along the way, taking plenty of time to be sure I got the right stuff. The main problem was the failed tub seal which had caused the bearing in the shaft assembly to fail. The videos for completing this repair are really good - you need to watch each one to not miss anything. As others have stated, the worst part is removing the hub nut. In my case the ($60.00) spanner tool probably would not have worked. I tried a short handled pipe wrench and a hammer but it didn't budge. so I simply drilled a hole on each side of the nut, keeping the bit close to the stem of the shaft assembly, then used a short chisel and hammer to split the nut and pop it out. In the later step to remove the tub bearing (really a bushing) I improvised a bearing puller using a 1 3/8in washer, a 3 1/2in bolt and nut through a piece of metal L-channel so no damage was created and old part was pulled cleanly. In putting everything back together, I found I could successfully tighten the new hub nut using a basin wrench (really inexpensive tool) and a hammer. After buttoning everything up, I ran a short water only cycle. There was a very loud screeching noise for a few seconds as the tub rotation began, but it went away and the cycle continued. Later, I ran a light wash and experienced a 2 or 3 second noise again. Subsequent wash cycles, no noise, all good. Customer service had not heard of this, and had no input but suggested I watch it, and let them know if it recurs. I am happy with my interaction with Appliance Parts Pros; not my first experience with them. 

Replaced the mode shifter, seal, hub nut, split washer. The hub nut was difficult to remove even with the 1-11/16 inch hex spanner wrench that is needed. Using penetrating oil and sledge hammer. It would not budge. Then using a Dremel tool with small circular cutting blade for metal, it was easy to cut off a chunk of the nut (about 1/3 of the hex nut circumference, up to the shaft of the mode shifter}. This exposes the cross-section of the nut and easy to then drive CW to loosen with chisel and small hammer. (Choose the appropriate cross-section face of the nut to loosen, remember, it's a reverse thread). The split-nut may also break in two pieces-- cheap part, so just order anew one along with the mode shifter and hub nut. A replacement seal is provided along with the mode shifter, so don't bother trying remove the old seal by prying around the circumference which could gouge the hub affecting seal. Just pull it out easily with pliers to grasp it through the center hole. Clean up the hub surface for a good seal. The AppliancePartsPros videos are excellent! It makes it so much easier to confidently take on a project to save a washer from scrap. I supplemented the videos with a written numbered list of the sequence with numbered small plastic bags to hold all different hardware to make reassembly easy in reverse order. The washer is as good as new, and so quiet again. GE washers with the mode shifter are so quiet in operation compared to other models with conventional transmission. 

The machine stopped working with a bang. There were chunks of large metal at the bottom. The drive plate had rusted through. My first step was to put a rag in the tub drain hole and save the pump. Except for grinding/chiseling off a frozen-corroded-rusty solid mass. The repair was rather easy. A couple of channel lock wrenches and a hammer didn't budge it. A monkey wrench will just round it off. You need that 1 11/6" wrench. The spindle nut was really stuck on there for my 14+ yo washer. I soaked it with penetrant for several days while waiting for the parts. Using a drill and cut-off wheel (wearing mask and glasses of course) cut four slits through the nut and then chisel it off clockwise in the direction of loosening. It will come out in pieces. You have to be very careful to avoid grinding too close to the drive spindle. Try to cut where the flat sides are. Stay on the safe side. After it's out, spray down the metal parts with WD-40 and wipe them off. Use a dental pick to clean the threads. Vacuum out the dust and wipe everything down with damp paper towels until it's very clean. It might be prudent to remove and clear out the water pump if any metal chunks got into it. Also, clean the inlet screen to get full water flow. Run a fill/spin cycle of hot water to rinse out the WD-40 and remaining contaminants. That odd-sized 1 11/16" wrench for the hub nut is almost impossible to find anywhere...except for local plumbing specialty stores which were closed..so I had to make my own tool from a couple of thin 3-way laundry wrenches from a box store. What a pain. I would suggest buying all the 'recommended' parts that go with the job. They are probably damaged as well and need replacing. Don't cheap out when for a few bucks more the result will be perfect and the machine will last so much longer. 

Originally thought, based on reading and reviews, the banging was coming from a bad dampening strap. After a quick replacement, the noise was better but not completely fixed. Two loads later, the noise became ten times worse. Further investigation led to seeing the bearing on the Mode Shifter and Shaft Assembly was blown out. As another reviewer said, I think ultimately this is a result of a miniscule leak in the tub seal over time, rusting out the bearing and eventually causing it to go. Since the replacement is practically a 100% dismantle, I also ordered and replaced most things along the way – washers, seal, hub nuts, split rings, etc. After reading other reviews, I went ahead and also ordered the spanner wrench. Like most, some WD-40 and some cleaning up eventually let it come loose. The main struggle I had was that the spanner wrench on the site seemed to be about 1/11 too big. It wasn’t a direct fit, but ultimately did the job. From there, pretty simple and basic to disassemble/reassemble. I did add a bit of RTV sealant to the tub seal for added protection. The seal, although fit snuggly, wasn’t a perfect fit with years of use/wear on the tub assembly. About 20 loads in and no visible issues to date. All said and done, probably about a 2hr fix if you aren’t rushing through it. I spent the time to clean a bunch of the old parts that I was still using while they were available. All parts were easily identifiable and shipped quickly. The only issue I had, not related to AppliancePartsPros, was the new coupling pulsator had a manufacturing defect. About three of the grooves on the inside were misaligned, so it would not fit on the Mode Shifter Shaft Assembly. Ended up putting the old one back on. The part was $4 and not worth the cost to ship back and return. 

Ordered new transmission, nut, split washer and spanner wrench to do the install. very straight forward fix after watching the video. spanner wrench is a must or the correct large socket with an impact driver. it was corroded on pretty well let the liquid wrench work for a while and then beat it off. approximately 2 hours to do to fix, spent some time cleaning stuff up also though. washer was 12 years old and debated scrapping it and getting a new one but then it would not match the dryer. there really is not much in these washing machines. put a new belt on as well should be good for another 12 years. 

Rook everything apart v and then reassembled . The call center folks were fabulous and very helpful when ordering the parts! 

We had two problems at the same time. The washer was occasionally overflowing especially on super loads, and also leaking out the bottom, which got worse really fast. The overflow problem we have had before when the pressure switch hose became plugged with gunk, but cleaning the hose didn' fix it this time. The leak could be seen just above the trans. housing at the drum, so we diagnosed a bad seal. Knowing that the bearing would have to be running with water in it we also ordered the bearing and tub bearing washer. Also knowing Murphy's law we ordered the hub nut, the hub washer, and the split ring. Turned out the hub washer was broken, which may have contributed to the seal failure. We reluctantly also purchased the spanner wrench, not knowing what size the nut was. Turned out to be helpful in the long run. All the parts came in a couple days in one box. My son and I completed the repair in about an hour. Pretty simple deal. We replaced the pressure switch and hose also and now all is well. The trans shaft is corrode in the seal area, which we helped a little with some 600 wet sanding, so we anticipate the seal leak may return, and if it does a new trans will be needed. The washer has been running for several days now (we do a lot of laundry!) and so far so good. 

I had to order all items connected with tub bearing, such as tub seal, split ring, including the transmission. 

Replaced the transmission/brake, hub washer, split ring, nut and seal. Had to cut the hub nut off with a Dremel fiber blade as it was corroded on, split ring broke on disassembly. After putting it back together the tub seal was still leaking a little bit so took it apart again and used RTV silicon around the outer edge of the tub seal, worked fine after that.