Ge WH02X10383 Tub Seal OEM Part

I put this repair off for a long time because I knew the machine would have to be completely torn down to fix it. The repair videos give you the impression that this condition is caused by a bad 'Tub Bearing' which takes a long time to replace but only costs about $15. Don't be lulled into thinking you can fix this for $15. The 'Tub Bearing' is really only a bushing. The one I removed from my washer looked fine but I replaced it anyways. The real problem here is GE's poor design which allows a leaky 'Tub Seal', (about $8.) to wash the grease out of the 'Mode Shifter Bearing', causing the 'Mode Shifter Bearing' to fail. The 'Mode Shifter Bearing' is pressed into the 'Mode Shifter Assembly' (about $115.) and cannot be replaced without a bearing press. Furthermore the 'Mode Shifter Bearing' is not sold separately, so you are stuck replacing the entire 'Mode Shifter Assembly'. Fortunately The Appliance Parts Pros had all of the parts that I needed and shipped them out in no time at all. I opted for the 'slightly faster' shipping option, so for about $ 9. in shipping, I had my parts in two days. Amazing! The repair itself went fairly well. If I were to do it again I would probably invest in a 'Tub Wrench' and hope that it could remove the 'Hub Nut'. My 'Hub Nut' was frozen in place and would not come off, even when I tried a 1 11/16" socket, (which was really hard to find in itself). Perhaps if my socket was a 6 point it may have worked and then perhaps not. In the end my 'Hub Nut' was frozen in place. I tried a nut buster and heat, but nether worked. Given that the 'Hub Nut' is not steel, CLR or a Limeaway type product may have helped but in the end I had to cut the 'Hub Nut' off. Once the 'Hub Nut' was off, the rest of the repair went pretty smoothly. The system is now back in operation and running like the day we bought it. Note: The website did not tell me that the 'Mode Shifter Assembly' included a new 'Tub Seal', so I'll need to return the one that I had purchased separately. At this point, I am very satisfied with this repair and with Appliance Parts Pros.

This is a well-documented problem. I ordered all the parts suggested by others - customer service assisted me along the way, taking plenty of time to be sure I got the right stuff. The main problem was the failed tub seal which had caused the bearing in the shaft assembly to fail. The videos for completing this repair are really good - you need to watch each one to not miss anything. As others have stated, the worst part is removing the hub nut. In my case the ($60.00) spanner tool probably would not have worked. I tried a short handled pipe wrench and a hammer but it didn't budge. so I simply drilled a hole on each side of the nut, keeping the bit close to the stem of the shaft assembly, then used a short chisel and hammer to split the nut and pop it out. In the later step to remove the tub bearing (really a bushing) I improvised a bearing puller using a 1 3/8in washer, a 3 1/2in bolt and nut through a piece of metal L-channel so no damage was created and old part was pulled cleanly. In putting everything back together, I found I could successfully tighten the new hub nut using a basin wrench (really inexpensive tool) and a hammer. After buttoning everything up, I ran a short water only cycle. There was a very loud screeching noise for a few seconds as the tub rotation began, but it went away and the cycle continued. Later, I ran a light wash and experienced a 2 or 3 second noise again. Subsequent wash cycles, no noise, all good. Customer service had not heard of this, and had no input but suggested I watch it, and let them know if it recurs. I am happy with my interaction with Appliance Parts Pros; not my first experience with them.

Replaced the mode shifter, seal, hub nut, split washer. The hub nut was difficult to remove even with the 1-11/16 inch hex spanner wrench that is needed. Using penetrating oil and sledge hammer. It would not budge. Then using a Dremel tool with small circular cutting blade for metal, it was easy to cut off a chunk of the nut (about 1/3 of the hex nut circumference, up to the shaft of the mode shifter}. This exposes the cross-section of the nut and easy to then drive CW to loosen with chisel and small hammer. (Choose the appropriate cross-section face of the nut to loosen, remember, it's a reverse thread). The split-nut may also break in two pieces-- cheap part, so just order anew one along with the mode shifter and hub nut. A replacement seal is provided along with the mode shifter, so don't bother trying remove the old seal by prying around the circumference which could gouge the hub affecting seal. Just pull it out easily with pliers to grasp it through the center hole. Clean up the hub surface for a good seal. The AppliancePartsPros videos are excellent! It makes it so much easier to confidently take on a project to save a washer from scrap. I supplemented the videos with a written numbered list of the sequence with numbered small plastic bags to hold all different hardware to make reassembly easy in reverse order. The washer is as good as new, and so quiet again. GE washers with the mode shifter are so quiet in operation compared to other models with conventional transmission.

Rook everything apart v and then reassembled . The call center folks were fabulous and very helpful when ordering the parts!

We had two problems at the same time. The washer was occasionally overflowing especially on super loads, and also leaking out the bottom, which got worse really fast. The overflow problem we have had before when the pressure switch hose became plugged with gunk, but cleaning the hose didn' fix it this time. The leak could be seen just above the trans. housing at the drum, so we diagnosed a bad seal. Knowing that the bearing would have to be running with water in it we also ordered the bearing and tub bearing washer. Also knowing Murphy's law we ordered the hub nut, the hub washer, and the split ring. Turned out the hub washer was broken, which may have contributed to the seal failure. We reluctantly also purchased the spanner wrench, not knowing what size the nut was. Turned out to be helpful in the long run. All the parts came in a couple days in one box. My son and I completed the repair in about an hour. Pretty simple deal. We replaced the pressure switch and hose also and now all is well. The trans shaft is corrode in the seal area, which we helped a little with some 600 wet sanding, so we anticipate the seal leak may return, and if it does a new trans will be needed. The washer has been running for several days now (we do a lot of laundry!) and so far so good.