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Customer Questions and Answers for Dishwasher Control Board by Bosch

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Bosch
Part Number: OEM13304226
Manufacturer Part Number: 00676960

Fix a dishwasher that won't complete cycles or runs indefinitely with this control board. Controls all wash cycles and functions. 30-minute repair.

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Questions & Answers

For Bosch Dishwasher Control Board (Part Number: OEM13304226)

1 Answer

Christine, Each rinse cycle, the water temperature will get up to 156 degrees except in the quick wash which will only get to 140. Each of these cycles, power scrub plus, auto wash, regular wash and delicate/economy have the NSF (National Sanitation Foundation) certification. This is an excerpt from the owners manual for the NSF certification. THE NSF SYMBOL A dishwasher or a dishwasher cycle that has the NSF symbol has been certified by the NSF International to meet very strict requirements of wash time and water temperature to ensure dishware and kitchenware sanitization. These requirements are explained in the document NSF/ANSI 184, Residential Dishwashers. More information on NSF Certification is available at the NSF website, http://www.nsfconsumer.org/home/ appliances.asp Your dishwasher is NSF certified. The dishwasher cycles that are NSF certified are shown in the chart above. When these cycles are complete, the “Sanitized” indicator on your dishwasher control panel will illuminate. NOTE: If your household water supply is too hot, your dishwasher’s heating time may be reduced and the “Sanitized” light or symbol may not illuminate. Your Dishwasher Installation Manual has information on the recommended temperature for your household hot water supply

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Derek for Model Number Bosch - She44c05uc/40

usually the normal load washing time takes about 35 to 45 minutes. Recently the normal loads increased to 58 minutes and it shows on display as soon as I turned on the dishwasher. Once the dishwasher starts it goes all the way to one minutes and stay there for quite sometime before it goes back to 143 minutes and start rewashing the same load again. I have to cancel and drain the water all the time to stop the dishwasher. The water in the dishwasher is not hot anymore and the dishes are not clean either. Can you help? Thanks Derek

1 Answer

Hello Derek. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the control module is bad and will need to be replaced.

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John E. for Model Number Bosch Dishwasher SHE44C06UC/22

Dishwasher seems to run normally but timer clicks down to 1 minute and continues to run. I can cancel and drain. Rinse and hold runs fine, fills, runs and drains. But short-wash does not drain nor stop -- runs down to 1 minute and continues to run ---- and run times have increased from avg 29 mintues to 39 - 43 minutes. Incoming water temp is 128 degrees. Red heater wire from control module puts out 120 volts after a few minutes and continues throughout the cycle. Amp meter on the red wire reads initially 4+ amps but drops to below 2 amps in a few minutes throughout cycle. Bypassing the heater wire (made up a 'y' fitting to provide power to black/grey wire connector to module and continuous 120 volts to red wire) --- amp reading to heater red wire is still just below 2 amps. Ending water temp in washer is about 106 degrees. Do I have a bad control module, heater or ?

1 Answer

John, You most likely have an issue with the water heater and or sensor, based on your post. If the water temp. is low, or doesn't increase during the wash cycle, the control will act irratic, and at the end of the cycle will have water and "stall" with 1 minute in the display, while the ontrol attempts to check and re calibrate itself. The easiest way to check for this is to start a cycle and wait 3 to 5 minutes, and check the water temp. the temperature should increase by two(2) degrees per minute, so you'll need to do several checks or use a multimeter with a temperature probe. If the temperature doesn't increase properly, replace the heater assembly 00480317.

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1 Answer

Hello Steve. It sounds like water is leaking into the bottom of the unit and is causing it to raise the float on the unit and continue to run. Look for water in the base of the unit and if so, find the leak in the bottom of the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Jeff, Before you start, kill the power supply to the unit and verify no voltage is present to the machine. Start at the power connection on the machine. Remove the kick panel and the cover where the wire nuts are located. Check to make sure the wire nuts are tight and both wires are securely in the nuts. If this checks out good, the next check is at the door switches inside the door panel. Check these for continuity and don't forget they show open unless you mash the button on the switch. Mashing the little button should give you continuity. If not, replace the door switch. Now go to the power button and make sure it shows continuity when activated. Check the float switch in the same manner also. If all of these test satisfactorily, momentarily power up the unit and test at the board for 120Vac. Remember that the door switches and the power switch have to be activated. This is best done by simply closing the door and mashing the on switch. Now you should have voltage to the board. If you have voltage to the board and the unit will not start, check for voltage leaving the board. If there is only voltage on one terminal, this is an indication of a bad board since if the board sends power out to any components, you will read this voltage on another terminal. If voltage is on one terminal, the board will require replacement.

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1 Answer

Hello Bill. You will need to check and see if there is water building up in the bottom of the unit, causing the pump to saty on. If so, there is either a hose leaking, or the water valve 00607335 needs to be replaced on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Dotti, If a part on the control board 00676960 is burned, the control will have to be replaced. I would check the unit for a short before putting the new part on. To check for a short, remove the kick panel and the cover for the power supply connection. Disconnect the black wire and check from the black wire on the unit to chassis. You should show a very high resistance. If you show less than 100 ohms to ground, you probably have a short that wiped the control. If not, the control was the whole issue.

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