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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Compressor Relay And Overload Kit by Frigidaire

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Frigidaire
Part Number: OEM17071233
Manufacturer Part Number: 5304491584

This kit includes the start relay and overload protector that help the compressor motor start and run properly. The relay provides the initial electrical boost to get the compressor running, while the overload protector shuts it off if it draws too much current or overheats. Replace this kit if the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling, the compressor clicks on and off repeatedly, or you hear a buzzing sound coming from the back of the unit.

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Questions & Answers

For Frigidaire Refrigerator Compressor Relay And Overload Kit (Part Number: OEM17071233)

1 Answer

Arch, Yes, the compressor winding pins are equally spaced and in a triangle or pyramid shape. the pin at the top of the triangle is the "common" pin and supplies power to both the start and run windings. However the new start device [AP5690408} will only fit on one way, properly. The easiest way to determine the proper position is to look at the start device, the two horizontal slots on the bottom of the start device will be on the bottom, closest to the base of the refrigerator, when installed properly. The capacitor has an opening that will slide onto and down the pin/stud on the outer case and the two terminals will slide into the slots and lock into place on the start device.

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1 Answer

Roy, If there is ice in the icemaker but not dumping then this will most likely be caused by either the temperature not being correct in the freezer or the icemaker itself is faulty.

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1 Answer

HM, The terminal that is closest to the center of the relay will be the Neutral and the outer terminal will be the L1.

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John for Model Number Kenmore 253.21741106

Kenmore standup frost free freezer. Compressor won't turn off, even during a defrost cycle. Inside temp hovers around -8 degrees F in a hot garage. Door seal is good. Evap fan runs good. No temperature regulation no matter where the user temp control is set, the compressor just stays on. (You can however turn the compressor completely off using the temperature control in the OFF position, so I know there is continuity in that signal line.) Replaced the main microcontroller board unit and temperature sensor, no luck. Rheostat that sets the temperature checks out on an ohmmeter OK, roughly 0 - 7K ohms. Defrost element works fine, whole system pulls about 5 amps during defrost cycle, as expected, but again, the compressor never turns off, even during the defrost cycle. Normal power draw is about 110 Watts, the compressor seems to be working fine. Could this compressor relay be stuck closed, forcing the system to run continuously? The yellow power LED by the door handle works, but the Quick Freeze and Temp Alarm/off buttons/LEDs do not seem to be working - maybe that is part of the problem? Thanks in advance for your help

1 Answer

John, The relay on the compressor would most likely not stick closed causing the compressor to continuously run. The more likely cause would be the control board under the back of the unit because this is what will dictate operation during normal run and defrost. Although you have already replaced the control board it may be that the thermostat in the freezer is causing the issue.

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1 Answer

Sorry Bill. The manufacturer does not list the differences between the 2 controllers on the unit. The specs are not offered. You will need to contact them for this information. Thank you.

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Oscar A. C for Model Number 25321421104

I have been reading some of the questions n answers in order to answer my own? I copied n pasted some of the ?'s because they r the same as mine . I have a Sears Kenmore upright freezer that quit working after a power outage. I think it's the compressor controller. To replace Compressor Controller (216649313), I ordered Part # AP5690408 to replace it;I received the part yesterday, but I have a problem. My wires are Yellow and White coming from the freezer and I do not know which wire should go to which terminal on the new controller. The new controller does not have any label for N or L like in the old part, only two white wires on the new harness. There's a big green dot on the side of the new controller ,which several people have asked about. In one response, the neutral terminal ( white wire) is said to be the closest to the center and in another the hot wire (L) is said to be the furthest from the edge or closest to the center. Please clarify. Hope you can help, thanks

1 Answer

Oscar, Plug up the wire harness that came with the part and the outer most wire will connect to the yellow wire and the white will go to the other.

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1 Answer

Hello Barbara, If the compressor required a capacitor with the other relay and overload, it will still require the capacitor. The part you were viewing is a start device which includes both the overload and relay built into the device. For more detailed information, please post a new question including the model number from the units' I.D. tag. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.

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Katie for Model Number FFU17FC4CW1

I replaced the original controller with the new version. I may have an issue. It appears the compressor is now running constantly. My original wires are yellow and white. On the original part, the yellow sits below the white and the yellow is slightly more to the outside. The controller attached to the compressor with the capacitor sitting at the bottom. When I went to put in the new controller, the pin holes are opposite what the old piece was, so I took a guess and flipped the new one.(pins are equidistant from each other, so no definite orientation?). Did I confuse my hot/neutral wires or is the controller oriented incorrectly? Thanks!

1 Answer

Katie, The L1 is the yellow wire and should be on the bottom terminal and the white is neutral and should be on the terminal closest to the center.

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Katie for Model Number FFU17FC4AW0

Lady in distress. Awful smell in the garage where the freezer is; heard sizzle noise every so often. Laid with a flashlight and watched for awhile. It appears that the issue is with part 216649318. When (compressor?) kicks on, there is smoke coming from around the wires where they enter the part (white wire for sure, but maybe both). There appears to be some melted plastic at the top of the part, just below the wire brace. What all do I need to replace? Never had to mess with a freezer before. Of course, freezer is completely full. :(

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