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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Temperature Sensor by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM9556230
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10025

Fix uneven cooling or defrost issues with a new temperature sensor. Most DIYers complete this repair in under an hour with basic tools and our video.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Refrigerator Temperature Sensor (Part Number: OEM9556230)

1 Answer

Donna, Check and ensure the refrigerator is level, the freezer door is closing and sealing properly when closed. You also want to check and make sure there are no articles hanging over, or out of the freezer shelves, blocking or disrupting the air flow to the temperture sensor located on the upper right wall of the freezer compartment.

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1 Answer

Jose, You will want to do a resistance check on your thermistor to make sure that it is within range. The ranges should be 62.79K ohms at 0 degrees, 24.48K at 37 degrees and 10K at 77 degrees. If outside of range replace. If within range replace the control board.

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1 Answer

Hello Rick. The model number you provided is not correct. It sounds like the temp control is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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Carlos L for Model Number GSF25IGXBBB

My freezer coils continue to freeze on my GE side by side refrigerator causing the refrigerator temperature to rise. I have replaced the defrost thermostat, the heater and the mother board, but still have the same problem with the coils freezing. Also, before the coils freeze, the temperature fluctuates plus or minus 7 degrees even though it is set for 0 and 37 degrees. What else could be causing the freezer coils to freeze if I have already replaced the three listed parts?

1 Answer

Carlos, You would need to replace the defrost thermistor WR55X10025. You may also want to check your freezer thermistor which is the same part number for resistance. It sounds like the thermistors are faulty.

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Luis for Model Number psh25mstasv

The freezer seems to work just fine, but the fridge will not go below 55 degree. It seems like the when the freezer is running the cooling element in the fridge gets cold, however when the freeezer turns off the fan in the fridge cooling compartment keeps going but seems to stop cooling. In order to get the fridge down to the appropriate range, I have to continually open the freezer door. Shouldn't the fridge be able to draw the coolant into the element without the the freezer running as well?

1 Answer

Hello Jen. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the unit needs a dispenser heater kit WR49X10173 installed into the unit.

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1 Answer

Lisa, To test the motherboard you would check for resistance and dc voltage for the thermistors. It is not necessary to replace the main board if the thermistors are faulty but if the control board is bad then it would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello Ray, This sounds like the unit may just need the settings adjusted a bit. The freezer should be set one setting warmer and the fresh food side should be set one setting colder. This will increase air circulation and prevent the temperatures from varying so drastically. The water tank is most likely frozen because the bottom of the fresh food compartment will get too clod if the unit doesn't circulate the air sufficiently.

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1 Answer

Paul, Yes, it could potentially be the sensor. Since you have already replaced the limiter and heater, you could check each of them to see if they were defective by doing a continuity check on them. If they do not have continuity then they were bad. If they do have continuity then replace sensor.

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