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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Timer Resistor by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM6133284
Manufacturer Part Number: WE4M255

Fix a dryer timer that won't advance or automatic cycles that stopped working. This timer resistor regulates cycle duration. Easy 15-minute repair.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Dryer Timer Resistor (Part Number: OEM6133284)

1 Answer

George, With the unit not shutting off on its own, this would be a stuck relay on control board. The part number that is needed would be WE4M488.

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Mark for Model Number DBSR453EB3WW

Most units I test have exhaust temp at rear around 200 deg F +, the highest temp I got on this unit is only 181 deg F. Also it stopped and blew the breaker on timed dry low heat at around 50 on the dial. Do you think the two are related? I have had two coil heating elements give me lower heat then normal but dont cause breaker to blow unless eliment touches shield. I have also had low heat from cycle thermostat cycling to low. Any help would be thankful.

1 Answer

Mark, Based on the information, the exhaust temperature on this unit would not be 200 degrees and should not be 180. based on the tech sheet the outlet thermistor will open at 135 degrees. This would be indicative of a faulty outlet thermistor which would need to be replaced.

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Deb for Model Number GLDP280ED0WS

Our dryer is less than 2 years old. It stopped working. The timer dial seemed to not work properly and the start button would not turn it on. I looked on line for guidance and saw that we should test the timer to see if it was working. After finding that it was not working, we ordered a new timer and installed it. Everything worked when we tested it. We were feeling very clever! When we put wet clothes in and tried to start it, it once again would not work. I sure hate to call in a repairman, but we don't know what else to do. Did something short out the new timer? What do we do next?

1 Answer

Deb, With the unit not wanting to start after installing the new timer, you will want to check the door switch to make sure that the door is making good contact with it and that it has continuity when in the closed position. If not then the switch is bad and would need to be replaced.

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Jim Young for Model Number DPSR610EG4WT

GE Profile Clothes Drier (5-yr. old)...The timer moves normally in the time mode but won't advance in the other 3 automatic modes...Heat levels seem to be fine - no obviously problems...Also cleaned vent and ran with disconnected...No remedy...Thought it had to be the timer so I replaced it...Did not fix the situation...Also the timer signal doesn't work (never used it except during this test) but thought it may be connected to the timer advancing problem...Any thoughts would be appreciated...Thanks...Jim

1 Answer

Jim, The dryness control board would cause the timer to not advance during the auto cycle and will cause the chime to not work. The dryness board receives a signal from the sensor bars that tell it to send power to the timer to advance the motor. The board would most likely be the cause for the failure part number WE04X10102.

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Mihran for Model Number GE Dryer DBXR463EB0WW

After 10 years of use, our dryer in the last few weeks has not been drying the loads very well. Last weekend I opened up the dryer and cleaned the vent areas, replaced the vent pipe. I also checked the heating elements and the coils are glowing fine. When the dryer is running, I touch the vent pipe and it gets warm. So, I am thinking the air flow seems to be ok. One thing is that a few weeks ago my wife said she smelled something burning and after that we have been having these issues. Since the heating coils and the motor seem to be working, I am wondering if the timer resistor may have gone bad and need replacing. On the automatic timer settings we have problems with the drying. My wife was able to dry on just setting the timer, but yesterday she said even using the timer, after 50 minutes it wasn't drying properly. Any ideas or help would be appreciated. Thanks.

1 Answer

Hello Mihran. If the unit is heating, you have to have a vent issue. Checl the blower wheel and the inside of the dryer venting for clogs. Also, try running dryer without the vent hooked to it.

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Justin for Model Number dbsr453eb2ww

So I finish a flawless repair on restringing the heater element and and almost home free in fact I was already there until I had the keep the start button from moving bc the tab wasn't dropped in slot. So as the machine was plugged in I ,chose to forget and be an idiot and low and behold. I take off hex screws push the cover over and almost fried the machine and myself. Sparks flew out or timer switch and I was convinced I shorted it. . So I'm ready to lose my cool thinking I just blew up the amazing repair job. Well not quite ,everything seems to look good I cleaned the wire terminal the seem to have smoke residue on it and put the knob cluster back on the dryer and way-lah! I turned start and this thing drys like a champ. The only thing is the timer use to turn the machine on and now it's gonna keep going without the ability to cut off unless I open door. That mean no more leaving clothes to dry with out being her for surveillance. Is the there a fix for this that does involve replacing the factory timer that is 85$ if so any recommendations would be appreciated. I looked on amazon and can seem to know what the actual part number is until I take

1 Answer

Hello Justin. Yes, that would be the timer and it would need to be replaced on the unit.

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1 Answer

This doesn't sound like the dryers' fault at all since the clothes can be air fluffed dry with no heat at all in a couple of hours time. This has to be a ducting issue. You see, the heat doesn't dry the clothes. If the heat dried the clothes, you could put them in the microwave and have them done in a few minutes. All this will get you though is hot, wet, clothes. The air flow is what actually carries the moisture away from the clothes. The heat is an assistance to the air flow so the air flow can more easily carry the moisture away from the clothes. If the unit has an air flow restriction, the thermostats will quick cycle and will take a long time to reset and turn the heating element back on. This always makes the customer think the unit isn't drying properly. Even if the unit has worked in the installation for a long time, this is no indication that there hasn't been a change with the ducting. The first thing I would do is check outside at the flapper door. If the flapper cannot open, or if there is a screen at the flapper that is stopped up, this will cause the issue. If the ducting is flexible, it can fill with water under the house or the flex duct can be crimped behind the unit if the unit has been pushed back against the wall. The exhaust cannot exceed the equivalent of 25 feet. What this means is that each 90° elbow slows the air flow the same as 6 feet of straight ducting. So, you have to add 6 feet at every 90° turn plus the straight footage. The dryer drum is riding on felt seals. If a little too much back pressure is built up, the lint, heat, and moisture will simply blow past the drum seals back into the cabinet. This is actually where the air is taken into the unit and also where the thermostats are located. This causes the thermostats to open prematurely and this will extend the dry cycle. The exhaust should be a 4 inch diameter rigid, non-flexible aluminum duct that is as short and straight as possible. You see, the shorter and straighter the duct is, the faster and easier it is for the unit to rid itself of the heat, lint, and moisture and the clothes will dry faster, the unit will use less electricity, and the dryer will last you longer since it isn't running a long time putting wear on the mechanical and electrical parts. All manufacturers strongly recommend against the flexible ducting whether it is plastic or the foil type. The flexible ducting crimps off the air flow too much when the unit is pushed back into place. It also holds lint which, when ignited, goes off like flash paper and will cherry inside the duct. The flexible duct will just melt through, (yes, even the foil type will just melt), and then you have the lint "cherryed up" in the floor behind the dryer or in the crawlspace.

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