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Customer Questions and Answers for Main Pcb Power Control Board Assembly by Lg

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Lg
Part Number: OEM13353072
Manufacturer Part Number: EBR36858801

Questions & Answers

For Lg Main Pcb Power Control Board Assembly (Part Number: OEM13353072)

1 Answer

Hello Zoran, the manufacturer has discontinued this part, and it is no longer available, there is no substitute available. The manufacturer has not released that transformer voltage spec information,.If the transformer has actually failed then it overloaded due to a failure (overload/short) elsewhere on the board.

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1 Answer

WJRose, With the unit not coming on at all it does sound like the issue will be cause by a faulty control board.

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1 Answer

Harold, With this issue it would be caused by a faulty control board if when you close the door it start rotating immediately.

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1 Answer

Erika, There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue. If there is 120 vac at each point then the heater is faulty.

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David S for Model Number LG Dryer DLE5955G

HI, I have a brand new LG Dryer DLE5955G, that I ship it overseas... When I was there, I connected the power cable to it (the big one with 4 wires that I ship it too from US) I plugged the power cable as follow: (4 wires: (the voltage between black wire & white wire was: 220V), ( the voltage between the Red wire and the white wire was: 220V), and the Green wire was for the ground)... Then, I pushed the Start button on, the dryer turned on fine for about 5 seconds then turned off by it self... Since then I couldn't turn the dryer on... Please tell me what was the problem? is it the voltage that need to be 110V instead? and what part(s) that has been damaged, and what should be done to get it fix? Thank you so much in advance for your quick answer..

1 Answer

David, There is an adapter that you would need to allow the unit to operate off 440 vac 50 hz as opposed to 240vac 60 hz. By connecting without the the adapter to convert the power, the control board is now bad and would need to be replaced.

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Alex P for Model Number Dryer DLE5955G

I need a help with the dryer outlet. I made the change to 4-pin socket for electric power at 220V. I put a 32-amp dedicated breaker. Unfortunately I forgot to make the switch from electric scheme in the dryer 3-pin to 4-pin socket and plugged in to take the test and departed the power button and did not call. I remembered that he had not altered electric scheme and made the change. The dryer is not turning. With this failure which may have damaged parts?

1 Answer

Alex, Once you correct the wiring on the unit if it still not working then you more than likely shorted a thermal fuse or possibly the control board.

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1 Answer

Don, You're needing a new control board, but you probably realized that. Any damaged to a control board or any component on the board will require a replacement. The oozing liquid, would indicate the voltage capacitor has failed, and that's usually due to some type of voltage "spike", or ongoing electrical power supply issue. The damaged component would explain why the light works, but the control won't . Thanks and Good Luck

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1 Answer

Hi Anton. Remove the power. Remove the top by removing the three T-20 torque screws on the back of the cover . Slide the top back and up to remove it. Look at the incoming wires and see if they are all clean and tight at the terminal block. I would use a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist. you in your diagnosis. You need 240 vac to the outer 2 of the terminal block and 120 vac from each end to the middle neutral terminal. Use the Supplied tech. diagnostic sheet to put the unit in a diagnostic mode to find the direct fault code. After you find a code then we can help decipher a part needed. Thank You.

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