Steve March 11, 2021 for Model Number DLEY1201V The dryer doesn't have any heat. It has 240 volts coming to it. I opened it up, checked heater, thermostat, fuse, blower thermostat for continuity. They all have continuity. What else can cause it to not heat up? Control board or motor?
1 Answer Steve, if the blower thermistor 6323EL2001B measures 10O of resistance, the heater relays would be tested. If the top panel of the dryer is removed, the main control EBR76210903 relays can be accessed for testing. One of the heater relays will have a black wire and a yellow wire which will be used for testing. With a meter probe at each wire as they are installed on the relay, the dryer would need to be started while set to high heat. If the voltage reads 0VAC, this would indicate a failure in the motor 4681EL1008A. If the voltage reads 240VAC, this would indicate a failure in the main control. Read More...
Joe F September 09, 2020 for Model Number DLEY1201W My dryer will not tumble. It heats and works normally otherwise. I’ve watched many of your videos (very helpful!). It have the unit disassembled. The belt is connected, taut and fine. The rollers freely move with no noises. I don’t hear any humming or noise at all from drive motor. Even if I let the unit sit for a long time, the drum will not move but freely moves by hand. When I hit run, I do hear clicking initially from PCB board. The cycle counts down but no drum movement. Do I need a new drive motor or PCB board?
1 Answer Joe, It is very possible the door switch is faulty and acting as if the door was open. EBF61496102 This part can be tested for continuity when depressed. Read More...
Brian August 18, 2019 for Model Number Dley1201w Unit doesn’t shut off unless I open door or pull plug. Unit starts to work when started, heats clothes, drys them, cools them , lights go out on display but tumbler keeps running. Main circuit panel board bad?
1 Answer Brian, the most likely issue is that the motor relay on the main control EBR76210903 is stuck in the closed position. This can be tested by testing for 120VAC at connection WH4 pin 3 (brown wire). If there is 120VAC showing at this wire, then the relay is stuck and the main control would need to be replaced. Another test that can be done instead of a voltage test would be to unplug the unit and test from the incoming L1 black wire to the brown wire at connection WH4 for continuity. If there is continuity the relay has failed. Read More...