Fred January 17, 2022 for Model Number KSRS25IHSS00 Lights inside the freezer and refrigerator turn on when you open doors, but the compressor is not running and the condenser fan is not running. There is no power going to either one. I replaced the freezer thermostat still no change. Ran the electronic defrost control test mode and still, nothing happened. Was thinking of replacing the defrost control but wanted to make sure that this will fix the problem. Help didn't want to keep replacing parts on trial and error.
Ronald R. July 02, 2017 for Model Number KSRS251 My ice maker stopped dispensing ice. The motor that spins the ice rod works fine but the gear cogs have worn out.
1 Answer Hello Ronald, This design is not available as an assembly. You will need to tear down the old one and determine what parts are needed and order those parts from the parts explosion. The most common cause of a "stripped gear" complaint is actually caused by a warped door liner. I'm sorry but we will need to ask you to post a new question including the model number from your units' I.D. tag so we can recommend parts that can be guaranteed to work properly on your unit. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter. Read More...
Mg November 08, 2016 for Model Number 10659592993 Came home to a thawed freezer. At first, I wasn't sure if it the door was accidentally left cracked. Evaporator fan was blowing, but it was not cold for a freezer. This happened before, and I ended up paying $200 for a 5-minute job where they replaced the start relay/overload protector. Bought a back-up for future use. I kept the original for future reference as well. I open the back of the fridge. Look for the Start/overload device. The original and 1st replacement were a combined unit. relay. There were 3 colored wires, 2 white (which were joined as they were connected to the start relay--the other ends went to the run capacitor and the fan harness), red (connected to the overload protector), and a blue wire that was connected to the run capacitor, but not the start relay. It was just hanging loose. At first I thought it had jiggled loose from the years of vibration from the compressor. I pulled the start relay off. I shook it. NO rattle. As I examined the the start relay, there was an open slot (#4), but I did not see a spade terminal (like in slot 1 or the overload slot). Then I thought it must have broken off and part of it should be in the blue wire connector. Didn't see anything. Looked at the start relay again. I can see a small metal strip at the bottom of slot #4, but not enough where something can be attached to it. I opened up the casing, and that metal piece was smooth (i.e. nothing had broken off). Anyway, I went to install the new device. Now the start relay and overload protector are 2 separate pieces. The overload had one terminal and followed the instructions to attach the red wire to it (the other end of the wire went to the fan harness). The relay had 3 terminals in spots 1 & 2 on the start side, and 3 on the run side. I use the jumper in the kit to attach the 2 white wires to the terminal 2; I put the terminal cover on terminal 1; and I attach the blue wire to terminal 3. Attached the back cover of the fridge. Plugged it in. The condenser, condenser fan, and the evaporator fan fired up. Freezer started cooling again. A few hours later it was approaching 0*F. At some point, the condenser fan and condenser turned off. Evaporator fan was blowing. Freezer was slowly warming up to 40*F. At first I thought it was the defrost cycle. I manually turned the defrost timer, until it clicked (defrost on)...then I advanced past the second click (defrost off). Condenser and Fan started up and the freezer started cooling again to 0*F. A few hours later it, condenser and condenser fan were off and freezer was warming again to 40+*F (evap fan on). I close the freezer door, then the condenser and fan turn on and cool the freezer again to 0*. When it was still cold, I opened up the back panel inside the freezer, and there was a thin layer of frost evenly throughout the coils. No frost build up at the copper line at the top. No bulge in the bi-metal thermostat. Things seem to work when the compressor and fan are on. I'm assuming it either shuts off because it reaches a desired temp or it hits the defrost cycle. The problem is that it doesn't automatically turn back on. I have to do some sort of manual thing (whether intentional or accidental) and things start back up. Is there something wrong with the start relay? Should I try replacing with another one? I understand that some fridges do not have run capacitor (instructions said to use the terminal cover if there was no run capacitor. I've read elsewhere that the run side of the relay is not important). As I mentioned, in the previous replacement, they did not attach the blue wire at all. Is this a normal practice? Should I un-hook it from this current replacement? This current replacement has 3 terminals on the start relay, 2 on the start side, 1 on the run side. What is the second terminal for on the start side? Is it so that the white wires can be connected separately instead of joined? (one white wire went to the run capacitor, and one to the fan harness) I tested the prongs on the compressor. Start/Common 4 ohms Run/Common 3 ohms Start/Run 6 ohms It's hard to see the run capacitor behind the compressor. From what I can see, there are no bulges.
1 Answer MG, For this issue if it starts warming up approximately every 8 hours then it sounds like the issue will be with the defrost timer sticking in defrost cycle. The other possibility would be a faulty thermostats. Read More...
Wayne Bonner December 31, 2015 for Model Number kenmore 253.9287413 I am ordering the compressor start kit. My old capacitor has a wire with a clip on it. Where do I attach this. Is my new capacitor going to have the same wire and clip, It does not show that on the video, Thank you
1 Answer Wayne, If the capacitor on the original overload/relay assembly was mounted to the assembly then it would not be necessary to use the capacitor with this kit. If the capacitor is separate with wires running from it to the overload relay then you would connect the wires to the relay. You can just hook up the overload and relay without the use of the capacitor. Read More...
Roger September 02, 2015 for Model Number Kenmore Elite model #50592003 Where do I plug in the two wires from the capacitor; blue wire and white wire? The video doesn't show where to plug in the two wire capacitor; blue wire and white wire., and the start switch has only two male prongs, instead of three like the old start switch.
1 Answer Hello Roger. It does not matter where the blue or white goes. It will work fine either way. The relay has 2 prongs and the overload has 1 to give you the 3 your looking for. Thanks. Read More...
Rick August 31, 2015 for Model Number Whirlpool ED25UEXHW01 No cooling either side. Powers up, fan on. Compressor clicks when trying to start. No capacitor visible, just red & white wires to startup kit (which doesn't match your part pictures). Is the compressor dead? If so, how do I dispose of the refrigerator? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Rick. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/193358-freezer-fridge-not-cooling.html Read More...
Matt August 26, 2015 for Model Number LMX25981ST I have an Lg fridge that the compressor relay and overload went bad and read the whirlpool part number AP3873993 will work with mine since Lg doesnt make the part anymore. My question is that my LG relay had a capacitor and this set up doesn't have one. does that mean I dont need one now with the whirlpool one. my Lg fridge is model number LMX25981ST
1 Answer Hello Matt. You can wire the capacitor into the system or run it without the capacitor. Read More...
1 Answer Hello Erika. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/193358-freezer-fridge-not-cooling.html Read More...
Cosme June 02, 2015 for Model Number MF12568AEW maytag My fridge was not cold both freezer. There is power and fan is working. I didn't here sounds from the compressor.
1 Answer Hello Cosme. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/193358-freezer-fridge-not-cooling.html Read More...
Tom May 30, 2015 I have Whirlpool ET0W SRXMQ00 top freezer/bottom fridge. Rattling noise coming from behind inside panel in freezer. No cooling in either. Replaced overload and relay with parts from your website. Parts representatives were very helpful. Capacitor leads (one blue with white letters and one solid blue) do not fit on new relay that was sent. I left capacitor disconnected. No change in performance. Fan blows. Light is on. Compressor does not start. Do you have other suggestions? Thank you.
1 Answer Tom, You will want to check to see if there is power getting to the overload relay. If there is power then the compressor would most likely be the issue. Read More...