Mg for Model Number 10659592993 Came home to a thawed freezer. At first, I wasn't sure if it the door was accidentally left cracked. Evaporator fan was blowing, but it was not cold for a freezer. This happened before, and I ended up paying $200 for a 5-minute job where they replaced the start relay/overload protector. Bought a back-up for future use. I kept the original for future reference as well. I open the back of the fridge. Look for the Start/overload device. The original and 1st replacement were a combined unit. relay. There were 3 colored wires, 2 white (which were joined as they were connected to the start relay--the other ends went to the run capacitor and the fan harness), red (connected to the overload protector), and a blue wire that was connected to the run capacitor, but not the start relay. It was just hanging loose. At first I thought it had jiggled loose from the years of vibration from the compressor. I pulled the start relay off. I shook it. NO rattle. As I examined the the start relay, there was an open slot (#4), but I did not see a spade terminal (like in slot 1 or the overload slot). Then I thought it must have broken off and part of it should be in the blue wire connector. Didn't see anything. Looked at the start relay again. I can see a small metal strip at the bottom of slot #4, but not enough where something can be attached to it. I opened up the casing, and that metal piece was smooth (i.e. nothing had broken off). Anyway, I went to install the new device. Now the start relay and overload protector are 2 separate pieces. The overload had one terminal and followed the instructions to attach the red wire to it (the other end of the wire went to the fan harness). The relay had 3 terminals in spots 1 & 2 on the start side, and 3 on the run side. I use the jumper in the kit to attach the 2 white wires to the terminal 2; I put the terminal cover on terminal 1; and I attach the blue wire to terminal 3. Attached the back cover of the fridge. Plugged it in. The condenser, condenser fan, and the evaporator fan fired up. Freezer started cooling again. A few hours later it was approaching 0*F. At some point, the condenser fan and condenser turned off. Evaporator fan was blowing. Freezer was slowly warming up to 40*F. At first I thought it was the defrost cycle. I manually turned the defrost timer, until it clicked (defrost on)...then I advanced past the second click (defrost off). Condenser and Fan started up and the freezer started cooling again to 0*F. A few hours later it, condenser and condenser fan were off and freezer was warming again to 40+*F (evap fan on). I close the freezer door, then the condenser and fan turn on and cool the freezer again to 0*. When it was still cold, I opened up the back panel inside the freezer, and there was a thin layer of frost evenly throughout the coils. No frost build up at the copper line at the top. No bulge in the bi-metal thermostat. Things seem to work when the compressor and fan are on. I'm assuming it either shuts off because it reaches a desired temp or it hits the defrost cycle. The problem is that it doesn't automatically turn back on. I have to do some sort of manual thing (whether intentional or accidental) and things start back up. Is there something wrong with the start relay? Should I try replacing with another one? I understand that some fridges do not have run capacitor (instructions said to use the terminal cover if there was no run capacitor. I've read elsewhere that the run side of the relay is not important). As I mentioned, in the previous replacement, they did not attach the blue wire at all. Is this a normal practice? Should I un-hook it from this current replacement? This current replacement has 3 terminals on the start relay, 2 on the start side, 1 on the run side. What is the second terminal for on the start side? Is it so that the white wires can be connected separately instead of joined? (one white wire went to the run capacitor, and one to the fan harness) I tested the prongs on the compressor. Start/Common 4 ohms Run/Common 3 ohms Start/Run 6 ohms It's hard to see the run capacitor behind the compressor. From what I can see, there are no bulges.
Answer MG, For this issue if it starts warming up approximately every 8 hours then it sounds like the issue will be with the defrost timer sticking in defrost cycle. The other possibility would be a faulty thermostats. Read More... Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Wednesday, November 9, 2016