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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Compressor by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM13543992
Manufacturer Part Number: W10309995

Refrigerator not cooling or freezing? This compressor powers your cooling system. Professional installation recommended due to sealed system work.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Refrigerator Compressor (Part Number: OEM13543992)

1 Answer

Hello Junior. Without that tag, you will need a certified HVAC tech that knows how to charge a system using pressures and gauges on the unit.

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1 Answer

Jack, It does not sound like the compressor would be the issue but sounds like it would be a sealed system issue. This is not something that you can do without experience and a license for refrigerant.

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1 Answer

Frank, You would not want to use a 1/4 HP compressor in place of a 1/5 hp unless it is the recommended replacement from the manufacturer. The part number for the compressor assembly for your unit is W10309995.

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Adam for Model Number 6GC5THGXKS00

Hello, I have a Whirlpool side by side Fridge / Freezer / icemaker & I'm in Australia.. Model number 6GC5THGXKS00. Its not staying cool inside both the fridge and freezer. Im a Plumber, so I can hopefully fix it myself but need to know what is the problem with it. The fan runs, but the entire fridge ( around the seals ) & sides of the fridge gets really really hot. As well as the large black compressor at the rear, is to hot to touch. Does it sound like I need a new compressor? or something more simple? I have vacuumed up the dust inside with no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Adam

1 Answer

Hello Adam. If the condenser coils are clean, you will need to check the condenser fan motor and make sure it is good. If not replace the fan motor. It removes the heat so the unit does not get super hot as you are describing.

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Daniel R for Model Number Matag Refrigerator Model MZD2766GEW

When the unit shuts off, there is a rattle that lasts about 2 seconds. It seems over the last month it is getting a little longer in duration. The unit works like it should and it is as cold as it always has been. I have cleaned out the unit of dust and dirt every year so there is nothing caught under the unit. I have removed the cardboard back cover and checked for anything loose. The compressor is on rubber insulator and all are in good shape. The clips holding down the compressor are all there and in good shape. I believe the rattle is coming from the compressor area. I have read alot of information on the web and I guess there are springs inside that could break. The compressor is an Embraco EGY100HLP but if I need a new compressor which of the two you show fit my refrigerator. The part numbers that they say they replace, do not correspond to the numbers on this unit. I bought the refrigerator new in 2002 and have not had the compressor replaced before. My question is does this sound like the compressor is the issue and if so which compressor do I need to order and how long might I have left before the compressor quits, in your best guess? Thanks!

1 Answer

Hello Daniel. If the noise is coming from the compressor, then most likely the spring has broken. We will need your serial number to determine which compressor you need to order. Thanks.

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Junlin for Model Number MSD2758DRW

Hi, My friend's Maytag refused to work and I tried to help to get it repaired. The first part I found failed was the defrost thermostat, it remains some 200K ohms at both cold and warm conditions. I replaced it with the substitute component. The compressor fan starts running but not the compressor. Then I tested the compressor, two progs read 3.2, 2.4, and then 5.5. I thought the compressor was good. Then I take out the relay and overload, shaking makes it rattle. 12002783 was ordered and replaced per instruction. The new unit have a prog too wide to go into the orange wire head. The supplied white wire was too short for anything so I used it to adapt terminal 3 to the orange wires. After the relay and overload is replaced, the compressor still refused to work. I can hear clicks from time to time and the compressor become hot. I read that the run capacitor could also go bad. I tested it, it reads about 15.45 uF, therefore I consider it as good. While the unit is running, I tested the power supply to the compressor, it reads 122V. Are there any additional tests that I could do to determine if the compressor is good or bad? I thought the compressor is too expensive and difficult to replace because it's connected with the coolants flow system. Without proper tools it cannot be changed. Can the compressor be replaced on DIY basis?

1 Answer

Hello Junlin. If the relay over load is new, you will need to replace the compressor on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Louis, The blue wire on this mode connects to the common terminal. If you remove the start relay and look closely at it, the relay terminals are numbered. These numbers are 2 and 3. The 2 terminal is the run winding and the 3 terminal is the start winding. As far as what is causing the issue, the unit will need to be troubleshot to determine this. If it isn't cooling at all and the start relay is to blame, you will hear an audible "click" from the rear of the unit about every 3 to 5 minutes. You need to make sure the fan in the rear is running and the fan inside the freezer compartment is running also. You can also remove the rear wall of the freezer and check the frost pattern on the evaporator coil. If there is an ice ball where the freon line enters the freezer compartment, you have either a freon loss or an inefficient compressor. If the frost is gathered across the top of the coil, there is an air circulation issue. If the frost begins part-way down the coil, there is a restriction inside the evaporator coil.

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Henry for Model Number MSD2454FRW

would a compressor still run for a period of time once it goes bad? Mine quit but after changing out the overload/relay kit and run capacitor, and defrost timer. it runs for 45 mins and quits, compressor seems hot and when you thump it on it's side it makes a tinny sound like something bouncing around hitting something inside. I don't know if that's normal or not. But since it runs is the compressor ruled out as being bad? if not what other control or sensor should I be looking for? Both freezer fans and condenser fans work but stop when compressor shuts down. is there an internal thermol inside the compressor that's making it shuts down. perhaps it's the condenser fan not running the right speed.

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