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Customer Questions and Answers for Oven Igniter by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18041961
Manufacturer Part Number: WP9758079

The Oven Igniter is an OEM part for Whirlpool ovens. It is designed to ignite the gas in the oven burner, providing the heat necessary for baking or broiling. This igniter is critical for the oven’s functionality, as it must heat up to a specific temperature to open the gas valve and begin the combustion process.

Symptoms of a bad Oven Igniter include:

  • The oven failing to heat up despite the gas being turned on.
  • A gas smell indicating that gas is being released without ignition.
  • Intermittent heating, where the oven fails to maintain a consistent temperature.

Causes of a bad oven igniter can include aging and wear that reduce the igniter’s ability to reach the required temperature, electrical issues such as faulty wiring or connections, or a malfunctioning safety valve that doesn’t open properly.

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Oven Igniter (Part Number: OEM18041961)

1 Answer

Scott, The oven overheating would most likely be caused by a faulty oven sensor. You will want to check the resistance of the oven sensor which should be 1090 ohms at room temperature.

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1 Answer

Tim, For the oven orifices you will need to access the burners and remove. Tighten down the orifices and open the air shutters. This is how to convert the oven burners.

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Sean Fay for Model Number GS563LXSB0

We have had our safety valve replaced already once, but the new one only lasted about 6 months. To bake we need to keep turning off the oven and then back on. It seems to cycle once or twice and then stops cycling but showing us the temperature we set the oven to. Sometimes it works for a few days even. Yesterday the oven got worse, now only the broiler and the range works. Oven ticks like it is trying to ignite but no ignite, it then stops trying after a few ticks. No gas smell thankfully. Figure safety valve has gone totally now. What do you think?

1 Answer

Sean, You will want to check the burner to make sure that there is no rust building up around the ports which could cause the issue. Also check the resistance of the safety valve. The resistance should be 216 ohms from bake to common. If not then the valve is bad and would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Mzprfkt, If none of the igniters are "sparking" the first check needs to be at the wall outlet, make sure you have a polarized, grounded 120 VAC at the outlet, then check the DSI spark module WPW10331686 and wiring harness. This is where the 120 VAC is converted to 1400-1500 VDC and creates the spark at the burner(s) when the knob or control calls for heat. You do need to check and make sure the top burners and igniters are clean and free of debris and corrosion, also.

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1 Answer

Hello Frank. Sorry, we do not have a video at this time. Test for 3.2-3.6 volts AC at the gas safety valve with the igniter turned on. If the voltage is there, you have a bad safety valve. If the voltage is low, you have a weak igniter and the igniter will need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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2 Answers

Tony, You will want to do a resistance check on the oven safety valve. If you check from the center terminal to either of the outside terminals, there should be 216 ohms of resistance. This sounds like it would be the issue with the unit.

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Lev for Model Number WFG510S0AS0

My Whirlpool gas range's bake function started to act up after a grease spill, so it seams. The top burners work just fine. The broiler lights up immediately with no problem, but the bake does not. Sometimes it would light right away with a little 'spoof' ignition sound, but sometimes it takes several attempts for it. And lately it would either not light up at all or, the worst, it would not reignite during a baking cycle, so the temperature is not maintained. I can hear 3-4 igniter clicks each time, I can hear the gas hissing, but the oven does not light up, then I can smell some gas. I read here that there could be an issue with losing good ground between panels because of the spill and so the igniter is not able to get its proper spark or it could be a faulty igniter (I hope it's that, the part is pretty cheap and seems straightforward to replace on my own) or something else, not sure. From what I've let you know, how do you recommend I proceed to diagnose the problem further? Thanks.

1 Answer

Lev, While the oven igniter could most certainly be the issue with the unit, you will also want to check to make sure that none of the grease got into the ports of the burner itself. If this has happened then it will need to be cleaned out. If the issue then continues to occur it may be necessary to replace the burner or igniter.

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1 Answer

Sally, There are a couple of possibilities. The gas valve solenoids WPW10293048 could be weak and "drop out" of the circuit after a few cycles. The DSI spark module WPW10331686 could also develop a weakness and could reduce the DCV to the valve and interrupt the ignition process. At this point it sounds more like a weak gas valve solenoid.

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