Greg January 05, 2021 for Model Number Wdf530payw6 On the previous mentioned dishwasher, the filters were significantly impacted when we noticed the issue. Cleaned them and still no luck with the circulation pump issues. Burned up the circulation pump motor? Removed the dishwasher and turned over to get to pump and motor. Separated the two to see if there was any cloggage and there was not. Still want to get input before I spend the money to order the pump/motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
1 Answer Greg, the circulation pump W11133712 can be tested for 120VAC when the unit is operating. If the motor is receiving voltage and the water is not pushing through properly, then the pump has failed if there are no cracks in the spray arms. Read More...
Greg January 04, 2021 for Model Number WDF530PAYW6 The dishwasher fills with water properly, but circulation pump is not spraying water into the dishwasher. The soap compartment has opened during the cycle but the soap is still there. Drain function works. No loud or unusual noises except you can tell that no water is being sprayed around. I watched a video on removing the whole bottom section to get to the circulation pump so I can check it for debris, but can’t push that retainer clip in far enough to release it so I can push the circulation pump and motor up into the unit. The three retainer switches have been turned. Any help about where I am searching for a fix and/or how to get that pin to push in further would be appreciated. Thank you!
1 Answer Greg, make sure you remove the drain pump and any wiring before trying to push the pump housing up into the tub. The three tabs are what hold the sump in place, you may have to take a screwdriver and carefully pry the sump to release it. If you are going to that much trouble to remove the sump assembly, I would go ahead and replace it, I think you will find that it is a motor failure anyway. Part is WPW10482480 Read More...
Rebecca December 09, 2020 for Model Number KUDS30FXPA4 Hello, I have a question about the yellow wires that connect to the turbidity censor. Two of the 6 wires were cut when the dishwasher was moved. I'm 90% sure which ends match. But in the possibility i switch 2 of the yellow wires will that be a problem? My question is, are these yellow wires locations interchangeable? can i simply strip the ends of these wires and reconnect the with electric tape? another question I have -- if my dishwasher is 6 feet away from the sink, how long should the drain hose be? Thank you! Rebecca
1 Answer Rebecca, Based on the information you have provided I am sorry to say yes it matters that the wires are connected back to the correct one. each of the yellow wires connects to a different pin and circuit in the sensor and the board. Your drain would need to be long enough to give the high loop before entering the house drain. Read More...
Christiaan December 02, 2020 for Model Number KDTE204Dss1 dishwasher cleans fine but the cycle never ends and will not go into dry cycle. it keeps draining the water after 1hr or more, run drain 3x. water comes into sink as expected. then starts bringing in new water and start cycle again. I manually stop it at draining stage and open the door only to see clean dishes and no water but dishes did not receive dry cycle. I replaced the hose earlier and cleaned the drain pump area it was dirty and constraint with piece of glass.
1 Answer Christian, The most likely cause for this type of issue will be a faulty turbidity sensor ]A{6023867]. Read More...
Kelvin October 06, 2020 for Model Number MDB8859AWW2 My Maytag dishwasher ("normal" cycle) fills, washes for 7 minutes, and then stops and heats the water. Before starting the water, I run the kitchen tap until the water is hot (> 120 deg). During the thermal hold, I can tell the heating element is on. After 20-30 mins the wash cycle resumes but for only 5 mins and then washer stops and heats the water again for a long time. It seems the washer is heating water for longer than it actually washes. The dishes are not very clean after the cycle completes.
1 Answer Kelvin, with the power to the dishwasher disconnected or the breaker turned off, it would be recommended that the thermistor in the turbidity sensor WPW10705575 is tested for resistance. At room temperature, the sensor should measure between 48KO to 52KO when testing the wires of the main control at the connection P15 from the wire at pin 3 to the wire at pin 1. If the thermistor tests within range, then the main control WPW10285180 would be the most likely failure. Read More...
Raymond August 17, 2020 for Model Number WDT780SAEM1 On a previous question possible problem could be the check valve. Where is the check valve on this model. I am unable to locate. Thanks, Ray
1 Answer Raymond, the check valve would be a part of the sump housing WPW10455268 and is located at the drain outlet where the drain hose connects. Read More...
Carl August 04, 2020 for Model Number 665.12793K311 My Sani Rinse option lights up when I select the button for that option, but at the end of the wash cycle the LED display says "Sanitization Incomplete." Could this be a Turbidity sensor/Thermistor issue? When running self-test on dishwasher the following codes appeared: F3E1, F6E6, F6E2, F-E- Please advise. I use the Sani Rinse option when there are illnesses in the family. Thanks.
1 Answer Carl, based on this information, it is possible that the turbidity sensor WPW10705575 has failed. With the power supply to the dishwasher turned off, the turbidity sensor can be tested from the main control at the connection P12 from the wire at pin 1 to the wire at pin 3. The resistance should measure between 46KO to 52KO at room temperature. If the resistance is not within this range, the turbidity sensor would need to be replaced. Read More...
Matthew June 22, 2020 for Model Number WDT720PADM0 My dishwasher will not drain. I have replaced the drain pump and still nothing. I am getting 118v reading on one of the(2 brown wires) leads that connects to it but nothing on the other(assuming that’s ground) don’t think it’s the control panel. Could it be another sensor (turbidity sensor) or something that I’m missing ?
1 Answer Hello Matthew, since you have replaced the drain pump already, next test the 2 brown wires from the drain pump to the control board if they test ok then replace the control board, part W10751502. Read More...
Raymond June 20, 2020 for Model Number WDT780SAEM1 Whirlpool dishwasher. Starts and stops mid cycle.Have to repeatedly restart to get it going again. Already replaced electronic control board and inlet water valve. Still does the same thing. Error code F6E4 comes up Tested door and float switches ok. Do you think it is the tubitidy sensor? Thank You, Ray
1 Answer Raymond, This would be a water inlet issue. Check for a stuck float switch, check to make sure that the check valve is sealing properly. These would be the most common causes for this issue as the unit is not filling properly during the cycle. Read More...
James June 14, 2020 for Model Number 66513749K603 After water fills and washing a few minutes the drain pump activates and drains water but no more comes in and you can hear the motor running like it is pumping water but no water in unit. I replaced c board but did not fix problem. I ran diognostic cycle and it did it when sensor detects solid food, best I can tell. Could sensor be bad, does it activate drain pump when detects solid food?? When I run unit on Fast wash I have no problem??
1 Answer James, If the unit is running with no water, check the float and the float switch. The float may be stuck in the up position which would cause this type of issue. Read More...