Jane June 01, 2020 for Model Number KDTE104ESS2 3 year old dishwasher (KDTE104ESS2) suddenly not washing very well (food still left on dishes) and doesn't consistently dry when "heat dry" is selected. Sometimes Detergent pod is left half melted in the dispenser. Sometimes the dishes are hot and dry at end of cycle and sometimes they are still wet. I've tried running hot water prior to wash but this doesn't help. Our hot water is extremely hot at tap. I've tried letting the water run prior to cycle but it doesn't help. I've had one repair tech tell me it needs a new controller and another tell me it needs a new motor. Confusing. Receiving an error code 7-1 but neither tech seems to cares about that. Thank you.
1 Answer Hello Jane, the code refers to the control board either detecting the heater not heating the water or has disabled the heater circuit for another found problem, a circulating pump problem would cause it also it would explain the poor cleaning. Once the dishwater fills with water the circuiting pump should start, the complete pump/sump assembly is part AP6023350. Read More...
Ron May 21, 2020 for Model Number Jennair W10455257A Dishwasher My turbidity sensor got water inside of it and shorted. I replaced the sensor. I now found electrical connector is corroded inside and one of the small pins is broke off. What type of electrical connector is this? I just need to replace the plastic electrical connector and not the entire wiring harness.
1 Answer Ron, unfortunately, the model number provided is not showing as a valid model number. If the model and serial numbers could be verified and provided in a new inquiry, this will allow for the most accurate information to be presented. Read More...
Paul May 13, 2020 for Model Number WDF560SAFM2 My dishwasher wasn't cleaning properly, so I'm attempting to self repair. Initial symptom I noticed was that the detergent pod was not fully dissolved and lying on the bottom of the dishwasher. Error code I keep getting is F4E3, which refers to the wash pump. I also received an F9E1 at some point referring to the diverter motor. I have tried: - Replacing the wash pump. No change. - Replacing the control board. No change. - Replacing the diverter motor. No change. I have determined that the washer is filling, draining, and heating. The wash pump works as well, as I can hear it spraying periodically. The problem is that the diverter does not stop at the proper locations. It *can* stop but it just doesn't, so during cycles where either the lower wash arm or upper wash arm should be spraying, it just keeps going back and forth with lots of down time inbetween as the diverter turns. I have verified that the diverter position sensor switch is working properly, and all fuses are OK. Is there some sort of sensor that could cause the diverter to continue to turn even though it has passed the correct location for a wash zone? I'm an electrical/computer engineer and this is driving me crazy! :)
1 Answer Hello Paul, the control board will power the diverter motor to the correct position to send the water from the circulation motor to the required spray arm, once the control board confirms the diverter is in the correct location it will then power the circulation motor power for a specific time, then cut off the circulation motor and power the diverter motor to the next position, and again power the circulation motor this repeats throughout the entire wash cycle, the control board's internal timer stops counting when the diverter motor is moving. Since the problem is still occurring with those new parts replaced something is interfering with the data communication between the diverter motor and the control board, I would suggest a close look at the turbidity sensor mounted to the side of the sump housing and esp the wiring to it, if the wiring is not damaged/wet/corroded, disconnect it and run a wash cycle and see if the problem reoccurs. if it does not, replace the sensor W11084121, if it again reoccurs there may be a wiring harness problem, the harness is W10834774. Read More...
Todd April 19, 2020 for Model Number KDFE104DSS2 When starting a wash cycle, I pick my options and Start. All of the lights are on and it sounds like water starts pumping into the machine. Nothing else happens. When I hit Cancel, water will drain. Sometimes, I hear clicking. I usually try several times to get the washer to start the cycle. Sometimes it just takes 2-3 times, otherwise it takes 15-20 or will not start at all. Several years ago, I had the same issues and replaced the control panel, but that did not fix the issue. I replaced the motor assembly and optic sensor, which I believe is also called the Turbidity Sensor and that fixed the problem. Should I replace those same two parts again?
1 Answer Todd, the turbidity sensor will not keep it from running but simply monitors how dirty or clean the water is to determine whether to keep running or not. It sounds like it is pumping the water in but not activating the wash motor. This could be a problem with the wash motor or main control board not sending proper voltage to the motor. There should be a tech sheet behind the bottom toe panel that will tell you how to put it into a diagnostic mode and turn on the wash motor. Read More...
Shaun April 08, 2020 for Model Number WDT730PAHZ0 Hello my dishwasher wasn’t washing so after troubleshooting I replace the pump and then it only would fill and then do short burst of water but not continuous wash. So I replaced the control board and it is still doing the same thing what would cause it to not wash continuously?
1 Answer Shaun, it is normal for this model to have numerous and repeated starts and stops throughout the cycle. This operation is how the machine is able to optimize the wash and energy efficiency. Read More...
Kris February 10, 2020 for Model Number WDT780SAEM1 We have replaced the turbidity sensor on our Whirlpool dishwasher 3 times to correct the issue with our dishes not getting clean due to a lack of water circulation. What would be causing the sensor to keep breaking? Are we always going to have to replace the sensor or is there some other part or reason why this same part breaks again and again?
1 Answer Hello Kris, This can be an issue with the wiring harness or the control if the unit is loaded properly, the drain is operating properly, and the drain line is supported to countertop level before entering the sink drain. Another thing to check is the diverter disc WPW10476221 for obstructions and the diverter motor W10537869. Read More...
Erik January 23, 2020 for Model Number wdt780saem1 My dishwasher isn’t dissolving the detergent or cleaning properly. Initially, it would fill and I've observed water spraying on the inside and the arms spinning. It appears to drain properly. After the initial fill, I hear clicking underneath, but don’t observe any action. Any thoughts?
1 Answer Hello Erik, You should first make sure nothing is holding the float up. If not, check for 120Vac at the water inlet valve when it should be filling. If no voltage there, check the door switch WPW10653840 and check for 120Vac from the control W10854221. If voltage is present, replace the water inlet valve WPW10327249. Read More...
Rick January 13, 2020 for Model Number whirlpool du1345xtvq1 I've had this dishwasher for some time and have done a LOT of repairs on it. I have 8 children so it gets a LOT of use. Recently it'll fill all the way and start cleaning but it makes a churning sound about every second and a half. It looked like it hadn't filled enough so to test that I pause the cycle by opening the door and fill the washer manually until the float begins to rise. I then close the door and within 2-3 minutes the churning begins again, so I add more water to the same level and sure enough the same thing happens withing 2-3 minutes. I've checked carefully and there's no water leaking at all. The machine has run well for long periods of time and this just began recently when I replaced the drain motor. I suspect there's something leaking into the drain tube but to lose that much water in just a few minutes is confusing. Can you shed some light on this?
1 Answer Hello Rick, it sounds like the dishwasher is losing wash water, and since it is not leaking out onto the floor, then it is going out the drain hose. Check if the drain hose to the sink/standpipe has fallen down , it has to have a high loop to prevent siphoning. Read More...
Dereck November 18, 2019 for Model Number 665.12773k311 I have a Kenmore (rebranded Whirlpool) dishwasher. The heater wasn't heating the water or drying at the end of the cycle. I found the filter screen was plugged with cooking grease. I cleaned the screen. The issue remained. In advance, I purchased a new heater coil and thermostat. I pulled the unit and removed the heater coil and thermostat. I did a continuity test on both parts and they tested good. Please indicate what to test next. Could the Turbidity sensor be bad. I believe there is a thermal switch in that sensor as well. I'm stuck.
1 Answer Hello Derek, it sounds as if the control board has disabled the heater circuit. It can do this if it sees certain problems unrelated to heater operation, You will need to run the diagnostic test to find the fault code, the diagnostic test sheet is located behind the lower kickplate. To enter the test, open the door, cancel any cycles, press any 3 keypads in a 123.123.123 sequence, close the door and count the clean light blinks. That will be the fault codes, can have up to 4 codes. Read More...
Linda October 15, 2019 for Model Number WDF750SAYB3 When I press the sensor button, then the start button, the lights on the panel go on then a few seconds later go off. No action on the dishwasher. I can wash “heavy” mode fine. Haven’t tried the other load options yet. Trying to decide if it is the panel under the sensor button only (which is about all we use) or something else.
1 Answer Linda, The issue would be the panel underneath the control panel under the "buttons" WPW10629166 / WPW10629166 Housing-User Interface. The part is in stock and available at this time. The user interface board contains miniature buttons that activate the chosen cycle. The "sensor wqash" selector button has failed. Thanks, Read More...