Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Timer by Whirlpool

Virginia,

There are several possibilities that could cause the unit to not heat. You will need a multimeter and check all of the thermostats in the unit for continuity. If any of them do not have continuity then replace that thermostat or thermal fuse. If they all check ok then check the heater for continuity. There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue. If there is 120 vac at each point then the heater is faulty.

Tom, It's most likely a bad motor bearing or winding W10410996 which is getting hot and causing the problem. Once the motor cools down, it can start and run until it overheats again. The noise is usually the buzzer in the control panel, it's the path of least resistance, when the motor can't start, the buzzer can sound.

Hello Gary. You need to look for a wire grounded and touching metal in the unit. This will cause the unit to trip a breaker.

Hello Joel. If there is 240 volts and the unit does not run, you need to test the thermal fuse LA-1053 and see if it needs to be replaced on the unit. It should read closed for continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Francis, have you replaced the Thermal Fuse LA-1053? Check all your wiring as well and make sure you clean your venting so there is no obstruction. Here's a link that may help you determine the problem. Hope this helps! http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/dryer-repair-help.html#electric

Hi Darline. The blk wire connects to the "blk" terminal. The One black wire going to the buzzer connects to the "S" terminal. The purple wire going to the motor hooks there as well ("S") terminal. The Orange wire and the red/black wire from the #2 wrinkle switch post terminal connects to the "M" timer terminal. The other red/blk wire from the wrinkle switch connects to the "W" timer terminal. One black wire from the timer motor itself connects to the "L" terminal. The other black timer motor wire connects to the "TM" timer terminal. The white wire from the buzzer connects to the "B" terminal. The white wire from the Terminal block connects to the timers "N" terminal. The Timer 3.77 ohm resister connects to the timer "A" terminal. The Other end of this resister connects to the timer "R" terminal as well as the Red wire going to the heater element. Lastly there is a red wire going to the "H" timer terminal it ends up at the heat selector switch on the L1 feed terminal. There is a supplied wiring diagram in behind the timer to compare all this to. This is the only timer for your model. Thank You.

Hello Darline, we show for this model number the correct timer is part number WP31001513. Thanks!

Rollie, If the timer advances and shuts off in a "timed Dry" selection, the issue is not the timer. If the timer does not advance and shut off in the "auto advance" cycle, the issue is in the operating temperature of the dryer, and usually due to a restricted vent. Your first option is the check the timed dry for advance and off. then disconnect the exhaust vent and check the automatic cycle for advance and shut off. Thanks and Good Luck

Dean, there are other comopnents to check before you replace the timer. First, make sure you have 240 VAC at the rear terminal block on the back of the dryer. Raise the top( press in on the spring clips and lift up on the corner) and check the door switch circuit LA-1005, with the door closed there should be a "closed " circuit between the terminals and an "open" circuit with the door open. From there, check the hi limit and thermal fuse, located on the heater housing in the top left rear corner of the cabinet LA-1053 if either of these check with an open circuit, you will need to replace these parts. Here's some meter usage information that will help you out [http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html] Thanks

Hello Albert. The thermal fuse WP53-1182 is located on the side of the heater housing. Usually it has two white wires going to it. Hope this helps.