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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Defrost Control Board by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9328188
Manufacturer Part Number: 4388931

Freezer not cooling or excessive frost buildup? The defrost control board manages the defrost cycle. Moderately difficult repair with video guidance.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Refrigerator Defrost Control Board (Part Number: OEM9328188)

1 Answer

P. Jones, Based on the information provided you will need to use a multimeter and check the heater and the defrost thermostat/bi-metal. If they are good you will likely need to replace the defrost board.

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1 Answer

Robert, the unit can be placed into a forced defrost mode by turning the thermostat to the off position for 15 seconds, turn it back on for 5 seconds. This will be repeated two more times and then the thermostat moved back to the off position. The defrost control 4388931 will then enter into a forced defrost cycle for 21 minutes or until the defrost bi-metal W11164040 opens.

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1 Answer

Robert, if there is not an air gap in the freezer or refrigerator door gasket, the adaptive defrost control 4388932 would be the most likely cause as the forced defrost operates properly.

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1 Answer

Judi, Any refrigerator will be electronically controlled defrost/ADC or will have a timer but not both. This model is an ADC model and the ADC is part number WPW10366605.

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1 Answer

Steve, This would be a defrost control board but would be suggested to test the defrost thermostat to make sure that it has continuity.

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1 Answer

Jerry, it is recommended that the evaporator coil is inspected for a proper frost pattern. If there is not a light frost coating on all of the evaporator coils after an hour, then the unit may have a sealed system issue. The condenser coils in the back will need to be verified as having no congestion from dust. If there is not a light frost coating, but there is an ice ball on one line, then there is a verified sealed system issue that would require an HVAC certified technician to repair.

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1 Answer

Hello Toby, the evaporator /condenser fans and the compressor are all on the same circuit , if they are running and there is a loss of cooling in the freezer access the evaporator coil and check the frost pattern, if it is only partially frosted that indicates a loss of freon and a service technician should be contacted for further testing.

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1 Answer

Gordon, unfortunately the defrost can not be disabled as the defrost control 4388931 is responsible for supplying voltage to the thermostat. To disable the defrost timer control, the entire unit would need to be turned off as the defrost timer control bases the defrost cycle on how long the compressor operates.

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1 Answer

Hello Walder, if you have frost/ice building up on your freezer wall you might have a defrost issue. Also if once you get rid of the frost/ice the unit works fine for a couple days, you definitely have a defrost issue. You'll want to test the defrost thermostat WP4387490 and the defrost heater WP2263749 before you replace the adaptive defrost control part number 4388931. Thanks!

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1 Answer

Cordell, Your refrigerator has an ADC Board There are two methods to test it : The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode. "First Test Method: 1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds. 2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds. 3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds. 4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds. 5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds. 6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds. 7. Turn the thermostat off. In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. Second Test Method: 1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds. 2. Turn the thermostat off. 3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer. Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds." In the defrost mode, you can test for 120 VAC at the pink wire to chassis ground or any white wire. in the cooling mode you can check the orange and/or red wire to chassis ground or a white wire, this will confirm voltage out to the components is proper and the ADC board is functioning properly.

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