Sg10000 Parts

I first replaced the two drive belts and the motor springs. That didn't fix it although they did need replacing. I then replaced the two bearings and the brake assy. The washer runs like new. If you replace the brake assembly, you should also replace the bearings. It will save a tear down later on. The Maytag repairman wanted $600.00 dollars to do the job. I did it for less than $200.00. Read more

I had a lot of problems removing the spin hub, I had to use an air impact wrench to un screw it even then it was very hard, it did not go easy with the hammer & pipe wrench as shown in the video. It was also very hard to remove the bottom spin bearing I had to cut the bearing retainer with a dremel tool so I could get my puller on it. After I struggled to get it apart The repair went very easy, I used brake spring pliers to remove the springs it worked like a charm. I am very pleased with... Read more

I took the wash basket out of the tub to remove all the sludge and scale that had accumulated over the years. But I did not have a spanner wrench to remove the large nut holding the basket to the center shaft. No problem - I used a hammer and chisel on the ears. But didn't realize it was a LEFT HAND THREAD!! That's when the nut split in two and I had no choice but to purchase another. Long story short, it's back together and the washer doesn't smell anymore. Live and learn... Read more

Water was not draining on spin cycle. Opened front cover and found belt laying on the floor. After further inspection found motor pulley wheel broken. Ordered pulley and belt kit. Replaced pulley along with pump belt and tub belt. Washer is working again. Read more

Removed shaft with slide hammer and inspected the yoke and gearing replaced the shaft and seals with the shaft kit and replaced the tub bearing. 32 years and still running strong Maytag yeah!!!! Doubt the newer ones will run as long thanks for having the parts. Read more

Replaced the Injector valve, nozzle and sleeve-in using new hose clamps Read more

Replaced bulb Read more

I have a Maytag washer that is over 30 years old and still runs like a top. When the siphon break got destroyed in our move, I was able to find a replacement kit that fixed our problem. I found a video on UTube that showed us just what to do. I'm delighted I didn't have to buy a new washer since the quality of new ones doesn't hold a candle to the quality of my Maytag. Read more

This was my first ever self appliance repair. The videos provided by Appliance Parts Pros were excellent and gave me the confidence to do the work myself. My Maytag dryer model opened differently than the one in the videos. I had to remove the front panel and screwing in the paddle required reaching way back and working in a small space where I couldn't see what I was doing. It was uncomfortable but doable with a nut driver and a bit of elbow grease. The part fit perfectly and it looks good as... Read more

Purchased timer and baffle, and my appliance repairman installed them. I could get the parts cheaper than he could from his supplier; he asked me for the Appliance Parts Pros website address! Read more

I had to replace the terminal block due to the 220 volt ark. A small fire at the bottom of the dryer caused the belt to partially burn. I had to replace it along with the 220 volt dryer cable. If the local hardware store would have taken the time to install the dryer with an additional 0.50 cent grommet, this could have been avoided. Thank you for sending the correct parts. This was the second time I had to use your service and I will continue to use it in the future. Read more

Took the front panel off (the door front), disconnected the connector to the door switch and used a wooden clothespin to bypass the door switch. Turned on the dryer to locate loud squeaking sound and found it was coming from the motor area. When I started to take the blower section apart from the motor, that is when I saw the "blower wheel" slipped off the motor shaft. The blower wheel has a "C" clip retainer and compression ring to keep it snug on the motor shaft (but it was loose). Now I... Read more

Perfectly! Replacing Agitator Shaft is not for the faint of heart. Replacing output shaft pinion gear on the bottom of the agitator shaft requires care, experience and patience with pressing/driving drift pins without damaging the gear itself. One slip of the drift/punch or press apparatus will ruin the gear/teeth face and will lead to failure of the transmission internally when put back into service. As best as I can tell the pinion gear is discontinued and no longer available so take care!... Read more

I cannot believe this machine still runs. APP has sold me repair parts for this unit now 3 times. First I wanted to replace the old belts. They still worked but was more a preventative thing. Next was a water control valve a few years ago. This time I noticed a leak near the valve again. I decided to buy a new valve and also replace all the rubber hoses that were 35 years old. The repair took about 3 hours. 1.5 to remove the old parts and do a cleaning that was greatly needed. 0.5 hours to... Read more

First I was surprised the switch arrived next day after ordering it. Kudos to AppliancePartsPros for extra fast service. I removed the screws on bottom of front panel to remove the panel. This revealed the inside of the washer. The switch was in upper left corner. The two screws were 1/4 inch hex nut type and were hard to get a ratchet in there. (had to use a ratchet wrench because I dont have an open end wrench.) So it took a while to unscrew the screws. But I was able to remove them. Once... Read more