Thermal Fuse Parts

Checked vent first to see if there was a blockage. Removed top, front and drum of dryer. Replaced all sensors including flame detection and gas valve coils. Re-assembled and tested. Dryer was now heating Read more

The thermal cutoff went bad because of lint being trapped in dryer vent and blocked air-flow from dryer. Removed accumilation of lint and installed new thermal -cutoff and thermostat and dryer now works great. Read more

• Won't start

Watched u-tube Read more

This is a 25 year old built-in over-the-range appliance. Only previous problem was 1 failed door switch (of 3 total), replaced 2 years ago. First checked all 3 door switches with continuity tester, all ok. Had advice to check thermostat switches, which were all supposedly NC (normally closed), used same tester. Found one thermo that was open, ordered and installed replacement, but oven still dead. Used heat gun to warm the open thermo (while not installed) and using tester again, found that... Read more

Tested the High Voltage Capacitor which showing no capacitance and no resistance. Replaced it together with the diode and the line fuse no longer blew and the microwave is back in service. Read more

Ordered a new one from AppliancePartsPros.com Read more

Replace TCO Read more

Removed lid. Removed switch panel. Suspected open circuit in thermal fuse. Tested it with a multimeter first to confirm it had an open circuit. This part is obsolete. Contacted manufacturer and found part supercedes to a different part number Ordered part. (This website is very efficient. The part arrived with the 1.7 day promise time.) new fuse bracket is slightly larger due to supercession. Marked bolt hole locations and drilled new. Installed fuse. Re-assembled dryer in reverse order.... Read more

Replaced all sensors, limiters, thermistors, thermostat. Works great now. Read more

I researched the problem and found that not only was the fuse blown but the cause was a bad thermostat. Using the model number AppliancePartsPros.com. sold me the right parts for the right job. Read more

• Door won't open after self cleaning cycle

Based on information found at AppliancePartsPros, I determined that the it was most likely the thermostat (thermal fuse). I removed the rear panel and tested the fuse for continuity and it was bad. I used a jumper wire to bypass the fuse and plugged the range back in. The panel turned on and the oven unlocked. I then removed the thermostat and looked up the replacement part and ordered. Read more

Installed a new thermistor tempiture control and it heats up as it should. Tools used was a ohlm meter, 1" stiff puty knife, #2 Philips screw driver, neadle nose pliers,1/4 & 5/16 nut drivers. Read more

• Too hot

Replaced upper and lower felts. Painted rubbing surface on inside of drum with refrigerator enamel. Took out drum and lubed rear bearing. Replaced 2 of the 3 thermostats, and the belt just on principle. Spent a lot of time with shop-vac removing lint from drier and exhaust ducts. Runs great and is no longer cooking or staining clothes. Read more

After 2 repair men, many parts replace it still didn't work, Did research on line and found out the thermal fuse would need to be replace.. Read more

Did it myself. Read more

• Exhaust fan not working
• shuts off after a few seconds

I attempted to diagnose the four thermostats/thermal switches in the microwave....two right behind the control panel, one on top of the cooking cabin, and one under a metal shroud above the magnetron. While checking continuity with a voltmeter, i questioned one of them behind the control panel and the one above the magnetron. I then noticed a burn mark on the plastic connector sleeve for the one above the magnetron. I took a scrap piece of 14 gage copper wire and beat the ends flat with a... Read more