Whirlpool D7824706Q Ice Maker OEM Part

My first hour: I investigated first by pulling out refridgerator to see if the water line hose was kinked. I started under the kitchen sink where it begins, coming from faucet water supply. Then I followed it to the back of the fridge to see if anything looked odd. Next I went to the ice maker itself. I investigated the ice maker by removing the freezer food sliding tray and hanging tray, and then unscrewing the door off the slides. When I looked inside at the ice maker, I saw the tube where the water was coming in from the line, it was hard feeling. I pulled up on the plastic ice maker shroud covering the frozen tube and saw ice. I figured something was causing the water to not fall into the tray and since it had no where to go, it froze. I then looked at the ice maker tray. I could see some corrosion at the top. I stuck my hand in the tray and felt there were ice cubes inside ready to come out. Impasse! I now put facts together or guessed: Over the past six months, we have been seeing occasional small bits of tan debris on some of the ice cubes. We simply didn't use them. After seeing the the ice maker tray is tan in color, and seeing some corrosion on its top, I figured there is more corrosion. I figured the tan coating on the ice maker tray is corroding and flaking off. Ergo: when water filled the tray, there must be some parts where the ice forms in the tray that are corroded (ie; water touching metal now). The ice maker tray was heated up from its underside by its heating element. The ice is then lifted by the arms/tongues that flip them out of the tray. When the ice froze making the ice cubes, enough of them were touching bare metal and STUCK! They could not be flipped out by the pastic arm as it wasn't strong enough. So, ice maker tray needs to be replaced. This the part that has the heating element under it. Also, since the arms would have gotten stuck trying to flip out the ice, there must be a wheel or gear that turns the arm: Since it was plastic I figured the wheel or gear must also be plastic and may have gotten damaged. I looked to see how the ice maker is attached. Three screws for mine. I removed the screws and then the ice maker slowly. I then gently unplugged the wiring harness. I layed out the entire unit on magazine print on my table. I removed the ice cubes and saw a lot of corrosion. I took apart the unit. First the arm that wings up/down to tell the ice maker to make ice or not, then the arms, then the cover of the mechanism housing. I used a small slotted screwdriver to do this. I could see the copper that transfers electricity all inside and I followed it carefully to see if there was any spots where it was broken. None! ERGO I need a new ice maker tray. Since the heating element was glued on there pretty good, I figured I'd be buying the whole tray. Next 15 minutes: At this point, I cleaned up the freezer everywhere inside and the door. Next 20 minutes: I wrote dowm my model/serial number of frdige, took a picture of the label on the ice maker inside the mechanism housing and went online. I googled, "ice maker not making ice." You'll see what comes up. I called area appliance stores for the part and was told I have to order a whole new ice maker. And I have to wait one day and the part was $185 on average. I called Lowes & Home Depot. Three days! AND $225 (BOTH!). Next 20 minutes: Back online! Since I already experienced Appliance Parts Pros I went straight to them. But I also went to a website "RepairClinic" and entered my model/serial number & then chose the Ice Maker category. I saw all the parts of the ice maker and found I had to order the whole unit. It was $101!!! I watched a video that was available to click in replacing the unit. I went back to APP and did the same. They had better pictures. For the website "RepairClinic," I saw their delivery method was not directly to you. It was for Appliance Parts Pros. Appliance Parts Pros delivers directly to you! I ordered the unit on SUNDAY evening. TUESDAY afternoon the unit arrived! That evening I installed the unit. Next 1 hour: I opened the package and saw that I would have to re-use the shroud, metal arm, plastic arms, wiring harness and clip to hold the wires in place. The appliance stores didn't say anything about this! I re-assembled the ice maker with all parts attached to the new unit. I reinstalled the ice maker and turned on the water. OH YEAH! DON'T FORGET TO TURN OFF THE WATER TO THE ICE MAKER LINE AFTER YOU REMOVE THE ICE MAKER! We went and did some things and at about 930pm that night we were sitting in the kitchen and heard the proverbial ice cubes falling into the ice collection bin. SUCCESS!!! Calls for repairman to come out, after saying the ice maker isn't working, $240 to $300. Calls to Appliance stores to buy the ice maker unit, $185 average. 3 hours of my time and purchase of unit from Appliance Parts Pros (with shipping in TWO DAYS), $107. Did I have the time, perhaps. Kids enjoyed helping me and figuring out fwhat was wrong along with me..... Is this too long? Too bad! If you have similar problem, it's worth to you anywhere from $80 to $180 just to read and understand. RIF - Reading is Fundemental. Fix the problem with your kids around you and you can say it's a project you did with them interactively. And, they will know how to talk about how an ice maker makes ice!!! Good Luck to you all! It's easy, just make some time! Maytag 25cu Refrigerator/Freezer, bottom freezer, French doors. Purchased in 2006.

My whirlpool refrigerator Model # ID5GFGXRS00 was not making any ice so I did some research and the first step I did was replace the water filter it did not work I then replaced the water inlet valve waited 24hrs and still no ice was being made I then ordered the ice maker assembly, keep in mind that the metallic arm does not come with the new part, you will have to use the old one. Once the part came, I removed the 4 screws using my 1/4in wrench, a extender, and a 1/4 sae socket. I then opened the front cover (that faces the freezer door) used a flat head screw driver and removed the wiring harness from the ice maker assembly I put the old metallic icemaker arm onto the new assembly Now the this particular model has the wiring harness directly connected within the freezer wall liner, so instead of the using the new wiring harness that came with the new icemaker assembly I used the older wiring harness and connected it to the new icemaker assembly. There was no way I could remove the old one, I asked the techs on this site if I could use the old one and they said yes. Once the old harness was connected to the new assembly I screwed the 4 nuts from the assembly back onto the freezer and closed the freezer. I waited 24hrs and I opened the freezer and saw some ice cubes populate (not too many but some) 48hrs later more ice started to populate. Success! My advice would be to remove all the ice from the freezer before you start so you know if ice is actually being produced 24hrs after installation. I did not return my water inlet valve only because at some point it would of gone bad anyways so I saw it as future repair done now.

Kenmore model 106.74252402 fridge with icemaker. Believe it or not, this was fixed with only a 1/4" nutdriver. The parts fit exactly and took 10 minutes each to replace. The most surprising was the inlet valve. I didn't need to cut any tubing since the old valve had push-connectors like the replacement. It was identical. Simply pushed the fitting to remove old tubing and pushed into new part. Pull off plugs and push onto new part. 2 screws hold valve to fridge frame. Screw cardboard cover back into place. Simple, quick, and only one tool. The hardest part was manhandling the fridge out of and into its space. Saved lots of money! The icemaker was just as easy. Two screws loosened, 1 removed with nutdriver and new part slid into place of old. Push electrical connectors together. Installed wiring was identical to unit replaced. Re-tighten screws and worked instantly. My only wish was that APP offered a "max-ice" replacement model like my old one. Kenmore gas range model 362.75695891. Also fixed with only the 1/4" nutdriver. Broiler igniter had died. 2 screws held it to gas tubing vent. Easily accessible and no need to remove or loosen any other part. One screw held metal cover on back oven wall that partially covered passthrough hole for wiring. NOTE: keep the metal cover screw separate from the igniter screws. They are not interchangeable (machine vs. metal screws) even though they are both 1/4". Only slight hickup was that the igniter's electrical connector was female and so was the connector from the oven. Had to cut off both and use ceramic wirenuts which were supplied in replacement's box. Minor inconvenience. Another super-easy fix that saved money. Both repairs, and a previous clothes washer fix, brought new life and performance to appliances I had been using but not to their full potential. Wish I discovered this site sooner!

Replaced water valve to fix water not going to door, easy enough to do. Replaced icemaker which was corroded inside the cube-forming trays causing black flakes to come off stuck to the ice cubes, and was also leaking causing the water to drip into the ice bucket making one giant ice cube. Ten-minute job, which took an hour and a half. this is a 25-year-old unit and I only had access to the plug on the back of the icemaker, the other end was behind the rear wall. The wire was simply not long enough to easily get your screwdriver behind it to push the prong down and release the wire because the wire was just too short. I ended up removing the bracket that holds the icemaker to the wall which gave me another inch which was just enough to work with. The next problem was the old unit had a rear-facing hole for the water fill tube and the new one had a side-facing hole, it looked like it had grooves where you could snap off the back piece to push the fill tube through but I chose instead to take the old unit apart and remove the old filler receptacle piece and transfer it to the new unit. Simple to do no issues. Two hours later ice was heard dropping into the bucket, and water is working in the door. I also used the vacuum while I had the back open to clean up the twenty-five years of dust and dog hair that was all around everything, this should probably be done every year with pets in the house, but who thinks of this? The parts arrived quickly and with no issues. The only problem I have now is that my wife is mad because she wants a new refrigerator and was hoping that I could not fix this one.

This was not a straightforward repair - for that, it would have been easier. Did not use the wiring harness with the new icemaker - it's slightly shorter, harder to install. Not the issue. But what made it challenging had nothing to do with the new ice maker or parts - the fridge is a 90's vintage built-in KitchenAid. Documentation is scarce, and consider it immovable. When the last icemaker died, it did trickle water into the icemaker - and that comes in through an aluminum fill tube. So it froze, blocking the line. After fitting the new unit, it would cycle, but not fill. Time to look for the valve. - diagrams of the fridge show a valve, but no reallocation. Notes on the web are vague. - in a "normal" fridge, the valve would be lower back, with tubing running up the outside rear, and through. - fill tubing does connect to the fridge at the bottom - but no visible valve underneath.. - Oh - and while you can cycle the valve if no water is flowing, it doesn't make enough noise to be able to tell where it is. - It's actually on the top, outside, over the refrigerator section. If you have cabinets above it - good luck. Fortunately, with wood valence with light, the valve can be seen. Valve is ok, so back to the frozen line. Take the icemaker out, grab a towel, and blow dryer to heat up the aluminum fill tube. eventually, got some water out. Takes a while. Be very careful testing this - you have a 110V unit and free-flowing water very close. Best to reinstall icemaker and test. DO NOT jumper the plug - it's directly under the fill tube! Works -