Whirlpool 34001302 Washer Door Boot Seal OEM Part

Per google and this site, the symptoms of the machine were identical to what was described for a corroded / broken spider. I followed the instructions from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFXp2X99mQs and took apart my machine. It wasn't the exact model, but more than 90% of the instructions and parts were the same. If you've done any type of work on cars (changing brakes, oil change), you should be able to do this without any problems. You'll need a ratchet set, screw drivers, and some deep sockets for your ratchet. The hardest part was moving the machine (its heavy) to make space to work. Then getting the tub out and then back in (its the heavy part of the machine). Our machine was 7 years old and was really dirty inside from the mold and apparent usage of too much detergent. Originally we thought we only had to worry about mold on the gray rubber seal / gasket. But the tub was moldy too. For detergent, apparently, you should only use half of what is recommended. So, even if it recommends a full scoop for HE washers, use half of that. If you're using powder, make sure it dissolves well in water. Sometimes it only dissolves well in hot water. Other than the weight, disassembling and reassembling the machine was easy. We spent a good amount of time cleaning the machine, tub, and all hoses which I definitely recommend. Going forward, I will likely use affresh washer cleaner (sold everywhere) once a month, and also install a fan in the vent. There is a company that sells fans for front load washers, but it seems way over priced for what it is. I will likely use a USB computer fan. Also, wipe down the rubber gasket after every load, never leave clothes in the washer (try to take it out right away), leave the door open a bit, and finally, use a small self powered dehumidifier EVA-DRY at home depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eva-Dry-333-4-6-oz-Mini-Dehumidifier-E-333/202847328

First indication something was wrong when the washing drum starting to violently bang against the inside of the washer while in spin cycle. Then, when I opened the washer door, a misty smoke came from the inside. With the video from Appliance Parts Pros, disassembly of the washer was no problem. First, I replaced the four shocks on the washer drum. But, after a test run, determined that it was spider arm assembly. Again, the series of instructions made getting to the part fairly easy. The few things I would advise on is first that the 19mm nut in the back of the washer drum will be extremely difficult to take off. The video instructions say to use a small screwdriver to secure the drum from spinning in the back. But, unless you position the screwdriver exactly right, you run the risk of damaging the plastic housing of the motor. Second, once you replaced the assembly and have the whole thing put back together, run the machine on a rinse and spin cycle. There may be some residue or build up in the drum that may be washed away during the first cycle or two. Be prepared the drain the water pump after the first test run to manually clean out anything the pump cannot handle. When the cycle switches from rinse to spin, just watch the water level in the drum to see if the water is being pumped out. The washer will try to drain a few times. If the water level does not go down, drain the water pump and check for a clog. Other than that, just make sure to follow the sequence of events to disassemble and reassemble the washer.

To start my Maytag MAH8700AWW started making a thumping noise and was eating at the door boot seal. I started doing research and found some folks changed the shocks and springs but had no luck so I thought I would wait it out to see if it would get worse. Sure enough it started to get so loud I thought it was going through the wall. At this point I decided to tear into it. Come to find out the main shaft assembly had broken two out of the three arms that are the main supports for the inner drum. I believe the first thumping noise was when one broke. This was very hard to diagnose because their wasn't any noticeable play in the inner tub to determine if it was bearing related. It would just rotate a little unevenly when you would spin it. But when the second arm broke that's when it was evident that their was a major internal break. After purchasing parts which was the Shaft ($180.00) Door Boot ($109.00) Replaced outer drum seal as precaution ($30.00) and Six Flange Bolts that hold the shaft assembly to the tub ($50.00). Side note: After stripping the bolt heads after using a six point socket to try and get the bolts out I ended up having to cut the Shaft Assembly out with a angle grinder and a cutoff blade. You may be able to avoid this if you heat the bolts up to break the seal from the locktite that is used on them. Total cost of project was close to $400.00 with shipping. And not the easiest of jobs by yourself. I had to winch the tub up to get the springs off. This post is a little more in depth than anything I read going into my project so I hope this helps! GoodLuck!

Replaced broken drum spider and shaft assembly (part # AP4449265). Burning rubber smell was caused by spinning drum touches door boot seal. Also replaced all 4 shock absorbers just as a precaution. Replacing tub seal may not be absolutely necessary but it's cheap and easy. be aware of those razor sharp metal frames.

Watched u tube video followed instructions