Whirlpool 279311 Dryer Igniter Kit OEM Part

I used Fixya as an initial source describing my problem. I got two responses which were very helpful. One that the "coils" were probably the problem. Two, that the problem could be the thermostat or a thermistor in the dryer. I verified that AC was coming from the timing control, that both the two terminal and three terminal coils,the igniter and shut off thermostat all had continuity. I then applied AC directly to the coils: the two terminal coil ""clanked" and I interpreted that as the coil driving the gas valve plunger properly; the three terminal coil "buzzed" and I interpreted that as poor operation, and not driving the gas valve in or out properly. I ordered the coil kit, a ignitor kit, and a flame sensor as I considered these wear-out items and worth replacing to avoid future failure. When I installed the new coils, I was surprised that I got exactly the same response as the original coils. I figured the main gas valve assembly needed replacement. To my surprise, the dryer worked great with just the two new coils installed. The gas burner cycled on and off during the drying cycle, and my wife said that the dryer was working just like it was new. It apparently wasn't drying well for a while. Luckily, my dryer had a removable front panel, so I didn't have to remove the drum to replace the coils, as your video suggested. It was pretty hard to get the two screws off which mounted the two coils on the gas valve assembly, not much space to get a regular size P.H. screwdriver in, luckily I had a stubby, fat-handled screwdriver that allowed me to apply sufficient breaking torque to loosen the screws. I also cleaned out the accumulated 11 years of dirt and lint at the bottom of the dryer, and also cleaned the burner funnel carefully, and checked the outside dryer exhaust for leaks and lint, and there was virtually no lint. I was happy to see that you carried all authentic Whirlpool replacement parts. I also reported that the technician in your video on replacing the shut off thermostat mounted opposite the flame sensor on the burner funnel stated that the T-stat normally fails "shorted" which doesn't make sense, as that would cause the burner assy. to heat up and not shut the dryer off, which is its intended purpose.

I suspected the gas valve coils as I’ve replaced them before but this time it did not solve the problem. Luckily I ordered all five parts that are related to the heating function including the coils, thermal fuse, igniter kit, flame sensor, and finally the cycling thermostat. I figured while I had the dryer completely apart it’s probably a good idea to replace everything at once since one of the other parts may have failed shortly after. With all five new parts installed I gave her a test spin and she literally fired right up! I only had two challenges during the process, first, the dryer drum will not stay in position until you put the front panel back on so I used a bungee cord to keep it in place while I reattached the drive belt. Second, the one screw that holds the igniter bracket in place is in a bit of an awkward place, had to use a very small crescent wrench to get in there. Additional tips: Disconnect from the power outlet and turn off the gas valve behind the dryer, to open the top panel you can use a putty knife on the two front corners to release the clips or just give the top panel a nice tug forward at the rear left and right corner then simply pull the front of the panel up, change all parts while you’re in there, vacuum out all lint and debris, change the vent duct if bent or out of shape. The overall repair was actually pretty easy, I’d say give it a shot as a repair service could run a couple of hundred dollars and new dryers are getting pretty expensive these days. Good luck!

This old microwave was left with the home I purchased. It started with intermittent problems, the unit would count down on the screen, but no turntable or heat. Sometimes if I banged lightly on the door or shut the door harder, it would work. I've replaced a door microswitch before, so thought that may be the problem. I unplugged it and removed the top cover, and I could see the lower switch was burnt and some of the wire insulation was melted. I ordered the lower interlock switch from ApplicancePartsPros.co, switch was less than $6. It was the only switch they had for it. I did remove and take apart the center (monitor) switch, and it looked new. I did some research on these switches, and the lower one is more prone to fail due to the turntable and fan power all go through these tiny contacts on the lower switch. Also, a lot of people don't know that if you open the door without stopping the operation, you send power through those contacts on that switch while opening, and causes an arc. This is what pits the contacts. It's good to remember not to interrupt the cycle by opening the door, just hit 'stop' first. I received my new microswitch pretty quick, was a little struggle to get the new one back in as you have to try and move two plastic tabs to fit it in place. Also, the wire spade connections can be difficult to remove as someone said, there is a tiny spring clip on the underside of the spade that you can press with your thumb nail, then pull the connector off the switch. I found this out by accident. I also checked the door catch surfaces for wear, there was none. While I had the cover off, I also carefully cleaned the fan motor and blade and intake screen. Also, remember to discharge the capacitor before you start working on your unit. Just take an insulated screwdriver and put the tip across the two capacitor terminals. I work slow, too detail oriented, but it went well and I'm happy to have fixed the microwave myself. Wish I could add photos.

I looked at the part diagrams and watched the repair videos. Using google, I narrowed the cause down to a couple items. I purchased each of these items and followed the instructions from the video closely. After replacing the suspect parts and reassembled the dryer it works good as new. I'm guessing that I replaced 3 of the 4 parts weren't necessary, but that's ok. It still beats the cost and time savings of calling an appliance repair person.

I had to replace the Igniter kit.