Whirlpool WP25001119 Leg Assembly OEM Part

1.) Made sure BOTH Hot & Cold Water Lines turned off to Maytag Washer. (I have dual shut-off valve for those two water lines), 2.) Briefly ran Washer on Warm Water Setting, removing water pressure & remaining water from Hot & Cold water lines. 3.) Unplugged Washing Machine. 4.) Used Needle Nose Pliers to remove BOTH Hot & Cold Water hoses from the hookup on the back of the washer. 3.) Made sure I had an empty bucket, on hand, to catch remaining water that may come out of now-removed, hot & cold water lines, and catch any water from the washer drain hose, as I tilted the washer back against the wall to service the washer. 4.) Making enough room to work, I pulled the washing machine away from the wall, to be able to tilt the washer almost flat on the floor, making sure to not crush the drain hose still attached to the back of the washer. 5.) Used a flathead screwdriver to push under two tabs on the bottom of the front panel of the dishwasher, to allow the front panel to be lifted up. 6.) Lifted up the front panel of the washer, until the top panel was freed to be lifted upwards, to access inside the washer, from the top. 7.) Let the front panel set back down (without engaging bottom tabs again), and stand the washer back upright, with the top lid, left open, to access the inside. 8.) Moved the washer forward so that I had full access to get to the inside front and inside back of the washer, from the top. 9.) Located the Water Inlet Valve from the inside top, and I took the picture with my cellphone, so I could see the proper way to put it back into place, after removal. 10.) Used Masking Tape to put an "H" for "Hot" and a "C" for "Cold" on corresponding water valves, 11.) Used Socket Wrench to unscrew the Water Inlet Valve cover and took another cellphone picture to document the correct wire placement of wires now visually exposed. 12.) Used my fingers to remove wires from water inlet valve terminals. 13.) Used Socket Wrench to unscrew the Water Inlet Valve from the back of the Washer. 14.) Visually Compared old and new Water Inlet Valves and saw wire terminals on Old Valve were badly corroded & rusted. 15.) I reversed the above steps for the New Valve Installation: Used Socket Wrench to screw New Water Inlet Valve into place at the back of the Washer. 16.) Matching cellphone picture- used my fingers to attach wires to new water inlet valve wire terminals, tucking the wires back into place. 17.) Matching cellphone picture-Used Socket Wrench to screw Water Inlet Valve cover back into place. 18.) Matching the Proper "H" and "C", using Needle Nose Pliers, re-attached water lines to the back of the Washer. 19.) Turned on the Water Lines & plugged in the Washer. Tested OK. 20.) Snapped the top lid, back into place, and the front bottom tabs, back into place. Washer put back into normal working location.

I followed the Appliance Parts Pro's advice videos for the Maytag MAV6451AWW Atlantis washer on replacing the snubber ring and the suspension springs. Everything went just fine except replacing the two rear most suspension springs. None of the videos illustrated REINSTALLING the REAR springs which is extremely difficult because you can't get enough leverage with your arm extended. Observing my frustration, my wife recommended taking off the back side. You can't simply take off the back, because the right and left sides and the back are one piece. LESSON LEARNED: Follow the video to remove the front, then use duct tape to secure the lid to the left and right sides, and then remove ALL the screws around the base after removing the pump, motor and all hoses including the small water level sensing hose attached to the left rear of the tub. Make sure the motor wiring harness is unhitched from the base clip. Put on gloves because the edges are sharp, and then get your wife to help lift the remainder of the frame up and off the base. This makes removing the suspension springs and replacing them a piece of cake. Doing this originally would have saved hours of frustration.

Replaced snubber, one foot and springs. I bought a package of 1 inch #10 by 24 thread screws but 3/4 inch would probably have worked for temporarily holding the spring around the snubber under the tub pulley. The snubber was not worn through, but there was a lot of plastic dust around the pulley. I think the main problem was weak springs. Taking them off was a lot easier than putting the new ones on, especially the two on the back of the washer due to working at arms length. Vise grip pliers is a must have for that reason. So far all is well and the washer works great.

Replaced motor.

After looking on your site for the symptons, I decided to change the snubber ring (the original ring did not look all that worn but changed it anyhow), all 6 suspension springs and the 4 front/rear legs. The rubber pads were worn out almost completely on all 4 legs. The repair went smoothly except when trying to set the pin in one of the rear leveling legs. I didn't look at the installation video which I should have, but I was able to get the pin in securely. I made a slight adjustment to the left front foot pad to make sure the machine was completely level before operating it. Now when the machine is in spin mode it is as smooth and noise free as brand new. My wife did about 6 loads of laundry over the weekend and was quite happy. In conclusion, I'm not sure which part or all the parts changed that made the difference, it still beats spending $800+ for a new washer.