Whirlpool WPW10004260 Water Level Pressure Switch Hose OEM Part

Several months back, I checked the supply hoses and replaced the hot water hose because of corrosion. The cold water hose was fine. I replaced the water inlet valve and that seemed to fix the problem, but after about a week, the problem resurfaced. After searching various internet resources, I though the pressure switch which detects the water level could be bad. I order both the pressure switch and the hose that connects it to the air chamber. Before installing the new pressure switch, I compared the old and new with an ohm meter while applying different pressure levels and both behaved the same, so I was pretty sure that was not the problem. While I had the top still off, I ran a test cycle and noticed the water inlet valve was humming but no water was flowing into the tub. By pulling the connectors off the water inlet valve solenoids one by one, I determined it was the cold water side. So, I pulled the cold water supply line and found it was completed blocked. Again, that had been checked when the water inlet valve was replaced and it had plenty of flow. Anyway, after replacing the cold water supply line, the problem is solved. Since I had opened the packages on the new pressure switch and hose, I did not feel right attempting to return them. I plan to slice open the old cold water hose to see what's blocking it but have not done so yet. It is really blocked. I connected it to a garden hose outside and can't get any water through it in either direction.

Prior to ordering parts I had pulled the pump strainer basket and cleaned it out. There was both soft and hard scale build up. The tub-to-pump hose was also pretty crusty/slimey. Still got warnings for SUDS and repeated F02 errors. Ordered parts and replaced the pump, tub-to-pump hose, interior drain hose and exterior drain hose (both hoses has some slime build up). The water standing in the tub when I emptied it the first time had very little suds but we kept getting the SUDS warning. It's not clear how this is determined, but it looks like the pressure switch is involved. Suspected the pressure switch and/or sense line hose may be fouled so I replaced those as well. Replacement was pretty easy - GM/Ford should take lessons from Whirlpool on building things so they're easy to maintain! Your video on the pump replacement was spot on - it really was as easy as you said it was. Parts were delivered on the original order promise date and they were in good shape. The washer is back up and running again.

Bought the flow meter and the HOSE that goes from the meter to the back of the rear trap. This Hose had chafed. It had broke lose from its holder and as the drum agitated had rubbed against the drum. Order an Hose and Meter and take the back of the machine off. The hose may be bad. Replaced the hose. PROBLEM FIXED!!! YIPEE. took off the top to connect the hose to the meter.

I found some videos online that indicated it could be four possible problems. One possible fix was just cleaning out the filter in the bottom of the washing machine. I did that but it changed nothing. Then I found a video that shed some real light on the issue and it referred us to AppliancePartsPros.com. It indicated that it could be any of three parts gone bad. The parts were so inexpensive at AppliancePartsPros.com that we decided to buy all three parts at once to get it fixed quickly. The parts arrive quickly. They had installation videos associated with the parts on the website. I was able to get all three parts installed within a half an hour. And all three parts cost around $100. We are so happy that we found this website and was able to fix our washing machine so easily and inexpensively. I wish more people knew about this website and how easy it really can be to fix your own appliances. We replaced the water inlet valve, the water pressure sensor, and the pressure sensor hose.

I ordered the switch, flow meter and hose. Replaced switch and hose in 30 minutes. Didn’t replace flow meter still good, original look sturdier then new one. While at it I cleaned the pump filter (in front bottom) and the reservoir connecting the hose. Both were dirty with gunk. The debris junk in the reservoir probably caused the switch to fail. Removed reservoir, has one screw and an o-ring attached to the main washer. After cleaning the reservoir I used a white lithium grease around the o-ring and the inlet to make a tight seal. Cleaned everything with a cloth and I used long q-tips to remove the gunk inside the reservoir. Also removed the liquid container for detergent and cleaned them. Took probably 1 hr to do all these knowing it's free of gunk and dirt that will not cause a failure in the future These vertical washers are easier for DIY jobs