Whirlpool WP3355806 Lid Switch Kit OEM Part

First dis-connect the machine from the mains electricity. To replace the timer remove all knobs except washing machine main knob; do not attempt to remove the main washing control knob yet or you'll break it. Remove the two screws and profile plate each side and beneath the control panel then, holding the control panel, remove two bolts at bottom of dryer door then lift dryer door then tip the console plate towards you - it will remain in place, hooked on machine casing. Grasp the main washing cotrol knob then depress the black locking mechanism at the rear of the timer and the main washing control knob will come free. There are instructions for removing/replacing the main washer control knob on the rear of the timer unit p/n AP2947146. Re-assemble as you removed the control panel. To be sure I also replaced the lid switch p/n 3355806 - to do so is easy! First, remove the two screws at the top of the inclined plate beneath the dryer and set to one side. Detach the dryer exhaust hose. Next, remove the two bolts holding down the rear of the washing machine lid - pull the lid free and release the earth terminal from the body of the machine then remove the lid and replace the switch, re-attach the new earthing terminal. Re-attch the lid with the two bolts. Before replacing the inclined plate make sure to push the machine back to the wall, re-attach the dryer exhaust hose, then screw back on the inclined plate. Plug the machine in again and run - our machine now functions perfectly and nowhere could I find a blog as to how to achieve the above replacement - I hope it helps you!

Used you tube to find video on process and then adjusted to fit my needs.

Fixing the problem was quite simple. First, I removed the lid assembly (thanks to the diagrams supplied by AppliancePartsPros.com!). Getting the back two screws out was very difficult because I couldn't see them from the front and I could not move the unit out of the enclosed space. After some trial and error, I located the screws which were 5/16 hex head screws and removed them with a MAGNETIC nut driver. (The magnet assures that the screw will not drop down into the mechanism). Second, I unplugged the switch from the harness connector, inscribed the switch, and unscrewed the ground wire. Third, I removed the old rusted clips from the assembly and the switch came right out. Repacing with the supplied new switch was just the opposite of the above removal process.

First I thought it may be the timer since it wasn't advancing to the next cycle, but after trying that it didn't seem to have any affect. Then I took the front cover of the wash machine off. This was a bit tricky...You have to pry the top piece forward past the bottom cover to get past the plastic pins. Then there are two screws holding the front plate in place. After removing them you can lift the cover off and get to the inside of the machine. Once I was able to see inside the washing machine I noticed the switch looked a little weak. I then pushed up on the switch and the washer went to the next cycle (I don't recommend having this hooked up to the power, should be able to tell that lid switch is bad without digging this deep). Ultimately I replaced the switch and got it working again.

Ordered and re-place switch and (3) three shocks basically gutting the motor and tub assembly out and reassembling with the detailed instructions sent with new parts