Whirlpool WP40004201P Main Bearing Assembly (Washer) OEM Part

I decided to repair my Amana LWA50AW top loader washer because it has served us well, it is made by Speed Queen and an equal replacement is expensive. These are very dependable washers. The parts I ordered were: part #R9900552 (hub and seal kit) This kit does not include the Tub or Main bearing!!! Nor the drive belt!!! The main bearing is what is attacked by the water due to leaks and makes a jet engine sound as the tub spins faster and faster. Any way, the kit should be updated to include these items. My machine worked great besides the leak and noise. The repair is fairly simple as it is just disassembly and reassembly. A person with no DIU experience, might find this repair difficult but anyone with fair DIU experience should have no issues. No specialty tools are required but a large pulley puller and a pipe wrench or large udjustable wrench are needed and available at most auto parts stores, hardware stores and cheaper yet, at Harbor Freight. Do your research. Look at videos on YouTube specifically search "Speed Queen Transmission". This should give you a good idea. The pulley puller will be needed to remove the Drive Bell and the large wrench for the large nut. A hammer will be usefull if not needed here. I also used Permatex Ultra black gasket maker to seal the surface between the tub and the Seal. Don't worry, it will all make sense as you are taking it apart. When you do so, male sure to take pics and keep track of how things go back together. The tub is balanced by 6 springs. Those are tough to remove. I found it easier to remove the entire outer shell! It is very easy to do, held only by screws at the bottoms. then use a large wrench and pull them up and away from the tub. Same to put back on. Don't forget: unplug the washer, shut off water supply, remove front Panel, remove entire top with lid (2 screws at each front corner, that's it) then remove the two pipes from the water pump. When you have removed all the parts from inside the tub, flip it upside down now you will have easy acces to the motor, transmission. The pump must come off for the belt to go on. Allow the sealant you used to dry overnight before starting a load. Hope this helped someone! Good luck!

I replaced the main bearing on my Amana washing machine but it was a total nightmare. The repair video was priceless as I never would have even tried to fix it myself without it. I couldn't remove the agitator or the drive bell cap but I had a helper with muscle who removed both. It saved me from buying removal tools. I broke off the four bolts holding the inner tub to the hub. I tried cleaning the four extra holes in the hub with Q tips and cleaner but broke off two bolts reinstalling new bolts so I took the hub to a machine shop and they drilled out the two bolts and tapped the holes again. I installed a new spline insert as recommended by the manufacturer with the fingers up after installing the 11/4 inch nut but the drive bell upper seal could not be pressed down over the top of the fingers so we put the spline on the shaft with the fingers up and then put the 11/4 nut on over the spline with the nut inverted (flat side up) so the base of the spline would fit in the inside hollowed part of the nut. This is the way it was done on another video even though it comes from the factory with the spline put on the shaft after the nut. Now we were able to get the drive bell seal over the spline but we were unable to press it down further then 3/16 inch from the base lip so I ordered the installation tool 293p4 and we still couldn't get it down any further hammering it with a block of wood. I guess it is not supposed to go down more than 3/16 inch from the base lip so that is how we left it. If I were to do this alone I don't think I could have gotten the drive bell seal on at all as my helper pressed it on with all the strength he could muster and he is much stronger than I.

All the talk of a loud washer sounding like a jet taking off in the laundry room, well this is the fix. Kind of a complicated repair but just follow the instructions and you'll breeze right through it. Figure if you're about to tear into a washing machine and DIY you got this handled. Get the washer to a wide open room, I used the garage, and take the whole thing apart. Don't try to fix it with the side panels attached, it will be a pain in the butt. There are a few special tools needed but if you're clever you can work around that. A deep 1 1/2" socket and driver will come in real handy, otherwise you'll need a special tool to remove the main nut holding the whole project together. Make sure you get the hub and seal kit along with the bearing because you'll need it. Had mine torn apart and put back together in a little over three hours, but there were a few adult beverages involved to make things go smoother

Replace bearing. This was a veryy involved job since I had to disassemble the entire washing machine. Since previously I purchased a seal kit, it came in handy for this repair.Machine is much quieter now.

The unit I have was slightly different than video, however some of the tips in the video was very helpful. Front panels and top of washer were fastened with screws instead of clips. Once unit opened up, removed motor and belt, disconnect wire harness. Removed top ring on drum, removed the top dispenser on the agitator to expose the retaining cap screw, removed. grasped agitator and pulled up to remove. Top spline unit with seal, removed by turning counter-clockwise, therefore exposing the center locknut holding the drum plate to the shaft. Used a flat punch with small hammer to tap the L-shaped edges of the nut CCW to loosen. Removed the drum springs, then the counterbalance spring in the back, removed drum and base. set drum and base between 2- 5 gallon pails, removed the 6 bolts that hold the base to the drum base, took block of wood and hammer, tapped the shaft down till it released. Turned the drum over and removed old bearing, cleaned everything up, installed new bearing, began reassembly. Once I cleaned and inspected all the seals, I used faucet grease to lubricate everything, therefore minimizing any chance of damaging seals. Tip, before removing base from drum plate, take a marker or crayon to mark one leg for alignment, therefore you will be sure that the motor mounting holes will be lined up in the correct location in relation to drain. Reassembled washer, put back into service, works great.