Whirlpool 349241T Dryer Rear Drum Support Roller Kit OEM Part

I am very glad to find the AppliancePartsPros.com website! Their instructional videos and easy parts reference made all the difference. I had originally planned to have someone come to fix my dryer, but no one was available for at least a week. I checked out their site, and after watching the videos I felt confident I could repair my appliance. I determined that a drum roller wheel had gone bad. Apparently it was going bad over the last five years since the dryer always seemed to rattle a little. It had recently gotten much worse. It was the bearing and also the rubber part of the roller was deformed. To be safe I replaced both drum rollers, belt, and belt tensioner. All for around $60 which included overnight shipping. I referenced the videos, and was easily able to replace all of the parts. The dryer runs perfectly now, it is super quiet and runs as good as new, better than I remember it from five years I have owned it. And this is a 25+ year old Kenmore dryer! A testament to quality American manufacturing. My tips from my repair job: -Even though you do not have to take the back panel off to make these repairs, I highly recommend it to remove lint build-up, especially if it is an older appliance. -When I had finished repairs and re-installed the drum, it felt like it would fall out unless I supported it with my hand, which made it hard to fit in the front panel. But it turns out as long as you have everything re-assembled and the belt in place, the drum will support itself and just "lean" forward. You just have to make sure it fits in and the gliders are lined up with the front panel once you fit it back in. -Lastly as it is humorously but necessarily stated all over the machine, make sure to unplug it before working on it! I am also glad I repaired it myself, because there was an extensive lint buildup from years of operation all over everything. I was able to take my time and clean everything out very good, and under the dryer on the floor as well. If it was a repair person I'm sure I would not have been able to take the time to clean it (or face paying the technician to clean it). I feel like I have greatly reduced any risk of fire and also restored the dryer to a great condition. I highly recommend AppliancePartsPros.com for all of your appliance repair needs. 100% Satisfied! Thank you!

Unplug the machine. Remove the lint screen,which exposes two screws underneath it. Remove these two screws, then insert a large, flat blade screwdriver between the dryer top and its sides (toward the front of the machine) to pop the top free. Once top is popped free, pivot it upward and rest it against the back wall. Disconnect the door switch, then remove the 2 screws (one each side) that hold the front panel assembly to the cabinet sides at the top. Before removing the front panel assembly though, lift it an inch or so to unhook it from the clips at the bottom - otherwise you might break a clip! Once the front panel is removed, suggest you take a picture showing how the belt is wrapped around the idler pulley (so you know how it threads back on when you're ready to reassemble), then pull on the idler pulley to get slack in the belt and remove the belt from it. Lift the drum and belt up and out, then remove the triangle clips and old rollers. Clean everything well, then consider using no more than 1 drop of light oil like 3-in-1 on the drum roller axle (don't use more than a drop, you'll attract dirt, and don't use grease). Install the rear triangle clips onto the axles, the new drum rollers, then the front triangle clips (my dryer does not use the retaining washer part that came with the replacement kit). Reinstall the drum and thread the belt onto the idler pulley, referring to the picture you took prior to disassembly if you need to. Lower the front panel assembly to hook it onto the retaining clips at the bottom, then attach it at the top with the two screws. Hook up the door switch, lower the top and pop into place, reinstall the two screws behind the lint screen, and shove in the ling screen. Plug it in and you're good to go.

I would have never attempted to repair my own dryer if it had not been for a video I found on how to do it for my particular model. Following the video, I was able to disassemble the dryer and diagnose the problem, and remove the old heating element. While I had the dryer apart, I noticed a roller drum support that was worn out and was causing the noise that my dryer had been making for years. I also decided at this time it might be best to inspect the drum drive belt while I had it all apart. I found it was worn and cracked and would be just a matter of time before I had to replace it too. So I found all the parts I needed at Appliance Parts Pros and ordered them. They had the best price of anyone that I found too. In the meantime, I cleaned out 21 yrs of lint build up inside the dryer while I had it all opened up. The parts arrived in two days time which I thought was amazing. Took me less than an hour to install them and button up the dryer. For all I did to the dryer, I am certain it would have cost me near what a new dryer of the same type would have cost me and now I have a great running dryer again all for less than 90 bucks. I used your videos once before to repair my washer, so I knew I could count on Appliance Parts Pros to do the same for my dryer. I will be using you more in the future as I am not interested in these new washing machines that think for themselves and cause more problems then they are worth. I will just continue to repair my old machines until I either cant get parts anymore or it is just not cost effective to repair. If you are able to use a screwdriver and wrench, you can make most of these repairs yourself and save a ton of money, thanks to the video instructions that Appliance Parts Pros provide.

I have a 1982 manufactured Whirlpool Imperial Seventy gas dryer. I have respect for any appliance that has lasted 35 years and will sooner repair it if possible than buy a new one that may not last three years. One of the roller bearings the drum rides on appeared to have gotten tight over time to the point where it must have overloaded the main motor until it finally burned out. I ended up replacing both roller bearings, the drive belt, and the main motor. The most complex part was the main motor, since it does not have a simple harness connection as with newer dryers, but individual connections to terminals on the motor switch. Also, the thermal overload switch on modern dryers is jumpered to a spare terminal on the motor switch so it can be connected to the dryer wiring as part of the harness; in older dryers, it is a separate connection. By keeping track of where the wires went (the terminals on both the old and new motor are numbered), and using some helpful instructions I found in a repair forum, I was able to complete the repair successfully. Another thing to keep in mind - the shaft of the motor is connected to the blower wheel at the back end. Use an adjustable wrench to hold the blower wheel in place and a 7/16" wrench to rotate the motor shaft clockwise at the front (pulley) end to unthread the wheel. Since the blower wheel is made of plastic, you need to be careful not to use something that has a rough surface to avoid stripping it. The dryer now runs smoothly, and while I don't anticipate that this new motor will last 35 years, it will be worth my time if it lasts five. The parts I ordered from Appliance Parts Pros were sent promptly. I paid for two day shipping and they arrived in one. I would order from them again.

Originally the dryer was squeaking a lot, so I purchased a new belt tensioner, but the original tensioner was an old-style no wheel tensioner, so that wasn't the source of the squeaking. I saw a lot of lint had built up inside the unit where there shouldn't have been that much. So I viewed a few videos on the Appliance Pros site and saw that the rear wheel guides were the cause of the squeaking and the rear felt drum and blower housing seal needed to be replaced. The rear blower housing was very easy (watch video), the new felt drum seal was another story. I saw a post where someone said they used clamps to hold the felt in place due to the fact that the felt needs to be stretched. I dry fitted the felt with clamps and saw just how tight it was. I removed the felt and applied the adhesive as shown in the video. The problem is you need to work fast so I had a little trouble with the last 12-18 inches since I was clamping sections so it wouldn't pull off as I stretched the felt into place. If I was to do it again I would not apply the adhesive to the last 12-18 inches until I got the felt in place and clamped, then apply adhesive to last section and stretch the felt in place. The adhesive sets up pretty quick. The replacement of the tensioner, rear roller guides, drum belt and light bulb were just as shown in the videos. If it wasn't for the Appliance Pros site I would have went out and purchased a new dryer. So for a little less the $100 the dryer is running like new and clothes are dry at the end of all runs so far.