Whirlpool 341241 Dryer Drum Belt 92-1/4" 4-Rib OEM Part

Unpluged dryer first. Then took the lint filter out and removed the two philips screws inside the lint filter lid. Then take a paint scraper just under the top of the dryer two inches from the left front corner and pushed in a little to release the snap connector and did the same on the right side. Then lifted top over. Then take a 5/16 socket or nut driver and remove the two screws on on the left inside panel, then the right side. Lean front out a little and remove the two wires one the back side of front panel for the door safty switch. (note make sure to write down which wire was on each side).Then lift up on front panel and remove front. Grab the drum and remove. Then clean all the stuff that will be on the bottom inside of dryer and if your lucky there will be a pocket full of change and other items from your pockets. I used a vac hose to suck around motor and to pick up lint. Then slip belt over drum rib side down on the wear mark on drum, put drum back in place. If you have help have them hold the drum in place or prop up front bottom with what ever you can find. Reach under the drum near the front of the motor and put the the pulley back in the slot where it goes it only goes in one way. Make a small loop and slip the belt under the plastic pully wheel and slip the belt over the motor pulley(note you will have to pull the belt with sum force to pull the tension pulley back enough to reach motor pulley with the belt).Take a deep breath your done with repair. Reassemble dryer in reverse order, plug back in and test. I have done it before it took me about twenty minutes, after cleaning should only take about an hour or less.

I am very glad to find the AppliancePartsPros.com website! Their instructional videos and easy parts reference made all the difference. I had originally planned to have someone come to fix my dryer, but no one was available for at least a week. I checked out their site, and after watching the videos I felt confident I could repair my appliance. I determined that a drum roller wheel had gone bad. Apparently it was going bad over the last five years since the dryer always seemed to rattle a little. It had recently gotten much worse. It was the bearing and also the rubber part of the roller was deformed. To be safe I replaced both drum rollers, belt, and belt tensioner. All for around $60 which included overnight shipping. I referenced the videos, and was easily able to replace all of the parts. The dryer runs perfectly now, it is super quiet and runs as good as new, better than I remember it from five years I have owned it. And this is a 25+ year old Kenmore dryer! A testament to quality American manufacturing. My tips from my repair job: -Even though you do not have to take the back panel off to make these repairs, I highly recommend it to remove lint build-up, especially if it is an older appliance. -When I had finished repairs and re-installed the drum, it felt like it would fall out unless I supported it with my hand, which made it hard to fit in the front panel. But it turns out as long as you have everything re-assembled and the belt in place, the drum will support itself and just "lean" forward. You just have to make sure it fits in and the gliders are lined up with the front panel once you fit it back in. -Lastly as it is humorously but necessarily stated all over the machine, make sure to unplug it before working on it! I am also glad I repaired it myself, because there was an extensive lint buildup from years of operation all over everything. I was able to take my time and clean everything out very good, and under the dryer on the floor as well. If it was a repair person I'm sure I would not have been able to take the time to clean it (or face paying the technician to clean it). I feel like I have greatly reduced any risk of fire and also restored the dryer to a great condition. I highly recommend AppliancePartsPros.com for all of your appliance repair needs. 100% Satisfied! Thank you!

Our 19 year old Whirlpool dryer quit heating. After checking the thermal fuse, I found the ignitor electrically open. I bought an ignitor at a local store as there was a national holiday the next day and I did not want the dryer inoperative waiting several days for shipping. I can say AppliancePartsPros is MUCH cheaper for the identical Whirlpool genuine part. While changing the ignitor, I noticed there was an excessive amount of lint in the dryer, which was caused by worn drum seals. I ordered drum seals, a new drive belt, the foam seals for the exhaust duct and new nylon drum bearing set. These were delivered promptly, but unfortunately the 2-piece nylon drum bearing set had only 1 piece. I went on line, used the chat function and was promptly taken care of. The new part arrived fairly quickly, was correct and I installed it. The most difficult part of the project was the rear drum seal which must be glued to the drum. I removed the old seal and sanded off the dried glue. I then set the drum up on a work table, blocked from rolling off with 2x4s, so I could rotate it in place. The new seal needs to be stretched to make it around the drum circumference, so I used small wood clamps to hold it in place around the drum. I then pushed back the fabric, applied a small bead of glue to the drum surface, gave it about a minute to air dry, then repositioned the seal. I worked my way around the drum, rotating it on my work table. The seal installed nicely. Pay attention when you position the drum during final assembly so that the rear support rollers are in place and the seal correctly circles the stationary back wall for the drum. You can check the seal for folding bouth outside and inside. 2 people are advised for this step. One last note, the installation of the drive belt is little tricky, so photograph the belt path through the tensioner and motor drive pulley before you remove the old belt.

I watched the video at your website. I unplugged the electric first. When I opened up the machine up, It was loaded with lint.I found the source was a hole in the vent tube outside the machine. I fixed that first . The lint had been sucked back into the machine. The first half hour was spent vacuuming out all the lint and then I could proceeded with the motor change. I followed the video exactly. I removed the screws at the two front corners, after lifting the top and controls and tying it to cabinet handles above, to keep it out of the way. I took the screws out of the vent blower cover and removed the retaining rings. First one on the front end of the motor shaft, then the large one around the center. After pulling the fan off I removed the other retaining ring. I had some trouble getting my arm inside the machine to disengage the Idler pulley. (Too many sharp braces and too small an area for my arm. But finally got my shoulder under the front of the inside drum and got it disengaged. Lifting the drum out and putting it aside and cleaning the massive amount of lint, then removing the retainer clamp near the pulley end of the motor and putting all the little screws and parts in a plastic bowl to keep them intact and safe. Lifting up and twisting the whole motor, disengaged it and I put it aside. My dryer motor was exactly the same as the new one so no adaptation was necessary. I put the new motor into place the same way I removed the old one. I reassembled the retaining clamp near the pulley end.Then it was just removing the old belt and putting the new belt into place and lifting the drum, setting the whole thing into place and had the same problem getting my arm under the drum to re engage the idler pulley, but finally got it done. I reassembled the blower fan and put all the clamps and retaining rings back on. I reassembled the blower front cover and finally, I put the front of the dryer back onto the lower pegs and put the two screws back in the front corners. I put the top down and snapped it into place. I replugged it into the electric receptacle and started it up and let it run long enough to know the fix had worked.

I have a 1982 manufactured Whirlpool Imperial Seventy gas dryer. I have respect for any appliance that has lasted 35 years and will sooner repair it if possible than buy a new one that may not last three years. One of the roller bearings the drum rides on appeared to have gotten tight over time to the point where it must have overloaded the main motor until it finally burned out. I ended up replacing both roller bearings, the drive belt, and the main motor. The most complex part was the main motor, since it does not have a simple harness connection as with newer dryers, but individual connections to terminals on the motor switch. Also, the thermal overload switch on modern dryers is jumpered to a spare terminal on the motor switch so it can be connected to the dryer wiring as part of the harness; in older dryers, it is a separate connection. By keeping track of where the wires went (the terminals on both the old and new motor are numbered), and using some helpful instructions I found in a repair forum, I was able to complete the repair successfully. Another thing to keep in mind - the shaft of the motor is connected to the blower wheel at the back end. Use an adjustable wrench to hold the blower wheel in place and a 7/16" wrench to rotate the motor shaft clockwise at the front (pulley) end to unthread the wheel. Since the blower wheel is made of plastic, you need to be careful not to use something that has a rough surface to avoid stripping it. The dryer now runs smoothly, and while I don't anticipate that this new motor will last 35 years, it will be worth my time if it lasts five. The parts I ordered from Appliance Parts Pros were sent promptly. I paid for two day shipping and they arrived in one. I would order from them again.