Whirlpool W11417622 Washer Water Level Pressure Switch OEM Part

Several months back, I checked the supply hoses and replaced the hot water hose because of corrosion. The cold water hose was fine. I replaced the water inlet valve and that seemed to fix the problem, but after about a week, the problem resurfaced. After searching various internet resources, I though the pressure switch which detects the water level could be bad. I order both the pressure switch and the hose that connects it to the air chamber. Before installing the new pressure switch, I compared the old and new with an ohm meter while applying different pressure levels and both behaved the same, so I was pretty sure that was not the problem. While I had the top still off, I ran a test cycle and noticed the water inlet valve was humming but no water was flowing into the tub. By pulling the connectors off the water inlet valve solenoids one by one, I determined it was the cold water side. So, I pulled the cold water supply line and found it was completed blocked. Again, that had been checked when the water inlet valve was replaced and it had plenty of flow. Anyway, after replacing the cold water supply line, the problem is solved. Since I had opened the packages on the new pressure switch and hose, I did not feel right attempting to return them. I plan to slice open the old cold water hose to see what's blocking it but have not done so yet. It is really blocked. I connected it to a garden hose outside and can't get any water through it in either direction.

First I attempted to reset the computer by taking off the top and unplugging components from the control panel. When I plugged everything back, the washer started to work then showed code 32 and unlocked the door. I was unable to take out the clothes. Went online to research code 32 to find out if others who had experienced this code were able to repair the problem. Found a very detailed explanation concerning the pressure switch, and how to test it to see if it was working properly. After performing all the tests, I discovered that the switch was bad. When the new switch came in, I installed it, made sure that all wires were connected, and started a test run. My washer runs like new. Saved myself about $200, maybe even more. I am so proud of my DIY repair.

Replaced the pressure switch.

I first removed the old one by turning it 90° which enable it to snap out from the frame. Disconnected the hose and wiring harness. It was a very simple matter of reversing these steps to get the new one in place.