Whirlpool 279769 Thermal Cut-Off Kit OEM Part

Since the dryer was 24 years old I opted to replace all the possible problem components, instead of just the bad one. The parts aren't that expensive and do to their age I figured it was worth it to avoid having to go back into the dryer in a few months. The repair was surprisingly easy and went pretty much as the video instruction AppliancePartPros provided with one exception. Because, my model was much older than that used in the video, I had a more difficult time replacing the Heating element. The older model has a different layout of the rear access panel. The top of the heating element box was concealed by another panel preventing access to the screw and bracket holding it in. For me, the easiest way get to it was by removing the dryer top panel. This is still easy... you remove the two screws under the Lint trap door and release the two clips holding down the front. You also have video on how to do this. The whole top can be lifted up. It is hinged at the back, giving you easy access to the top of the Heater Box, screw and bracket. Remove wires from the thermal cut of components and the heating element, remove the screw on the back of the box that holds the heating element in. the element box. Remove old element, install new element and lock in place with screw. Replace the parts of the thermal cut off kit, then replace the heater box re-attaching the bracket at the top. Close the dryer to Top Panel. Re attach the wire for the top thermal cut off, bottom thermal cut off, and the heating element... get the right wire on the right component, but wiring order doesn't matter. The Dryer cycling element is all that's is left, and goes exactly as in the video, The wiring order does matter on this one. I advise removing the old on with wires still attached. Put the new one in being careful to give it the same alignment, and then move the wires one a time from the old component to the new. Replace the Back panel and you are done. I used an electric screw and nut driver. and the whole Job took a about 45 minutes and I really took my sweet time. Wear gloves!

I first removed the back cover to examine the unit. Looking for blockage in the dryer ventilation system. then on to looking for burnt components or loose connections, burnt or frayed wires,anything of the sort. Even with the power reconnected i couldn't find anything out of the ordinary. Except that machine was getting proper air flow and the heating element was not getting hot like it should.When i reached a dead end I googled the problem thinking it was the heating element. I had people telling me that part usually goes out. With the power disconnected again i put an ohm meter to all the terminals. On the temp.sensors, the element and the thermostat.One of the sensors would not read anything.(Thermal cut-off switch) So i looked up the part using my model number then matched it with other distributors. Looking for the better deal, including time and shipping fees. I found that most places also sold the switches in pairs. (1 high temp and 1 low temp). I figured this would be actually the better deal. if one went bad it was possible the other was also soon to follow, considering the appliance was over 10 years old. With normal shipping, in a couple days i received the part. With the cover already off the instillation of both thermostats only took 10 minutes. The only headache to this was cleaning behind and under the dryer after it had not been moved in over 10 years!!! ***I am a home repair specialist with over 30 years experience. Pretty much if its a part of the home,inside or out, I can fix it, repair it or build it. Though i have been putting things together that people have taken apart and dont know what to do with, since i was a teenager. This jub was easy enough anyone who can follow simple diagnostic (just Googling instructions). Anyone could do this. This job was hitting the That Was Easy button. In my past I have replaced a water inlet valve and motor on a dishwasher, a water drain pump on a clothes washer. an that's about it. But because this was so easy I am adding such appliances to my jobs list. I am also very pleased with the service of Appliance Parts Pros.

After turning off the breaker and then unplugging it, I opened the rear panel and reviewed the wiring diagram on the back of the control panel. (thank you Daddy for showing this girl how to read a circuit diagram!) Ohmed all parts along the heating system circuit and all were 0 ohms as they should be, except the heating coil which was infinity. Removed the coil and found it had snapped at one point near the middle. Performed a temporary fix by clearing the charred section of the coil and twisting the two ends together, tightening and cleaning until I got 10.6 ohms across the terminals for the coil. (should be 11.08 ohms per the specs) That got it working in the short term. (enough to at least dry the load that was already wet) Came here since I had such a great experience when my washing machine died a few years ago and the videos and comments here made diagnosing that issue a breeze! Found my model dryer and looked up other people's experiences with this dryer. With their comments in mind, I not only ordered a new heating coil, (plus a spare against future failure) but a new Cycling Thermostat, Thermal Cut-Off Kit, and Thermal Fuse... which accounts for the parts that are nearly 80% of failures of the heating system of this dryer model. Once the parts arrived, (super fast shipping... they were here in two days!) I spent an hour replacing all the parts with my new ones and vacuuming out the interior. I saved the old parts (except the temp-fixed coil) for future use should any of the new parts fail, since they were known good working parts when I took them out.

PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT or It's Always Fun 'til You Set the House on Fire: Recently, my dryer stopped working. I don't use it much for three seasons of the year, preferring to hang clothes outside to dry, but with winter coming, this is not a highly desirable option. I replaced the "push to start" switch and the thermal fuse and got it working again, only to have it heat up to near super-nova temperatures before the thermal fuse did its job, melting & stopping the dryer. I then replaced the thermal fuse and thermal cut-off thermostat and the hi-limit thermostat inside the back of the dryer. Fingers crossed--it seems to be working now. BUT WHAT CAUSED ALL THIS BOTHER? Closer investigation between Fix #1 and Fix #2 revealed a dryer sheet melted to the air vent inside the dryer's drum. I suspect a large load pushed this little booger up against the drum's interior vent, radically restricting air flow and causing the dryer to overheat. There was sticky residue on the air vent -- likely caused by years of accumulation of soap particles or dryer sheet chemicals -- and this sticky residue probably helped the dryer sheet adhere where it became an absolute danger and house-fire risk. I washed/scrubbed the residue off the air vent inside the drum. I also have now completely sworn off dryer sheets, ordering instead a set of Whitmor Dryer Balls which--if the hype is to be believed--will also speed drying time by keeping the clothes from glomming up. The alarming thing (and the reason I'm sharing) is apparently dryer sheets are known to do this. Please do yourself a favor and clean the air vent inside your dryer with a soft rag and mild detergent from time to time. And seriously consider ditching those chemical-laden dryer sheets! PS: I will say that the video that accompanies the "Thermal Cut-Off" kit was the first AppliancePartsPros.com video that disappointed me. My kit came with two pieces and the video only shows how to deal with one of 'em. I did figure it out, but it added about 15 minutes to the repair and I was nervous. :)

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